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Old 11-28-2005, 09:32 PM   #41 (permalink)
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Just Completed my Dual Headlight Conversion:

Parts list:

3 5 pin relays with plug harnesses,
2 H4 bulbs (Your Choice but keep it to 60/55W to prevent overheating)
1 Inline fuse holder with 30 amp(plug in type fuse)
3&1/2 feet 12 AWG red wire (Make sure to leave some extra length)
3&1/2feet 14 AWG black wire (")
3 feet 14 AWG pink wire (")
3 feet 14 AWG lt blu wire (")
2 H4 low profile Hi heat resistant plugs with flag terminals
2 12 AWG eyelet terminals
4 10-12 AWG splices
1 male/female bullet connector
6 feet 3/8" black split flex wire conduit
1 soldering iron & rosin core wire solder
12 female spade terminals
1 pair good wire crimpers
1 pair wire cutters
1 pair good wire strippers
1 pair Aviation tin snips or dremel rotary tool. (I used snips; less chance of damaging the bulb.)
1 roll electrical tape
heat shrink tubing

Lets get started!
Remove Upper fairing and headlight assembly. Remove headlight assembly from fairing and store fairing in a safe place! Remove headlight harness from headlight assembly. Cut hdlht harness flush with the fwd of rubber grommet & pull wires through the grommet. (The new wires will be routed thru these holes.)

Crimp and solder up the flag terminals to the wires and assemble the H4 connectors. Wire length should be about 9" on each side. Route the wires thru the hdlht bulb access hole to the grommet hole. (Do not cut wires to length just yet; not until the bulbs are modified, installed and plugged in.) Using Aviation tin snips, trim the bulb plate to match the size of the H7 plate. Make sure to install the bulb so the tab or middle contact spade in on top.

Install the bulbs, connectors & route the wires thru the grommet hole. Pull the wires to remove excess slack but not too tight. Leave some room to be able to remove the plugs from the bulbs and for some flexibility. Now, cut the wires and strip the ends. Twist the pairs of each color and splice together. Splice the remainder of the same color wires to these pairs. Use electrical tape or heatshrink over the splices and pass thru the grommet holes. Crimp and solder the female spade terminals to the 2 pink & lt blu wires. (These will plug into the relays.) Crimp a bullet connector to the black wire. (This will connect directly to the negative ground to battery.)


Install the split flex tubing around the wires from the headlight or you can do it later. Crimp and solder the female spade terminals to the pink/lt blu/ black wires of the existing stock harness. (These will plug into the relay.


crimp & solder the eyelet terminal and Splice in
the Fuse holder to the 4 feet 12AWG red wire. Install a splice at the other end of the red wire toward the relays. Use 2 short pieces of 14 AWG wire and splice into the red wire.(Either remove the fuse in the fuse holder or DO NOT HOOK UP TO THE POSITIVE OF BATTERY YET!) Crimp & solder the female spade terminals to these wire ends. Crimp & solder an eyelet terminal to the 4 feet of 14AWG black wire to connect to the negative battery post. Remove the FWD tank mount bolt and prop tank up with a piece of 8" 2x4 or ?. Install the split flex tubing (Electrical Tape every 9") to the RED & Black wires and route to the RH of battery, under the cross brace next to the frame under the tank (Next to the frame) under the RH Neck/frame beam and pull the wires thru next to the existing harness above the radiator cap area. (Taping the ends of the wires together will help in routing thru.)
Crimp the opposite bullet end to the black negative wire and start connecting according to my diagram. I mounted my relays next to the inner fairing cover grommet tab using a sheetmetal screw thru the relay tab and since the relay plugs interlock, it is very secure, neat and out of sight with the cover on.


Install the headlight back into the fairing and on the bike. Start connecting according to my diagram and pictures shown. Make sure that the negative (black) terminal at the headlight is on the LH side looking from the back of the bike. The red and blue wires in the picture are opposite colors in the diagram and I chained all 3 ground wires together including the ground from the stock harness.



Hook it all up and LET THERE BE LIGHT!!!

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Old 11-28-2005, 09:44 PM   #42 (permalink)
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Forgot one thing; small detail:

At the headlight; use the soldering iron to melt away a little bit of plastic in a circle so you can pass/ clamp the flex tubing to it. It makes for a clean installation and also keeps the harness from coming in contact with the forks when you turn the handlebars.


THIS MOD WILL WORK FOR 05-06 ZX6R/RR AND ZX10R's also. Same Headlight harness!!!
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Old 11-30-2005, 08:56 AM   #43 (permalink)
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NICE WORK! very clean and detail oriented.
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Old 12-01-2005, 04:50 AM   #44 (permalink)
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Here are more pictures with just stock H4 60/55watt bulbs from my old 85 ZX600R I had laying around and they are this bright already. I haven't even installed the super bright (BLUE) bulbs in the pics.

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Old 12-01-2005, 05:39 AM   #45 (permalink)
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One more important detail: You can take the Diffuser out thru the harness Grommet hole without destroying it.
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:32 PM   #46 (permalink)
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I am selling a couple of kits on ebay but will have more made up shortly. Also the kit will be in different stages depending upon the installers requests and experience/ abilities. Just search on ebay for: Kawasaki ZX6R ZX6RR ZX 636 ZX10 Dual Headlight Modify! or here's a direct link to my auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMESE%3AIT
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Old 01-17-2006, 02:11 AM   #47 (permalink)
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hey speedracer138
do you think you could make the same mod for mine 03 z1000 ??
the single light looks so cheesyyyy..........

please let me know.
oh and by the way i heard about you on other forums from a guy who bought the set from you for his 636...
but anyway i just wanted to let u know you famous

hope to hear from you

milos
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Old 01-17-2006, 05:46 PM   #48 (permalink)
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I installed the wiring harness from Speedracer. It worked great after a bit of help diagnosing why the marker lights wouldn't work. It seems the led lights are polarity specific, so turning them around solved the problem.
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Old 01-18-2006, 12:02 PM   #49 (permalink)
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hey ken
thats how i found out about speedracer
you posted tread on sportriders

thanks for that althought he didnt responded yet maybe i should try to do it myself but - no time $ no electrical expierience

but anyway speedracer im still hoping to hear from YOU

milos
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Old 01-18-2006, 01:22 PM   #50 (permalink)
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I wouldn't recommend trying the conversion yourself if you don't have a lot of electrical experience. Speedracer did a nice job at this and it's complex enough to screw it up without some real knowledge.
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