So I bought my 2010 ZX6R in White in Australia a month ago and just wrapped up the break in period. So I went ahead and ordered myself an M4 GP Slip-On exhaust from MotoMummy and 5 days later it was at my doorstep.
I've photographed/documented the install to the best of my ability.
Tools You Will Need:
- I suggest you get some T-Bar Allens for leverage as some of those bolts are recessed quite far back and you will need alot of torque to undo them
- I did it without socket wrenches and trust me... I would not reccommend it
- You need some plain wrenches to hold onto the backside of a nut while tightening or loosening, important for attaching the bracket inside the frame behind the rearset
Workshop Gloves (Optional)
- There is alot of stuff to nick your hands on underneath the bike
Phase 1: Stock Exhaust Removal
You need to remove the 3 bolts holding the end cap onto the canister
Put the parts aside in a safe location
You will be left with a bare looking back end
Remove the housing at the other end of the canister, there are two bolts to remove
Remove the sheath and place somewhere safe.
This is your new task
We need to remove the butterfly valve cables controlled by the servo underneath the seat.
Take a wrench and loosen the nut at the slots
Tuck the cables away for now, we will remove them later.
Now duck underneath the bike for a moment and look for where the canister is held to the pre-exhaust chamber and loosen the clamp nut.
Go ahead and loosen the mount to the rear footpeg as well
Remove the exhaust off the bike carefully and voila...
You will need to remove another bolt on the side on top of the chamber
As well as another two on the bottom
This part, I forgot to photograph (SORRY!)
You will need to loosen the clamp holding the chamber to the headers - this is almost impossible to do without a socket wrench... but I still did it. Please for your own sanity, use a socket wrench! If you haven't got any, get some!
There are also two bolts that hold the chamber to the frame via a bracket.
You will need some small hands, or a T-Bar Allen key and heaps of torque, they are pretty tight.
After that, wiggle the chamber out.
You will need to wedge it against the back wheel, I found a small spin helped to dislodge it. Be patient with it and it'll come.
This is what you should end up with
Phase 2: M4 GP Exhaust & Bracket Install
You will now need to remove the right footpeg.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO APPLY TOO MUCH TORQUE OR YOU MAY STRIP THE HEAD!!!!!!!!! You have been warned... Those suckers are on there TIGHT
Place the bracket behind the rearset points and affix using the supplied nuts and bolts. You will need patience and a steady hand to keep the nut in the right place. The bolt should screw in nice and easily so don't stress
The below; if you look carefully you can see the bracket behind the rearset.
Now we are on the home straight!
Slide the slip-on into the header. Be careful not to damage the gasket too much, but you will need to apply some force, it's meant to be snug
Tighten up the bolt that holds the exhaust to the bracket (the one you just installed) making sure the exhaust mount tab is on the OUTSIDE edge of the bracket. Tighten it up and then tighten up the clamp holding the exhaust to the headers.
You've just installed the M4 GP Slip On Exhaust!
At this point, I removed the seat and removed the cables that are controlled by the servo motor.
In my excitement, I forgot to take photos there also - SORRY!
But it's very easy, you can then remove both cables entirely from the bike. Some people choose to leave them there, but it's easy enough to re-route incase you need to revert to stock.
I also removed my rear footpegs while I was there, just to clean the tail end up a touch.
Voila! Stand back, look at your handy work, turn on the bike, gasp for ear and cover your ears!
Thanks for reading! I hope this has been informative and useful to people apprehensive about the install.