Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums banner

Motogadget m-unit help

6K views 9 replies 2 participants last post by  Zx9rb2 
#1 ·
Alright guys I'm new to the forum.
I've been doing a zx9r b2 streetfighter/bobber for a while now and have gotten to the re wiring stage.
I'm using an m-unit from motogadget which makes the lighting and accessories easy as pie but I can't quite work out how it hooks up with the starter relay. 95zx6r posted something about it a couple years back but has t posted here for ages. Just wondered if anyone had any experience with wiring one to ninties Kawasaki electrics.
I'm using the stock ignition, ecu, coils and switchgear.
Which leads me to the next question, does one side of the starter button go to earth and the other to the m-unit?
Any help is appreciated
Stew
 
#2 ·
Welcome! As for hooking up the unit to the bike and having it engage the starter... There are a few different ways you could do it... from the starter button wire to the M-unit then the starter postive wire to the M-unit or bypass the M-unit and run a relay from the starter button to relay and then to the starter.

As for your ground/earth question, no the only "ground" is on the kill switch, which basically grounds out the ignition coil to the frame. Hope this helps.
 
#3 ·
Ok sweet, well I'll get to the workshop tomorrow and have another go. If I put up a pick of the wiring diagram do you think you could label the wires you mean?
This is a pic of the loom as it stands, this is the second incarnation of this bike and I've already removed the clocks (replaced with a trail tech vapour) idiot lights and fuel gauge. Doing this to replace the lighting relays and the large fuse box.
Pick of the bike as it stands, space is pretty limited as you can see
 

Attachments

#6 ·
Right figured out how to get it to fire on the starter button with standard switch gear and standard ignition lock.

So far from the key ;
(component=m-unit)

White=lock
Brown=main power (on m-unit)
Grey=ignition unit/ecu

Starter relay
From the starter relay, with relay wired to starter motor and battery using the stock config, clip the wires from the plug that goes to the main harness from the 30amp fuse (give yourself enough wire to play with, I'm not taking credit for people who cut shit too short)

White=aux
Yellow/red=start (output side)
Yellow/black= m-unit earth

Start switch
Realised after a little looking that you need to wire the engine kill switch in series with the start button when using the stock switch gear. Otherwise your push button won't engage the m-unit. With a little imagination I think I can wire it back to the coils so it kills the motor when running, I am lazy though so it'll probably stay as it is. It's pretty cool tho because I thought I'd lose that feature.
Check the wiring diagram for this part (fuck always check it, it's my new bible) as a couple of the colours weren't as shown. all I did was;
wire the top kill switch wire to the bottom start switch wire.
The top wire from start then runs to the m-unit start
The spare wire from the kill switch then goes to m-unit earth.
The two wires to the m-unit obviously had to have extensions soldered to it to reach the m-unit.

Next is the bloody lighting and the charging circuit...
 
#8 ·
Well it's sort of close. I think this bike is maybe a little further on technologically than the m-unit is intended for. I'm having problems now getting a spark, how the hell do I get the proper setup to tell the ignition unit that all is well and fire the plug?
I've got plug one pulled and grounding to the motor to test but no combination I've tried seems to work. I'm zeroing in on somewhere between the start switch, aux on the m-unit and the remaining wires from the ignition unit.
The wires that are left from the ignition unit went to things like the clutch switch, ignition fuse and side stand switch.
Baby steps...
I'll have to wire the relative components to the place they are needed on the ignition unit ...
 
#10 ·
Got a little further on, took out the m-unit and reused all the old components but with new Bosch waterproof connectors.
Made up a seat unit to the old sub frame (I work as a composite tech at a fibreglass company so used old scraps from work) but decided to go with the steel one I made ages ago.
I also had a 4 cell varley li-pho battery, it was man enough to run the bike after a jump start but not start it. Had to buy a new 8 cell anti gravity battery.
It was a little thicker in size, but still small enough to fit in the seat tray, which is fucking tiny! Fired right up (note: try not to hook it up to the wrong poles? you will fry the 30 amp starter fuse)
Can't recommend anti gravity batteries enough. Kick ass service and top info from the guys at the other end of the phone. Top blokes!
Went with the plate on the side, it will stay that way around until I can find someone who can make a plate with the supplier info on the bottom of the plate (apparently it's a legal requirement) I've check the rules and the plate can be in this orientation with the lettering in 3 lines due to the age of the bike, it'll be the correct way for the mot but I'll take my chances with plod after that.
Don't give me the aero bs either, everything from the nose one back is one massive vortex, plus I have size 12 feet so it's usually in the dirty air of my clown feet.
Any tips on freeing up clutch plates would be wicked. It allows some slip and will idle and engage first gear with a bit of a kick and doesn't stall out. But I can feel the bike drive on when I come off the throttle. I've been told to ride it and it'll probably free itself up, I've also read that locking the rear wheel with the clutch in from about 15mph should work. Any tips?
 

Attachments

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top