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How to: adjust the factory CCT on a 636

211K views 238 replies 105 participants last post by  Bálint Polgár 
#1 · (Edited)
If your bike is suffering from the loud mechanical noise aka "Kawi Click", this 'how to' is for you. It made a drastic change on my bike and it is now 100% free of the clanking noise. Sounds like a completely different bike(in a good way!). By doing this you are accountable for your own actions, I am not responsible if you screw something up. Caution must be taken during this adjust.

Tools Needed:
  • 4mm hex key
  • 5mm hex key
  • 1/4" ratchet with 6-8" extension and an 8mm socket
  • 8mm open end wrench


1. Remove the plastic fairing which covers the seat bolts on both sides, remove seat, remove tank bolts on left and ride side (see pic), remove top tank bolt below ignition key, prop up tank and using something to hold it up, remove right side (brake side) mid fairing.





2. Locate the factory CCT. It is circled in the pictures below:





3. Use your 1/4" ratchet with extension and 8mm socket to loosen the top bolt. Unscrew the bolt about 2mm's out. Use your open end wrench to loosen the bottom bolt about 1-3mm(or about 2-4 turns), while loosening it, be very careful and listen closely for the click sound made by the CCT. You shouldn't have to loosen the CCT very much for it to auto adjust to the next setting. I recommend only adjusting 1 click at a time and starting the bike up to check for any improvement. DO NOT start the bike up with the CCT loose. See picture below for how far out I opened my CCT:






4. Double check to make sure the 8mm bolts on the CCT are tightened. Reassemble the fairings, seat and tank.

5. Enjoy your now quieter kawi.
 
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8
#96 ·
Too strong of a spring will out more pressure on the cam chain slider causing more drag and wear of the slider.

Yes, that is why they use the spring rate they do. I'm sure it was due to a lot of research and testing.
 
#3 ·
lol, i was scavenging the other thread for pictures on this for the 05/06 & FINALLY i found it, i feel like my 2 yr old son w/ his damn picture books :D great write up & VERY useful
 
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#13 ·
HEY I THINK YOU GUYS THAT DID THIS TO YOUR BIKE YOU SHOULD READ THIS. FROM WHAT THE MANUAL STATES YOU GUYS DID THIS THE WRONG WAY!!!! [:0][:0][:0]


Camshaft Chain Tensioner

CAUTION
This is a non-return type camshaft chain tensioner.
The push rod does not return to its original position
once it moves out to take up camshaft chain slack.
Observe all the rules listed below:
When removing the tensioner, do not take out the
mounting bolts only halfway. Retightening the
mounting bolts from this position could damage
the tensioner and the camshaft chain. Once the
bolts are loosened, the tensioner must be removed
and reset as described in “Camshaft Chain Tensioner
 
#15 ·
zx636boy said:
IVE JUST READ IT OVER AND I THINK ITS STATING THAT AS LONG AS YOU DON'T TAKE THEM HALFWAY OUT YOU SHOULD BE FINE..SOME ONE WILL CORRECT ME IF IM WRONG[:M32]
I believe you just unscrew it 1-3 mm until you hear 1 click. Re-tighten it, then start it up. If it's still too loud. Unloosen another 1-3 mm until you hear another click, and then tighten it up again. As long as you just do it 1 click at a time you should be fine.

I don't think you'll need more than 1 click, and I highly doubt you'll need more than 2. Just make sure you tighten it back up everytime before you start it up, and of course, don't do this while the bike is running.

I'm going to try this when I install my exhaust and PCIII. Good luck to both of us.
 
#16 ·
zx636boy said:
HEY I THINK YOU GUYS THAT DID THIS TO YOUR BIKE YOU SHOULD READ THIS. FROM WHAT THE MANUAL STATES YOU GUYS DID THIS THE WRONG WAY!!!! [:0][:0][:0]


Camshaft Chain Tensioner

CAUTION
This is a non-return type camshaft chain tensioner.
The push rod does not return to its original position
once it moves out to take up camshaft chain slack.
Observe all the rules listed below:
When removing the tensioner, do not take out the
mounting bolts only halfway. Retightening the
mounting bolts from this position could damage
the tensioner and the camshaft chain. Once the
bolts are loosened, the tensioner must be removed
and reset as described in “Camshaft Chain Tensioner
It says that because if your chain is already tight and you loosen the CTT and then bolt it back down, your chain will then be too tight and possibly damage something.
 
#18 ·
Great write up, Im going to do this when I change my oil this weeked. Are the bolts on the CCT torqued or just tightened as hard as possible.
 
#25 · (Edited)
Kawi Tick Gone! See Video PROOF below.

Adjusting the CCT worked for me, perfectly. I HAVE VIDEO BELOW THAT PROVES IT. Every Kawi owner should learn how to do this.

However, I did things differently because Slammd Sol's method didn't work for me. Try both methods and you're bound to get the same results. Don't hold me responsible if anything goes wrong, though. However, if you follow the directions, everything should be fine.

After taking off the right fairing, seat, and propping the tank up, the following tools were need for my CCT adjustment:

* 1/4" ratchet
* 6" extension (used on both bolts)
* universal joint (used on both bolts)
* 8 mm socket (less than 1" in length, 1" was too long)
* 2" extension (used ONLY on TOP bolt)

The connection of the tools was in this order:

For the top bolt:
ratchet > 6" extension > 2" extension > universal joint > 8 mm socket

For the bottom bolt:
ratchet > 6" extension > universal joint > 8 mm socket

I did not need an open 8 mm wrench (i tried using it on the bottom bolt, but it would just strip it)

Everything else was the same as Slammd Sol said. Mind you, this was a pain in the ass, but totally worth it.

Videos of Before and After:
(Ignore the rough starts. The choke was low and they were both cold starts)

Before: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCiggHpCT6E

After: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K3p0DgYu8s (i got too excited in this one and left the camera on a little too long :rolleyes:)

You can obviously notice a HUGE improvement. The bike purrs again, finally.

Btw, I can't login, (I'm NinjaForLife), I followed all the directions and then sent messages to the admins, and nothing. I can't even upload pictures to show you the tools and method I used. Whatever though, I just wanted to help out with this because I don't want anyone else to go through the trouble of figuring out how to do this or if it even works. God Speed. - Tony
 
#152 ·
Adjusting the CCT worked for me, perfectly. I HAVE VIDEO BELOW THAT PROVES IT. Every Kawi owner should learn how to do this.

However, I did things differently because Slammd Sol's method didn't work for me. Try both methods and you're bound to get the same results. Don't hold me responsible if anything goes wrong, though. However, if you follow the directions, everything should be fine.

After taking off the right fairing, seat, and propping the tank up, the following tools were need for my CCT adjustment:

* 1/4" ratchet
* 6" extension (used on both bolts)
* universal joint (used on both bolts)
* 8 mm socket (less than 1" in length, 1" was too long)
* 2" extension (used ONLY on TOP bolt)

The connection of the tools was in this order:

For the top bolt:
ratchet > 6" extension > 2" extension > universal joint > 8 mm socket

For the bottom bolt:
ratchet > 6" extension > universal joint > 8 mm socket

I did not need an open 8 mm wrench (i tried using it on the bottom bolt, but it would just strip it)

Everything else was the same as Slammd Sol said. Mind you, this was a pain in the ass, but totally worth it.

Videos of Before and After:
(Ignore the rough starts. The choke was low and they were both cold starts)

Before: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dCiggHpCT6E

After: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9K3p0DgYu8s (i got too excited in this one and left the camera on a little too long :rolleyes:)

You can obviously notice a HUGE improvement. The bike purrs again, finally.

Btw, I can't login, (I'm NinjaForLife), I followed all the directions and then sent messages to the admins, and nothing. I can't even upload pictures to show you the tools and method I used. Whatever though, I just wanted to help out with this because I don't want anyone else to go through the trouble of figuring out how to do this or if it even works. God Speed. - Tony
Anyway to post these videos back up? Link states video has been removed. :(
 
#28 ·
I wouldn't do it...Better it be loose and tick than too tight and quiet. Same with valves...Should hear the valves on my turbo bike since I have them set as loose as possible. But they're happy. I never had any problems with Kawi tensioners. I can't remember hearing of any Kawi tensioner failures.
 
#29 ·
i am amazed to hear some one say this...................

they usually last about 5000 miles and then the little teeth that hold the arm snap off and it just rattles and rattles , every honda and kawi i ever had needed to have the cct changed ..

the ape adjustable cct is like $40 and it will last for ever
 
#30 ·
Honda yes. I had problems with them but that's a whole different design. I did use the ape tensioner on Hondas. Never had any problems with Kawis. One had 38000 miles. Maybe I been lucky.

But that's not what's being done above. They're teeth are all fine, they're just overtightening it.
 
#32 ·
yes, this takes away the ticking of the cam chain as the necessary slack in the chain runs against the tensioner. an easier and more accurate/reliable/safer way of doing this is to remove the center bolt. take care in doing so as it holds the tensioner spring as it may shoot out upon removing the bolt. remove the bolt and spring, then insert a pin and push gently until you hear the tensioner click once. replace the spring and bolt, torque to 8 ft/lbs. this does the exact same thing, but without the risk of possibly over extending the tensioner.

the problem with doing this is that you're now putting excessive stress on the tensioner guide, which will increase wear on it AND the cam chain.

CCT failures on kawis are rare. i know this by being able to look back on 37 years of maintenance records for all the bikes that come through our shop.


i highly recommend against doing this. if the ticking worries you that much, get a manual tensioner from APE and have it adjusted properly.
 
#33 ·
the problem with doing this is that you're now putting excessive stress on the tensioner guide, which will increase wear on it AND the cam chain.

I made it click 1 time, how is that any different from what you're advising? Besides, I still hear a very slight ticking when I put my ear up close, so it's obviously not too tight.
 
#35 ·
i know my dealer replaced a BUNCH under warranty. mine was prob eligible for replacement, but never took it in.
regardless of what method is used, as long as its only one click, its going to have the same results. and no, too loose is not better than too tight. neither is good.

im not sure why the kawi ones fail. mine will adjust up, and be quiet, until i do a hard run. then its loud again. either its backing off a notch, or the chain is stretching that fast. i hope its not the latter.

ive got a used stock one here(thanks to jdgun13) and the teeth are PERFECT. so unless the stock spring didnt have enough tension, i see no reason for it to not work.

im working on making the stock one better, either adjustable, or with a stiffer spring.

and instead of an APE, which i heard is a pain to adjust. kawi makes an adjustable one too. and i think its a few dollers cheaper..
 
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