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Old 06-12-2006, 03:17 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default garage door opener using lap timer, step by step

well here is a step by step on how to wire your garage door opener to you lap button on an 05/06 ZX6R.. this should be exactly the same on other bikes, you will just have to find the correct positive wire to tap into since i dont know if it will be the same color wire.

there was another how to on here, but it wasnt fully detailed and it was also showing you how to do it by wiring in a switch, hooking up to your gauge cluster, and using a relay.... non of which is needed (at least on an 05/06, cant say for other years)

this will make your garage door opener work while still leaving your lap timer work as well. The only thing.. if you are within range of your garage door opener working and want to use your lap timer button, it will keep opening/closing every time you press it. But since most of the time you use your lap timer, you will be far enough away from your house not to worry about that happening, then theres no worries.

ok here goes... i wanted to try to mount it somewhere and also have it be water proof..

so i bought a project box from radio shack, part # 270-283A .. it comes with a board, but you will just throw this away. (note- this box may not work for your remote, i used a keychain remote which is smaller than the ones you keep inside your car and such, just bring your remote in the store and find a box that works for your size remote)

project box -



also got some high temp heavy duty velco tape, part # - 64-2360 -



next i wanted to find a spot to mount it, that had plenty of space and was also close to the wires that needed to be tapped. found a PERFECT spot right underneath the plastic piece under the right handle

1st remove just this one bolt, the lift up and out the plastic piece -



here is where it will be mounted, you will see exactly where later -



next, you will see a few connectors under the plastic piece you removed, like so (note the large black one, and the clear one with the black cap over it, those are what your looking for) -



here is the wire, white with pink stripe, you need to tap that controls the lap timer, this will be hooked up to the positive side of your garage remote where the battery went -



here is the bundle of ground wires you will hook up to the negative side of the garage remote where the battery went, any of these wires will work just pick one.. they are all black with yellow stripe -



also while your at radio shack (i already had some) pick up some T-taps and some male spade connectors like shown here. you can see how they work, requires no cutting of the wire.. just clamp the T-tap down on the original wire, hook up the spade connector to the new wire and it plugs right in. It will probably come in a pack, but you only need 2 of each -



ok now for modifying the remote and mounting it in the project box. 1st you will need to do some soldering. The positive and negative sides were pretty easy, the jumper for the button was pretty tricky but somehow mine turned out pretty good.

here is just the positive and negative wires soldered on, no jumper yet -



now here it is with the jumper, on your remote just jump the 2 terminals on the back of button that works to open your door. I used a very small piece of metal between the 2 -



now with that done and the wires hanging off of it, i wanted to put the board from the remote, back into the case. So i filed 2 slots so the wires could run through -




now i wanted to mount the remote inside the project box. 1st drill 2 small holes in the project about where the wires would come out, just big enough for the wires to barely be pushed through. then take a small piece of the velco tape and put one side on the remote and once side in the project box and mount the remote -




now put the metal cover on the back... and i forgot to take a pic of this, but before you put it on, run a small bead of black RTV around the whole edge of the box and around the wires sticking out of the holes from the box, this will help make it waterproof. now put the cover on and screw it down. Then mount a whole strip of tape to the metal cover -



now all thats left is tapping the wires, and mounting the box. very easy. Here are the wires tapped and exactly where you need to mount the box. Make sure to give a little room between the box and and the bracket right above it so you have room for the post on the plastic cover to actually fit through -






and thats it, now put the cover back on and your all set. here is a pic with it back on and you can see how its not even noticable -



All finished.

Note this was used with a Legacy garage door opener that is less than a year old, so i would assume it has rolling code. This should work exactly the same on your opener as well.

Like i said before, your lap timer will still work just fine... just dont use it anywhere in range of your house where the garage opener would work. Outside of that, you can use the lap button as normal all you want cause you wont be close enough to opener your garage so you wont need to worry about it.

What do you guys think? any questions/comments?
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Old 06-12-2006, 03:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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very good write up! my only question is what voltage does the lap timer wire run at? i am assuming 12V. if someone has a remote that requires less voltage than the output from the lap button wire that should be an easy fix by using the correct resistor.
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Old 06-12-2006, 03:37 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by MAS
very good write up! my only question is what voltage does the lap timer wire run at? i am assuming 12V. if someone has a remote that requires less voltage than the output from the lap button wire that should be an easy fix by using the correct resistor.
good point. this was done with a 12v opener. So yes, the lap button provides 12v.
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Old 06-29-2006, 04:04 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Awesome "how to". Okay, its been along time since circuit analysis at university so bear with me. If, for some reason you have a different voltage opener, say V_a volts, then would require a resistor in series with the opener such that V_a + IR = 12volts. Is this right (sorry, I should know this)? If so, (another dumb question) what current would the opener see?

(im gonna be embarassed if I screwed up my basic circuit theory [:I])
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Old 06-30-2006, 12:42 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by zx6r_fng
Awesome "how to". Okay, its been along time since circuit analysis at university so bear with me. If, for some reason you have a different voltage opener, say V_a volts, then would require a resistor in series with the opener such that V_a + IR = 12volts. Is this right (sorry, I should know this)? If so, (another dumb question) what current would the opener see?

(im gonna be embarassed if I screwed up my basic circuit theory [:I])
haha, beats me dude.
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Old 07-11-2006, 05:37 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The opener doesnt pull really any amps at all. So theres no risk in frying anything. Also how is that opener you used 12v? What kind of 12v battery would fit in there?
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Old 08-03-2006, 05:13 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I have a question, I did the same mod before I read this post, but I just jumpered right to the back of the lap timer button and grounded right behind the air intake on the frame. Mine was working great, then all the sudden on night when I got home, it did not work. The next day I stripped it down to try to find out why and the remote just quit working. Any clues as to why the remote just quit. The wires are still cranking out 12v so that is not the problem.
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Old 08-03-2006, 02:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by mlathem1
I have a question, I did the same mod before I read this post, but I just jumpered right to the back of the lap timer button and grounded right behind the air intake on the frame. Mine was working great, then all the sudden on night when I got home, it did not work. The next day I stripped it down to try to find out why and the remote just quit working. Any clues as to why the remote just quit. The wires are still cranking out 12v so that is not the problem.
Was it maybe a 3V opener, like every one I've seen? I don't know if it's a brand thing or what, but I've not found a 12V remote of any size for my opener. I've checked all I can find at local stores, those of friends, etc. All 3V. I would think 12V would run it, and probably has for a lot of people that have done this mod, but it seems it would evetually fry.

When you get your replacement, if it is 3V, swing by Radio Shack and pick up a #7805 Voltage Regulator - http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...tId=2062599&cp. Less than $2, drops that 12V signal to a stable 5V - that's still over-voltage for a 3V opener, but not nearly as bad as 12V. Probably won't cook at 5V. At least I hope not, because that's what I used.
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Old 08-04-2006, 01:06 AM   #9 (permalink)
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yup, 7805, thats what i was about to suggest.. btw, if u use 2 diodes in line with the voltage regulator, u can drop it to 3 volts because each diode has a voltage drop of 1 volt across it...
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Old 08-05-2006, 01:41 AM   #10 (permalink)
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well my garage door opener uses a 23AE battery, which is 12v.. so thats why ive had no problems yet. has been working flawlessly and i love it. much better than a keychain remote i had before.
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