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Old 04-01-2011, 02:00 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Jumper mod on 09

I've read pro and con comments on this mod for the 09-11 zx6's. I know it worked on my 06 636 because the dyno showed it added 2 hp in the upper end of the RPM range where the stock bike went flat.

I thought what the heck I'll try it - after all its free. So here's an unbiased report.

My 09 has 6k miles on it, and has an XTRE and a Yosh RS-4 with a link-pipe. Never had it dyno'd because I'm saving up for a PC-5 and a custom tune. It runs great and is very strong. My only complaint is the throttle response when coming off closed throttle was a little fluffy like the old bikes with chokes used to be when the engine wasn't completely warmed up. So after I did the Jumper Mod I took the bike out for a ride and it felt just as strong as before but I was very surprised with the throttle response. It cleaned up that off closed throttle fluffiness when getting on the gas.

I'm sure the PC-V & dyno tune would also have cleaned up the throttle response but in my area the tune is $300.00 and the PC-V another $300.00 so maybe next year....
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Jumper mod on 09-img_2716.jpg  
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Old 04-01-2011, 02:03 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The 09 is not neutered, therefore the jumper nod is unnecessary.
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Old 04-01-2011, 09:19 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I'd like to see these 'pro' comments on the jumper mod for 09+ so I can tell them their idiots.

i did the jumper mod while on a real dyno, not a butt dyno. There is no difference.
-Cody
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Old 04-03-2011, 09:44 AM   #4 (permalink)
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yut ugh
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Old 04-03-2011, 01:01 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v167m View Post
... My only complaint is the throttle response when coming off closed throttle was a little fluffy like the old bikes with chokes used to be when the engine wasn't completely warmed up. So after I did the Jumper Mod I took the bike out for a ride and it felt just as strong as before but I was very surprised with the throttle response. It cleaned up that off closed throttle fluffiness when getting on the gas....
Quote:
Originally Posted by slev View Post
The 09 is not neutered, therefore the jumper nod is unnecessary.
Quote:
Originally Posted by exalted512 View Post
I'd like to see these 'pro' comments on the jumper mod for 09+ so I can tell them their idiots.

i did the jumper mod while on a real dyno, not a butt dyno. There is no difference.
-Cody
Apparently there is a difference, maybe not in horsepower, but throttle response.

09 ZX6R is my first 600cc bike. Current street bike is a Speed Triple and my previous track machine was a '04 ZX10R. I understand the 6R will not measure up power wise to the other two, but will handle better and to me part of this handling comes from nice crisp throttle response, which the jumper mod apparently makes better.

Now which wires do I have to jump?
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Old 04-03-2011, 02:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Show me an actual dyno sheet of before and after and I will believe that it does something. Last time I looked into this, it was fairly definitive that the "mod" did almost nothing, therefore was not worth it. If I remember, it only opens up the exhaust butterfly, which is also achieved by adding a full exhaust (which removes it).

I'll see if I can find the post I am referring to...

Found:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Banzai View Post
Please reference the underlined red statement above. My mistake, I mis typed. I meant, BUTTERFLY VALVE in the EXHAUST. I'll go back and re edit my last post so it's clear to anyone else! I'll call it the EXHAUST BUTTERFLY VALVE. I forgot that we sometimes use different words for the same parts. Some people ONLY use the word "butterfly" with the intake, even though the one in the exhaust is shaped and functions in the same manner. I appologize for being so imprescise.

Point of fact, however, the Service manual, in chapter 5, pgs 5-43 through 5-46, refers to the item in question as the "Exhaust Butterfly Valve".

IF you have a full exhaust system, and IF you have aftermarket fuel management, and IF you're shedding every single ounce, the 09+ jumper mod won't do a DAMN THING because the BUTTERFLY VALVE IN THE EXHAUST will be gone!

IF you have a bone stock bike from the tip of the front intake to the back of the muffler, the 09+ jumper mod will net you 2 total HP, but NO ONE has yet to be able to produce a dyno sheet that shows ANY DIFFERENCE WHATSOEVER in the shape or quality or quantity of either the torque or HP curves. To most normal people, that = WASTE OF TIME.

Please reference the blue statement above: ANYONE who removes the stock muffler and puts a slip on that removes the butterfly valve in the exhaust or puts on a full system, does essentially the same thing as the jumper mod at the same time. It would be redundant to do a full exhaust system or a slip on AND the jumper mod, since the servo would NOT be connected to anything.


I'm not sure how many ways it can be said: ANYTHING you do that removes the butterfly valve in the exhaust does the same thing as the so called 'jumper mod'. On a bone stock bike, even very experienced and sophisticated dyno operators CAN'T find the supposed 2HP boost and it does not change the shape or quantity of the torque curve, either.

Your money, your time, your bike. But the 09-10 ZX6R starts so far ahead of every other bike in basic trim in it's class that to race competatively, you MUST go aftermarket fuel management, aftermarket exhaust, AND do all of the other tricks that make a bike competative, and still your biggeset competators out there in terms of raw HP are going to be other 09+ bikes or any other older bike that has been FULLY race modded. If you're a hobby track day guy, well, you decide what level of effort and $$$ you're committed to, but the so called '09+ jumper mod' can possibly ONLY benefit a bone stock bike.

All other factors being equal, you'll see more performance gain from the LOSS OF WEIGHT with a full system than you will HP gain UNTIL you add aftermarket fuel management. THAT'S why full systems are so advantageous, you get to loose lots of weight that's useless on the track AND get to use aftermarket fuel management to peak and tweak the fuel system to optomize the bike for the track, and why it's worth $1500+. Yeah, alone an aftermarket exhaust full system is only a few HP, but it's that unlocking of the further potential when coupled with fuel management that makes them sell. And THAT is a feature that the factory system can't offer.

For the 2009-2010 Kawasaki ZX6R, there is no FUEL/SPARK curve difference in the USA (non jumper) and the EURO (jumper) map in the stock computer.

That's straight from Kawi, through track guys and through official interviews as provided through the motorcycle press. YOU decide if you want to call them liars (although MANY different people have confirmed it through several different methods), but they sure were truthful when they purposely 'leaked' the info about the 07-08 'jumper mod'.

The different fuel/spark curve maps software accessable through a jumper plug was ONLY the 07-08 model years. Kawi had to figure out the USA noise tests, and this was their work around. They mastered it with the changes to the 09-10 bike with mechanical differences and hardware choice, so there is no longer a need for a work around through software that neuters the engine. All the other bike makers are still behind where Kawi is, they're still trying to be competative in the HP arena, and they haven't worked it out yet like Kawi has. The competation 2010 bikes are still down on HP compared to the 2009 Kawis!

IN THE 2009-2010 ZX6R the 'jumper mod' ONLY CHANGES THE OPERATION PARAMETERS OF THE BUTTERFLY VALVE IN THE STOCK EXHAUST for a supposed net gain of 2HP, that no one has been able to prove on a dyno.

On many different bone stock bikes on the dyno, it has been shown that the 'jumper mod' provides so little overall change that the computer on the dyno shows NO DIFFERENCE in HP and torque curves between the bone stock and bone stock with jumper mod. You can lay one print out over the other and hold it up to a window so you can see both, and any minor difference is so small it's in the noise factor of the system. If you believe that, in this instance with a completely stock exhaust that you're getting 2HP despite no one else being able to find it with enough resolution to actually documnet it, well.....ROCK ON!!

Please, anyone else who reads this, PLEASE don't pay someone to do the 'jumper mod' for you and charge you for adding 2HP. Don't even let your buddies do it for you for pizza and beer. You'll be wasing good pizza and beer. If you've removed the exhaust butterfly valve, don't do it at all.

Removal of the exhaust butterfly valve either through disconnecting the cables and safety wiring open the valve, removing the valve completely and pulling out the cables, adding a slip-on that removes the valve, or adding a full exhaust system that removes the exhaust butterfly valve = same damn thing as bone stock fresh off of the showroom floor and I ain't even put a tank of gas through it yet + jumper mod.

This fact remains true:

07-08 jumper mod

09+ jumper mod





Moderators, is there ANY way we can consolidate the different 'jumper mod' threads into ONE sticky? Seems to me this is an issue that's very different from the 07-08 bikes, and everyone is assuming that a 'jumper mod' is now Kawi SOP instead of the software stop gap measure that it really was while they got their shit in one sock.
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Last edited by slev; 04-03-2011 at 02:38 PM.
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Old 04-03-2011, 04:51 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I figured it just changed the exhaust butterfly operation, due to varying noise emissions across the world.

Since I'm going to rock the stock system for a while, it looks like I'll be doing my jumper mod by safety wiring the exhaust butterfly open.
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Old 04-03-2011, 05:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DGA View Post
I figured it just changed the exhaust butterfly operation, due to varying noise emissions across the world.

Since I'm going to rock the stock system for a while, it looks like I'll be doing my jumper mod by safety wiring the exhaust butterfly open.
Just remove the cables at the box under the seat - no FI light and the flap is open by default.
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Old 04-04-2011, 06:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RedReplicant View Post
Just remove the cables at the box under the seat - no FI light and the flap is open by default.

Done and done. Thank you sir.
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Old 03-30-2014, 09:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by RedReplicant View Post
Just remove the cables at the box under the seat - no FI light and the flap is open by default.
Has anyone noticed any negative effects of removing the cables and running it with the valve in the default open position all the time?

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