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Targa "No Cut" Fender Eliminator DIY

70K views 71 replies 49 participants last post by  Actonite  
#1 ·
Got the Targa fender kit, and figured what the hell why not take some pictures along the way. NOTE: In this "No Cut" Kit there will be about 10 cuts performed. :buzzsaw:

Disclaimer: If you decide to do this it's your own responsibility to do it right, so if you mess up your bike or wire something wrong causing a dangerous short or loss your lighting system that is your own fault.

First of all remove the passenger seat and remove the 4 silver screws holding the fender on.

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Remove the black screw holding on the black side panel on both sides and remove both panels.

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Remove the screws holding on the rider saddle and remove.

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Remove the screws and black washers that are above and below the passenger seat lock.

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Remove the screw and washer on top of the rear fairing.

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Remove the screw and washer below the rear fairing and remove fairing.
Repeat for the other side.

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Remove the top cover to the rear brake light (push in on the tabs on either side)

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Disconnect the white brake light wire connector and the black license plate light connector

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Disconnect the left (black) and right (gray) blinker wire connectors

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Remove the fender and set aside for now

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Place the metal base pan underneath and align with the under panel. Use one of the smaller screws and thread through hole closest to the front of the bike.

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Then fasten topside with one of the small washers, lockwasher, and hex nut. Just hand tighten for now, and repeat for the other side.

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Take the license plate bracket have the side with a center hole facing up and thread with another small screw.

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Again fasten topside with one of the small washers, lockwasher, and hex nut. Just hand tighten for now, and repeat for the other side.

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On the removed rear fender, open the wiring clips and remove the hex head bolts holding the taillight to the fender.

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Connect the taillight to the base plate. Use a large screw with a thick 6mm washer and a thick vinyl washer on the underside. (Make sure the vinyl washer is push into the metal stick out from the taillight)

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Topside use a lockwasher and hex bolt, tighten securely. Repeat on the other side.

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Push the base pan as much to the front of the bike as possible and tighten the four hand tightened screws securely making sure to center the license plate bracket

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Fit the rubber grommet to the underside hole.

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Attach the license plate light and thread the wires through the grommet. Aim light toward the center of the plate and tighten securely.
 
#2 ·
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CUT the black connector off with wire cutters and expose the end of the wire. Trim the license plate wires and expose the end as well.

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Using the quick splice connectors place the exposed end from the bike and an end from the light in the connector (black to black:red to red.) Make sure that the exposed ends are properly placed so the metal piece is pressing down on exposed wire.

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Attach the turn signals to the license plate bracket with addition of the largest washer to the included locking washer and nut. Repeat for other side.

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Cut the turn signal wires about 2" from the stock signals and expose the ends of the wire. Then place the ends in the female bullet connectors through the small end.

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Connect the male connector into the female connector :eek:
(Green to Yellow: Black to Black.) I would use the gray stock connector for the right signal and the black one for the left.

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Place the heat shrink tube on the taillight top cover and shrink with a heat gun, or blow dryer, and try to fold the excess underneath.

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Replace the headlight top cover and attach the plastic accents. Bundle the excess wires with the provided zip tie. Then put the bike back together in reverse order. You will have 4 screws that used to hold the fender on left over as well as a plate and 2 screw from the taillight.

Here is a video of how the blinkers work

http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s1/UFFooFighter/?action=view&current=P1010038-1.flv

Final Pics

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#5 ·
Great job documenting this. However, it seems like a lot of work for a part of the bike I almost never notice except in pictures. I'll most likely keep my rear fender as that is less work, less expensive and I do get caught in the rain from time to time.

Tim
Tim, you'd be surprised at how much it cleans up the back end of the bike. The stock signals (and especially the license plate light housing) are huge, compared to what you end up with. Adding a solo seat cowl and removing the passenger pegs/mounts and installing Zartan's muffler hanger does wonders for what is otherwise a pretty cluttered rear end on this bike.

Nice work, Foozer.
 
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#7 ·
did you cover the metal portions of those connectors sticking out on the yellow and black wires? I think they should have shrink tubing or at least electrical tape to keep the wiring from shorting together if they are indeed carrying + and - voltages.
No I did not cover them yet because I knew I would be taking some of this apart when my permanent tag came in. I probably cut those clips and the quick splices and just solder them. Then cover them with some electrical tape.
 
#13 ·
Both sides should have grommets. You might have lost one after you removed the bolt and it could have dropped through the trunk area onto the swingarm area or could be stuck inside the rear fender. The original bolts that were used in those holes are no longer used and you will end up with those 2 bolts and 2 others left over, for a total of 4 unused bolts once you're done. If you can't find the grommet cut a piece of foam or neoprene rubber and stick it in there to lessen any chance of vibration. Those empty bolt holes threw me a bit at first too, but the rear fairing is supported in other areas and that connection is not vital and is covered by the seat or solo seat cowl.
 
#21 ·
Targa Kit Mods

Awesome write up... pics/instructions were so much more helpful than the text printout I got with the kit. I wasn't a big fan of the sticky plastic pieces that mount to the sides of the lower bracket. Actually I didn't like the bracket at all because it didn't like up anywhere near as well to the taillight as the stock fender. So I modified my original fender by cutting it off (tiny miter saw and some black shoe polish) and only used the license plate bracket. So if anyone is interested I will be selling the lower fender bracket, the incadescant light, and a good portion of the other accesories that came with the kit. I'm gonna go with LED license plate bolts instead. Haha, so I essentially paid $90 for a license plate bracket.

I'll post pics if anyone is interested... I love how it turned out.
 
#22 ·
Awesome write up... pics/instructions were so much more helpful than the text printout I got with the kit. I wasn't a big fan of the sticky plastic pieces that mount to the sides of the lower bracket. Actually I didn't like the bracket at all because it didn't like up anywhere near as well to the taillight as the stock fender. So I modified my original fender by cutting it off (tiny miter saw and some black shoe polish) and only used the license plate bracket. So if anyone is interested I will be selling the lower fender bracket, the incadescant light, and a good portion of the other accesories that came with the kit. I'm gonna go with LED license plate bolts instead. Haha, so I essentially paid $90 for a license plate bracket.

I'll post pics if anyone is interested... I love how it turned out.
can u post some pics if you dont mind
 
#28 ·
The updated Targa kit does not require as many cuts, and not heat gun stuff. It uses the same connectors that the turn signals already do.

I'd wait until the permenant tag comes in. I did mine with a temp tag, and it's a hassle to go back in and change the tag since the tag light doesn't separate on the outside of the back end.