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HOW-TO: Install BKMOTO BiXenon HID projectors 09-12 Ninja ZX6R ZX-6R 08-10 ZX10R

24K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  borka 
#1 ·
This post will show all the steps required to properly install bkmoto.com HID projector headlight kit into the 2009 - 2012 Kasawaki Ninja ZX6R, And 2008 - 2010 ZX10R

Tired of only having one low beam headlight?

BKMOTO Bixenon HID projector kit will make both your headlights be on for low beams and high beams using the factory handlebar switch. With super bright HID's and optional Halos.

More information on this kit can be found on www.bkmoto.com

The kit will come with everything that you need to install the projectors, including all neccesary H9 adapters and H11 plugs which will plug into your OEM headlight plugs. as well as BKMOTO exclusive custom designed mounting hardware for a completely BOLT ON installation.

No other kit on the market offers a complete bolt on projector solution for the 09+ ZX6R.

This project should take about a full day, or a nice weekend with lots of breaks.

Here is the complete kit:



Lets start!

Remove headlight, remove light bulbs from the headlight



Now, you will need to open your headlight.
To do this you will need to heat up the glue that holds the headlight together.
You have 2 choices, Either use the oven or buy a cheap heat gun (about $25 at any hardware store) Or if you have access to a good strong hair drier, it should work as well.

Heat gun Method:
Turn on the heat gun on high setting, hold the heat gun about 8" away from the seam and work your way around the headlight seam slowly for a few rounds.

Hair Drier method:
Same as heat gun, but hold the blow drier 1" from the seam and move around the headlight REAL slow, slow enough to get the seam nice and hot.

Oven Method:
Preheat the oven to 225F degrees, place the headlight on a towel and into the center of the oven.
Bake the headlight for 8 minutes at 225F degrees, then remove the headlight.

Once headlight is hot, start to open it using flat head screw drivers, carefully open the little tabs that lock the headlight together and pry the headlight open.
If you are struggling, then the glue is not hot enough, as it should be fairly easy to open once the glue is hot.
You might need to reheat the headlight a few times untill the lens is off.








Remove the lens


Heat up the second lens and remove it, you might need to reheat the headlight for a few minutes if it cooled down while you were removing the first lens.



Remove the stock projectors by turning the 3 rear adjuster screws on the back of the headlight, turn each screw a few circles and go to the next, dont simply unscrew one and then the next, but work your way from screw to screw, turning a few circles each screw.



Remove the 3 plastic inserts from the stock projectors.


Put the stock projectors away, as its likely you will never see them again :D

Now you need to mount the 3 plastic inserts into the provided mounting plates.

The mounting plates are thicker then the stock projector mounts, so you need so slightly widen the gap to make the inserts fit, cut very very little at a time and test fit, you want these inserts very tight on the plates, so dont cut too much.







We are now ready to mount the projectors into the mounting plates.
If you bought the optional demon eyes, then follow the demon eyes installation instructions before continuing.

insert the provided screws into mounting plates


mount projectors into screws


secure projectors with the supplied nuts


Dont tighten the nuts hard yet, we need to test the light pattern on a wall and adjust the projectors slightly before making everything tight.

To fire up the projectors you need to mount them back into the headlight, by turning the 3 rear adjustment screws. again turn each screw a few turns and go to the next.
You want to back the lower screw that is in the center of the headlight, and the upper screw all the way back, and the outer lower screw only half way.
like this:





Once both projectors are mounted, Place the headlight on a level surface.
Insert hid bulbs into the projectors,
Use the supplied ballast test leads, connect the red/black wires from the test leads to the battery,
connect the ballasts to the light bulbs
Then connect the test leads to the ballasts
Once the bulbs come on, shine the light on a wall and if the cut off lines are not the same horizontally, meaning that one is straight across and the other one is slanted to the side, simply turn the slanted projector until the cut off line is the same horizontally as the other line,

Once the projectors are properly oriented on the plates, remove them from the headlights,then put locktite thread locker on the nuts and tighten them.
Only do one screw at a time, so the projector will stay properly oriented.


and now mount them back into the headlight same as above.
 
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#2 · (Edited)
Halo's installation instructions:

Remove the plastic bezel from the headlight lens with the 3 screws on the back.




Insert the halo ring into the hole, push in the ring so its snug, the ring is perfectly sized.



On the back side you will see there is a small gap in the plastic on the round opening, that is where the halo wires need to be, like in the picture below.


Apply plenty of clear silicone glue all around and let dry for 12 hours.
Silicone is available though BKMOTO or your hardware store.



Thats it, very easy!

Now that the projectors and halos are mounted and aimed, we can close up the headlights.
Reheat the glue on the headlight body and lens with the heat gun, then press the headlight together.
Wrap some painters tape around the headlight tightly, and let it cool down for 30mins.

If using oven method, then put the lenses back onto the headlight, press them in lightly, not all the way.
Place headlight on a towel and into the oven at 225F for 5 minutes, remove hot headlight from the oven and press lenses firmly together.
wrap painters tape around tightly and let it cool down for 30mins.

Result:



This post is not complete yet, i will finish it up over the next few days
 
#3 · (Edited)
Wiring:



1. Connect both White low beam + to Low beam + pigtail
2. Connect both Blue high beam + to high beam + pigtail
Connect the halo/inverters red/black wires to corner lights
OR
3. Connect both Halo red + to low beam + pigtail
4. Connect both Halo black - to low beam ground - pigtail
5. all other connections self explanatory.

that's it.


Here is how to wire using a simple on/off switch to turn off low beam HID's to have only halo's on, or to start the bike with hid's off to avoid stressing the battery.


 
#5 ·
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#10 ·
You need the special harness/splitters to get the low beam and high beam signals to both sides of the headlights. Stock wiring turns only one side on for low beams, and when high beam is engaged, the other side should turn on. The way you need to wire it is split the low beam signal from low beam stock harness to both HID ballasts (using appropriate splitter adapter for aftermarket harness). Then for the high beam, split high beam signal from stock harness using splitter adapter to both solenoids on the projector. VOILA! both sides of the headlight have low and high capability now.
 
#7 ·
how did you connect the relay harnesses to the H11 pigtails?

you need to connect both white wires from the relays to the low beam + and both blue wires to high beam +
 
#11 ·
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#13 ·
I don't know who I talked to yesterday and today, but a million thanks for helping me get the wiring sorted out. Not a lot of companies will forward the work phone to their cell phones and answer on a Saturday evening and Sunday morning.


I gotta say though, although the end result was worth the 2 days of freaking out about tearing apart my brand new bike, and the scratched knuckles, I think it's a stretch to call this kit "bolt on." But I am thankful for not having to fabricate my own mounting plates for the projectors.


The picture showing the diagram for the wiring was helpful, but some more detailed instructions would have been appreciated. It also didn't help that out of the 4 ninjas I've spent any significant amount of time around, my 2012 is (well, was) the only one with the low beam on the right instead of the left. That's not really your fault though.


I'm also not sure what to do about the birds nest of wires that are now on either side of the forks. I think I'm going to try wrapping everything in electrical tape, because right now it looks ridiculous. I already smashed one of the relays between the left fork and the frame on account of where it is located in the line from the battery, and popped the bottom off of it. That's really probably my fault though, but I'm curious how much you'd charge me for a replacement.


All in all, I'm very happy with how everything turned out, and all the included parts seemed to be of good quality. Nothing felt cheap, which is good, because it wasn't. I just wish the directions would have been a little more user friendly. If you have this particular bike, when you get the pigtails with the red and black wires, just cut the black wire off completely, otherwise it will confuse the shit out of you.


Thanks for my new badass HIDs!
 
#14 ·
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