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How to: KLEEN Air Mod 05-06 ZX6R COMPLETE. UPDATED

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130K views 86 replies 41 participants last post by  that1kidtony  
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#1 · (Edited)
How to: KLEEN Air Mod for 05-06 ZX6R on NON-CA Bike.


There has been many different How-Tos on this subject. And many threads about people getting confused on what to do. Here is mine. I just did today. I hope this helps everyone :D. The photos are being hosted by photobucket and I will keep them active forever.

First things first. This will all-in-all cost you less than $20. :)


PARTS YOU WILL NEED:

1. T-Connector (plastic or copper, whatever you like)

2. Pack of Vacuum Caps
  • (2) 5/32" for Throttle Bodies
  • (1) 3/8" for Air Box
  • (1) 1/4" for Air Box
3. 2 feet of 3/8" Fuel Line Hose

4. Zip Ties or Hose Clamps (whichever you prefer)


TOOLS YOU WILL NEED:

1. Typical Allen Keys

2. Rachet

3. 10MM Socket

4. 10MM Open-end

5. Knife


Here we go.

Image


Image



Step 1:
- Remove side panels, seat, and gas tank (I will not show you how, you should know how to perform this if you want to do this mod)

Step 2:
- Remove 5/8" Hose from Air box to top of Crankcase.

Image


Step 3:
- Remove Air Box

Image


Step 4:
- Remove KLEEN Valve and ALL associated vacuum lines
- Cap 2 ports on Throttle bodies that do now not has vacuum lines off them

Image


Step 5:
- Place T-Connecter between the 2 ports coming off each valve and connect it with either new hose or pieces of the existing one and cut it to fit. (thats what I did)

Image


Step 6:
- Now Connect the 3/8" hose you bought from the T-Connector to the top of the crankcase, NOTE: The hose you bought is 3/8" and the nipple off the crankcase is bigger, so just cut the old one and use it as an adapter. (AS SHOWN BELOW)

- Route the hose neatly away from the throttle bodies and around the side down the frame rail, not to interfere with anything.

Image



IT SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS....

Image


Step 7:
- Underneath the air box is 2 holes...Plug both of them.
- Also the front hole that previously connected to the crankcase..plug that too with a bolt (AS SHOWN BELOW).

Image


Step 8:
- Zip tie or hose clamp all connections. I rode around with the zip ties with no problem. You can recall at the beginning when you remove the hose coming from the crankcase to the air box that the hose clamp was not even that tight, and could be removed by finger. So, I liked zip ties here.

- Here is the final picture

Image


Step 9:
- Put air box back on, make sure its tight on there.
- Put tank back on, dont forget to connect the harness and fuel like, and route the vent down to the bottom.
- Put the seat and side panels back on


AND WAA LAA...YOUR FINISHED!! :D

NOW TAKE IT FOR A RIDE AND SEE IF YOU FEEL A DIFFERENCE

I FELT A DIFFERENCE IN THE THROTTLE...IT FELT SMOOTHER THROUGHOUT THE POWERBAND!


ANY QUESTIONS YOU CAN PM ME HERE..



MODS: I hope you guys approve this...it took me so long, I just want to help out alot of people who have been asking about this lately. LOL
 
#3 ·
The reed valves vent the crank case fumes to the exhaust. CC fumes instead of fresh air. No more popping either.
 
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#5 · (Edited)
Why direct PCV hose to your exhaust instead of leaving it alone? The PCV hose is routed to the airbox so that the hydrocarbons from piston ring "blow by" can be burnt through the induction system. By choosing to run your PCV this way, when the reed valves are closed you have NO crankcase ventilation at all. And, by venting any type of air/gas into the exhaust, your defeating the purpose of this modification.


collinjoseph said:
Look like you're a penis after all Croom.:D

Ya, you don't block the reed valves when you do it this way. This mod. will also prevent hydrolock during a looooong wheelie...
Click to expand...
How dude? Explain it to me....... I'm a penis. :p Most bikes are subject to catastrophic engine failure from loooong wheelies due to the simple fact that oil cant return to the sump in the oil pan, because the engine is at an angle that it wasnt intended to run at (90 degrees). :dunno:
 
#8 ·
p.s. good write up, though the 5th pic kinda sucks. i don't have a clue what you're pointing at.
 
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#10 ·
I understand what Xtremewlr was trying to do with the whole negative PCV thing. ;)

Although I'm still not sold on that particular way of doing it (no offense to Xtremewlr). :D



And yes CollinJoseph, I can also see how oil could POSSIBLY enter the airbox, but I'm still sticking with my previous statement. :lol:
 
C
#12 ·
No dude, it's absolutely true. Xtremwlr did a very good "How To" on this, but he didn't come up w/the idea. In fact, I first saw this method of the Kleen mod. on Stunt Life. The fella who did the "How To" had an 05 zx6r and he actually experienced the Hydrolock that mentioned earlier. He had pics of his throttle bodies filled w/oil to the top! I have been running this method of Kleen mod. for about two seasons. The only two differences that I have noticed:

1. I had to adjust my idle slightly (I don't remember if it was up or down).

2. A LOT less popping coming from the exhaust.

Now, I can't do two mile wheelies (Hopefully someday :)), but I can ride staggered wheelies pretty far. I've never experienced any problem, so everthing seems to be workin' fine...




















penis:D
 
#21 ·
ok, so i did mine just a bit different. instead of using a T. i just ran a short hose between each valve. plugged the to vac ports, and the port on the air box. leaving the crankcase vented how it was. the crank REALLY needs to be vented.

so far so good. the exhaust sounds a bit...smoother... not sure exactly how to describe. but there was a difference. and the idle seemed smoother. and i also had to adjust the idle slightly.

BUT, on my trip yesterday, i noticed my left sleeve was unsnapped. so i sped up to gain some speed,and pulled the clutch. took my right hand, and reached over to snap it. once i got back on the throttle...nothing happened. it had died! wtf. thats NEVER happened before.

released the clutch, it started right up. so i did it again. let go of the throttle, with the clutch in. and watched the tach drop...fluttered around 900-1000, then just dropped off, and died. hit the starter, and it fired right up.

never did it before that, and never since. :dunno: weird
 
C
#25 · (Edited)
When you do the version of this mod. that Nicky posted you are NOT removing the crankcase vent. You are simply rerouting it. In fact the idea here, is that by routing to the PAIR valves you are able to create a slight vacuum in the crankcase. Read below. I have personally been running this method of KLEEN mod. for the last 6k +, w/o any problems.
xtremewlr said:
I decided it was time to remove all the California smog crap off the bike and do the PAIR valve/KLEEN mod. I did NOT use block off plates however, instead I have a hose running to the crankcase vent to provide a vacuum on the crankcase. The idea is that a negative pressure in the crankcase actually helps the piston rings seal better and helps build a little horsepower by removing any positive pressure that builds in the crankcase while the engine is running.
Click to expand...
I actually came across this way of doing the mod. on Stuntlife at first. Stunters do the mod. to stop Oil from entering the airbox (and subsequently the throttle bodies) during a long wheelie...

FTR, I've never heard of anyone having problems w/any type of this mod.
 
S
#22 ·
Hey there Nicky, I hope you dont mind me replying to your Air mod. I noticed that my air box was making more noise than usual under hard acceleration, i found a pipe had come off and will need to put it back on when i get the time this week. I looked at your mod and wonderd if it caused any long term damage by doing this, and does it change anything? P.S. I just found this site and I have just registerd, have been riding kwakas for the past 5 years, my 636 is in black, will ad pic when I get the chance, cheers
 
#32 ·
hey great right up rep for that. I will be doing this mod at some point i still gotta figure out how to unhook the tank and everything and then i can do this mod. When i put my air filter in last oil change the wires going to the gas tank worrried me i was afraid of spilling all the gas everywhere if i took the wrong wire off haha.
 
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#34 ·
Alright i was asked about this mod, i agree to some point of what has been done in the DIY, but dont agree with some parts.
Why would you ever want to NOT vent your crankcase? that makes absolutely no sense.
and by not venting this it can cause you to blow out your valve cover gasket.
by making this long line that goes to the front you are just cutting the vent point out and making an oil catch tube.
sure it will work but the engine is not venting out anything as it is intended to.
i have had my pair mod done since the 1st weekend i owned the bike and still no issues, but i left my crankcase breather tube attacked and the drain tube, but the rest was blocked off.


if you dont want the crankcase breather on the airbox go to a small airfilter or catch can like the kit part...
 

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#36 ·
Keeping the CC vent to air box???

So after reading all the info I think that the cc vent to the airbox will stay when I mod the kleen flow, with block off plates.
I have a 636 04. where can I get the block off plates? or is the tubing just as good?
I searched for the block off plates but can't get a hit on them.

Thanks
 
#37 ·
i did this mod on my bike last night. the crankcase is now vented through the exhaust. guys that have this mod done on their stuntbikes have proven it. when the bike is back far on a wheelie, the exhaust will smoke because it is burning off oil that has traveled up from the crankcase. i think that the smoke just proves that the crankcase is vented through the exhaust.
 
#38 ·
I have been debating on going through the trouble to do this mod for some time. I just dont clearly understand the point as i am new to the bike scene. What is the main gain from doing this mod. I may be missing something completely sorry if that is the case.
 
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C
#39 ·
Wow, I just found this thread again.

This mod. just helps your bike run a little better. If you have an aftermarket exhaust, for example, you should notice less popping (backfiring) during deceleration after performing the mod. The PAIR valves will no longer be "recycling" hot, dirty air/fumes back into your engine. I've heard it said that this mod. can add a horse or two, but I've never seen it proven.

If you use the method that was being discussed above, then you can do looooong wheelies w/o worrying about hydrolock (oil running into your air box from the crankcase, and subsequently into your throttle bodies).

Just a reminder, you will probably need to adjust your idle using the knob near your left knee (when sitting on the bike) after performing this mod.
 
B
#40 ·
Final Thoughts

After reading more than ways to do this from everyone and thier mother, let me see if i have the jist.

1. If you are worried about oil getting into the airbox you should definately attach a longer hose from the CC to the reed valves.

2. If you are not concerned with oil getting into the airbox then capping the reed valves and keeping the CC vented through the airbox is your option.

3. Capping the reed valves is totally 100% different than clamping off the hose and leaving the metal stock cover intact?
 
C
#41 · (Edited)
BamaBoi,

Not sure if it has been discussed in this thread, but another way that I've seen this done is by removing the hose and t-fitting from the valve covers, and replacing it w/a hose that just runs between the two valve covers. If you don't wanna buy the covers, or reroute all the hoses then this may be an option for you. Just make sure that the new hose is clamped (or zip tied) to the valve covers.
 
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