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Old 03-03-2006, 05:32 PM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by noxen
how do you remove the tank without gas spilling everywhere??
its got a fitting that stops the flow when disconnected from the tank.

u can see it here
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_05...0&parent=13420
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Old 03-03-2006, 05:33 PM   #22 (permalink)
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also how do you order from ivans? you have to call the #?
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Old 03-03-2006, 05:39 PM   #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by noxen
also how do you order from ivans? you have to call the #?
yep, i called them.... they like to do things in person, which is kind of a nice change.

some other members mentioned a similar product from kyle racing, i think its just the plates though. ivans kit comes with the screw/plug/plates/directions/stickers so its up to you to decide which one u want. ended up being $41 shipped, ive paid a helluva lot more than that for a lot less before...lol

here is the info though

Rockland County Motorcycle Service
www.ivansperformanceproducts.com

Ivan Rovinsky
(845) 268-1212


I spoke to Ivan on the phone and he seemed like a good guy, seemed to know what he was talking about with the bike too.
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Old 03-07-2006, 06:15 AM   #24 (permalink)
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is this mod only done w/ fuel injected bikes? My local shop tried doing this on my carbed bike without notifying me... got it home and now the bike boggs out and dies once i shift to 2nd gear.. Now they get to replace all the lines they took out.
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Old 03-08-2006, 06:45 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by --96zx6--
is this mod only done w/ fuel injected bikes? My local shop tried doing this on my carbed bike without notifying me... got it home and now the bike boggs out and dies once i shift to 2nd gear.. Now they get to replace all the lines they took out.
i dont know? anybody else???

bump
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Old 03-15-2006, 05:04 AM   #26 (permalink)
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I have a 05 ZZR and it worked fine on mine except i ran a t from the reed valves and hooked it to the crankcase.
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Old 03-20-2006, 02:28 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Just did this mod this weekend. I was prepping my bike for a track riding school, and that damned coolant reservoir is well under the gas tank. Since I just about had the whole bike apart anyways, taking care of the Kleen system only took another few minutes. Now I need to get that cat out of the exhaust pipe.

Some notes for those doing this on a '05-'06 600/636. This information comes from the '05 ZX-6RR Race kit service manual.

Parts I needed:
1 - 1/8" vacuum plug
1 - 1/4" vacuum plug
1 - 3/8" vacuum plug
2 - Block-off plates (I used Dan Kyle's plates)
1 - Small tube of hi-temp RTV silicone sealant
1 - Tube of blue threadlocker

You can get the plates from www.kyleusa.com (cheapest I have found), everything else I bought at a autoparts store.

I removed the Kleen air covers, the reed valves under them, and all the stuff attached to said covers. For the vacuum line going to the throttle bodies, disconnect the line at the plastic 'T' connector. (where it splits off to two of the throttle bodies) The line will be very easy to seperate at this 'T'. Then plug the open end of the T with a 1/8" vacuum plug. (Best you use a vacuum plug vs a screw stuck in the line in my opinion) Where the larger hose connected to the airbox, plug that hole with a 3/8" vacuum plug. Soak in hot water to help it stretch over the slightly larger hole.

Clean the edges on the cylinder head cover where the new covers will go, and also clean out the threads of the holes of old thread-lock compound. Apply a very small bead of RTV around the entire edge of where the covers will be installed, avoid getting RTV into the bolt holes. Set the block off cover on top of the RTV bead, line it up best you can with the bolt holes trying not to shove the RTV off the edges. Apply a small drop of blue threadlock to each new bolt that came with your covers, carefully insert into each hole, and lightly snug each down. Now go back with a torque wrench and torque the bolts down to 104 in-lbs each.

There is also a hose with a small bottle connected to the airbox on the left side, remove this and plug the airbox hole with a 1/4" vacuum plug.

Leave the crankcase breather tube connected to the air-box where it was before.

There is also a small chamber installed under the ram-air intake at the front of the bike. It has nothing to do with the Kleen air system, but it is marked to be removed for increased performace in the race-kit service manual. (Reduces turbulence) If you remove that, also plug up the hole from removing it. I am going to glue a piece of spare plastic over the hole myself.

They also say to remove the front wire-mesh from the ram-air for decreased turbulance, and run without a air filter. I choose to keep the wire-mesh. (Stops the big bugs from getting in the airbox) And I also chose to run with a K&N HI-flow filter vs none at all. I don't rebuild my engine after every race like the factory boys do, so I think it was excessive to run without a air-filter and bug screen. Taking these out would let alot of crap into the engine.

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Old 03-20-2006, 02:48 PM   #28 (permalink)
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good addition to the thread man! thanks!

I just replaced the reed valves under the new block off plates, they acted like a seal so i didnt need any RTV. I also left the hose with the small bottle connected simply because i didnt see a need to remove it. i dont see any problems either way though.
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Old 03-20-2006, 11:58 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Your welcome!

Yeah, I took the reeds out cause the race kit manual said to take them out, so out they went!
Not having them reeds in has to be good for a few more ponies from the weight savings! No?

-Jerry
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Old 09-26-2006, 08:55 AM   #30 (permalink)
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now i dont understand y u want to getrid of the poping????
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