Does anyone know how to 'wind out' the slipper clutch? At stock it feels like there's no slippage when engine braking. At all.
Is it something to do with those Y-shaped springs or is it internal to the
sub-clutch?
If you don't have the back end lock up when you do something stupid (drop two gears and dump the clutch) then it's working correctly.
You are supposed to have normal engine braking, it is just when the wheel and engine speeds become so different that you risk locking the wheel that it starts to slip.
The y-shaped springs control how much back torque it takes to kick out the slipper clutch, but I wouldn't mess with them. And there's no such thing as a sub-clutch.
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Of course I'm generalizing from a single example here, but everyone does that. At least I do.
Yes, I do know how they work.
I just haven't had a bike with a slipper clutch before or how they behave and how they can be adjusted.
There is a part in the 2012's clutch assembly called the sub-clutch.
I have not studied on these clutches very much but FYI there are KIT parts available to adjust the amount of force required to make it slip. I think it's shims of some sort that vary in thickness.
I didn't think the clutch was working properly at some track days I attended but after adjusting my rebound dampening on the rear all of the skipping went away and I was able to tell when the slipper was working. Mostly when I rushed a corner and did not adequately rev match.
The clutch is adjustable by some plates and modifying a few of the tabs. It's on my list of to do things this year. I get some rear wheel hop under braking and downshifting.
Slipper clutch
Linear Mode
