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Old 12-10-2012, 12:49 PM   #11 (permalink)
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You do have an ignition and a key right? I ask because there is a resistor in the stock ignition switch that lets the ecu know the bike is being started with a key and not being hot wired.

stock key/ignition haven't been touched. Is there something else that has a similar load/resistance effect that would cause no spark and fuel pump circuit not to turn on?
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:20 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ninjer636 View Post
stock key/ignition haven't been touched. Is there something else that has a similar load/resistance effect that would cause no spark and fuel pump circuit not to turn on?
If the resistor in the ignition switch has failed you would have the same symptoms.

I don't recall the color of the wire or the voltage, but one of the wires coming from the ignition switch should be a lower voltage then the rest. The resistor in the ignition switch lowers the voltage to the signal wire going to the ecu.

I think it's around 7 volts but that's a total guess.
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Old 12-12-2012, 01:31 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If the resistor in the ignition switch has failed you would have the same symptoms.

I don't recall the color of the wire or the voltage, but one of the wires coming from the ignition switch should be a lower voltage then the rest. The resistor in the ignition switch lowers the voltage to the signal wire going to the ecu.

I think it's around 7 volts but that's a total guess.
Copy,

I will check it out this week/weekend

thanks!
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:02 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Old man Roger's response sounds logical to me, but I really don't know about that particular problem.

You mentioned jumping the relay on the fuel pump circuit, and the pump just ran. Thats what is supposed to happen, so my feeble little brain says that, that particular relay is bad.
If the relay controls the prime, than you have skipped that and went straight to running normally like when the bike is on. Just a thought. Even though you said you have replaced the relays.
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:14 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Old man Roger's response sounds logical to me, but I really don't know about that particular problem.

You mentioned jumping the relay on the fuel pump circuit, and the pump just ran. Thats what is supposed to happen, so my feeble little brain says that, that particular relay is bad.
If the relay controls the prime, than you have skipped that and went straight to running normally like when the bike is on. Just a thought. Even though you said you have replaced the relays.
The power is always ava with key on to the fuel pump via red wire, but I never thought to check it with the key off (will do tonight). the yellow/red wire at the fuel pump connects to red/white (and has good con straight to fuel pump relay, 0.1 ohms resistance from pump to relay) and if I jump it (bypass the relay) it works but not proper, just runs and never shuts off like it normally should.

Im going to check the ignition switch out tonight like roger suggested.

something is causing the fuel pump to not receive voltage from the relay. I believe the circuit from the relay is the signal circuit that tells the fuel pump to turn on an off. This is all assuming power is red and black is ground (which both seem to check out fine. red/blk wire 10.75V-low due to uncharged batt from trouble shooting and black has .001 ohm resistance to ground.) no mods, all stock and only 3k mi on bike.

Relays seem to check out fine. what I am thinking is that the other side to the relay goes straight to the ECU (correct me if im wrong), so something else is telling the ECU to not turn the fuel pump system on.
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Old 12-16-2012, 06:30 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Don't try to trouble shoot an electrical problem with a dead battery.
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Old 12-16-2012, 11:08 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Don't try to trouble shoot an electrical problem with a dead battery.
It was just low from all the troubleshooting, turning on and off, turning it over and what not.

I was not able to get very far tonight. I cant seem to find anywhere in the service manual the specs of what i should be getting for voltages. normally in there it lists : removal, installation and inspection and state the specs there. It just says see ch 16 for that but there isnt anything in ch 16 for it

I was able to learn from the wiring diagram that the switch operates off of the brown and white wires, however there are 5 different wires going to the ignition switch at the connector.

Blue=12.21
Red=12
Gray=9.53
White=12.39 (is hot on or off) and drops approx .20v when key is turned
Brown=12.25

___

I attempted to put it in to dealer mode 1 so see if it would blink any codes and nothing happened. service man states to turn ign switch and ground out diag pin to chassis for mode 1.

______

I also started to look into a few more things the service man instructed.

Interlock system - checked out per service man specs. stated needed 4v or more and got 12v
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Old 02-03-2014, 10:47 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I know it's ancient history but u ever get any further with this? I'm having same problem after bike was stolen. Trying to get pump to cycle and let me know it's good but also have no spark w/ 4 good coils. New ECU, no new or old codes, scratching my head. Had no tank tumbler or key switch (crackheads) when recovered, so pump may have eaten debris while being joyridden, but i'm stumped...
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Old 02-22-2014, 08:36 PM   #19 (permalink)
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ANYBODY OUT THERE? Still watching this thread? I am in the same boat as ninjer was/is (hope it's the former). Any ideas would be helpful. Was told by someone who has had the same problem the grey wire from ign. to ECU has to push under 6v or it won't allow spark or fuel. I got it to 5.42 from 9.53 using inline resistors, but i still get no fuel pump cycle???
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Old 03-08-2014, 01:25 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Thanks everybody. Figured it out. Go me
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