Carburetor leaking fuel, help! - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-01-2009, 09:49 PM Thread Starter
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Carburetor leaking steady stream of fuel, help!

A little background story: I had to go to sea for a month, and didn't have time to put my '08 250 in any kind of storage condition, just kept her in the garage. When I came back, I tried to start her, but all it did was crank but not turn over. I charged the battery, and tried again. I started with no choke, throttle halfway open, then pushed the starter, just to make sure I didn't flood the bike anymore (after several unsuccessful starts).

Finally got her started, and as I was easing off on the throttle to warm her up I saw some fuel leaking from under the seat. After turning the bike off and taking off the seat and the left black fairing, I saw that the leak was coming from what looked like a drain hose placed just in front of the battery box. I traced it back to what looked like the top of the carburetor. I started the bike again, and kept her running, thinking that the leak would stop as the bike warmed up. It didn't, it was a constant solid stream, and I had to put a cup to catch all the fuel that was leaking out. As soon as I turned the bike off, the leak would stop.

With the bike off, I turned the fuel selector knob (whatever it's called on the left side of the bike) to Prime. The leak started again, and only stopped when I turned the knob back to Run. With the bike running, fuel would leak out no matter what position this knob is in.

So, how do I fix this? This is my first bike, and I've never had anything with carbs before, and Google is no help. Is it something I can do at home, and not have to go to the repair shop? Help please!

Last edited by RogueJestyr; 07-01-2009 at 10:42 PM.
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 12:00 AM
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Looks like your carb was flooded with all those cranking. You can try to drain the carb (valve under each carb) then try again.
btw, i thought with the bike OFF, petcock turns to PRIME, fuel won't leak out unless the hose is disconnected from carb? When I turned mine to prime with bike off, I don't see any fuel flow (through the clear fuel filter). However, if I disconnect the fuel hose from the carb then fuel will flow out in steady stream. Can someone confirm this?

Carburator sucks potato balls!!!
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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 12:29 AM
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sounds to me like you might have some debris holding the fuel valve needle open in the carb where the fuel enters. with the petcock in the prime position, try tapping the side of the carbs with the plastic backside of a screwdriver. It might dislodge whatever is keeping the valve open. If the fuel stops overflowing after you do this, you need to drain the carb bowls to get the debris out of the carb. leaving it in there can possibly clog your jets.

I know it sounds like a lot of work... the alternative is to remove and disassemble the carbs, which is tons more work.

One other thing you might try is to put a product called Seafoam in the gas and see if it dissolves the problem that's holding the carb fuel valve open.

whatever you do, be sure to drain any remaining stale fuel out of the tank and start with fresh gas.

you have a PM.
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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for the advice guys. after talking to a buddy at work, he recommended cleaning out the carbs. going to try the easy solutions first.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: i drained the carbs of fuel first. once all the fuel was out, i started up the bike. fuel leak still present. after shutting it off, i placed the petcock to Prime, at which time the fuel leak restarted, and tapped the sides of the carbs. the fuel leak did not stop until i returned the petcock to Run.

got some Sea Foam and put in about 1-2 oz. into the gas tank. i sloshed it around and waited over 5 minutes before starting the bike again. when the bike started, the fuel leak started also.

stopping for the night to do more research. what else can i try, besides pulling the carbs off and cleaning them? is it relatively easy to do, considering i have never done it before and have no experience working with carbs?
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 07:48 PM
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try starting the bike in the morning to see if the seafoam has had a chance to work.

if not... to pull the carbs...
DIY JetKit install/re-jet


to work on the carbs...
How do I work on the carbs? - Ninja250Wiki

good luck
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-02-2009, 11:57 PM
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Pull the carb you might as well rejet & pull air box out. Get ready for one hell of a good time.

Carburator sucks potato balls!!!
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 12:31 AM
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where is the fuel leaking from? the carb throat? a vent line? either way it's a stuck float from the sounds of it.. is it one or both carbs?
might be some shit fro mthe tank..

carb service is EASY easy easy as long as you're ORGANIZED. don't mix shit up. on your bike it almost doesn't matter if the left vac piston and right vac piston get mixed dup, but it's just good practice to segregate that shit and keep it all in order so all of #1's components get back to the #1 carb and so on.

i think the only thing i'd do is take the carbs off, remove drain the bowls into a clear plastic container, inspect the gas, (look for grit and shit and water) and remoce the bowls and look at the bottom of em.. see any rust? remove it with a carb spray or brakleen or something like that. thats also evidence of tank rust.. and probably the vause of the hanging needle.

remove the pin that holds the float onthe suspect carb and carefully shimmy it out. the needle may or may not stay wit the float. inspect the little tiny ass pin that rides against the float tab. make sure you can depress it and it springs back. inspect the taper of the needle face. there should be a sharp angle and point. NO radius or wear to deviate the straight edge of the needle's seat face.

remove the screw holding the brass seat.
using pliers, carefully twist and pull the seat out. it's o-ring sealed so you can reuse it.

blow that little screen out on the back side with compressed air after you note it's clenliness. it that shtis real clean, then concentrate on making sure the internal bore where the needle resides is smooth and clean.

if the seat fights you going back into the carb body, put just a touch of motor oil on the o-ring and twist it back in with finger pressure and reassemble.

when you put the float back in, use uber caution to not bend the tab. when you get the retainer pin back in, make sure the float rides smoothly.
bench test it by hooking it up to a bottle or aux fuel tank or some sort of contraption to feed gas to the ccarbs. keep the bowl off.. when you see gas, push the float up until the pin starts to depress in the needle. this should make enough pressure to shut fuel off.. of it should only take just a tiny bit more needle travel to do that. you shouldn'y hafta press hard at all to shut fuel off.. if shit still acts stupid, you might hafta doublecheck if the o-ring is leaking or the seat is sealing or whatever.. if the fuel flow stops and everything is satisfactory, reassemble carefulyl and ride.. go do wheelies.

you shouldn't need to sync on this job. you're not making a fuel change or maessing with jets or anything. as long as the carbs are treated with care and no shit is turned that doesn't pertain to the float bowls.. lol

good luck!
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 08:06 AM Thread Starter
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the fuel is leaking from a vent line coming from the top of the carbs. this line/hose runs from the carbs to under the seat.

also, instead of tearing open the carbs, can i just soak the whole carb assembly in carb cleaner, then inspecting for gunk buildup? wouldn't that clean it up as well?

Quote:
Originally Posted by whitehendrix View Post
where is the fuel leaking from? the carb throat? a vent line? either way it's a stuck float from the sounds of it.. is it one or both carbs?
might be some shit fro mthe tank..

carb service is EASY easy easy as long as you're ORGANIZED. don't mix shit up. on your bike it almost doesn't matter if the left vac piston and right vac piston get mixed dup, but it's just good practice to segregate that shit and keep it all in order so all of #1's components get back to the #1 carb and so on.

i think the only thing i'd do is take the carbs off, remove drain the bowls into a clear plastic container, inspect the gas, (look for grit and shit and water) and remoce the bowls and look at the bottom of em.. see any rust? remove it with a carb spray or brakleen or something like that. thats also evidence of tank rust.. and probably the vause of the hanging needle.

remove the pin that holds the float onthe suspect carb and carefully shimmy it out. the needle may or may not stay wit the float. inspect the little tiny ass pin that rides against the float tab. make sure you can depress it and it springs back. inspect the taper of the needle face. there should be a sharp angle and point. NO radius or wear to deviate the straight edge of the needle's seat face.

remove the screw holding the brass seat.
using pliers, carefully twist and pull the seat out. it's o-ring sealed so you can reuse it.

blow that little screen out on the back side with compressed air after you note it's clenliness. it that shtis real clean, then concentrate on making sure the internal bore where the needle resides is smooth and clean.

if the seat fights you going back into the carb body, put just a touch of motor oil on the o-ring and twist it back in with finger pressure and reassemble.

when you put the float back in, use uber caution to not bend the tab. when you get the retainer pin back in, make sure the float rides smoothly.
bench test it by hooking it up to a bottle or aux fuel tank or some sort of contraption to feed gas to the ccarbs. keep the bowl off.. when you see gas, push the float up until the pin starts to depress in the needle. this should make enough pressure to shut fuel off.. of it should only take just a tiny bit more needle travel to do that. you shouldn'y hafta press hard at all to shut fuel off.. if shit still acts stupid, you might hafta doublecheck if the o-ring is leaking or the seat is sealing or whatever.. if the fuel flow stops and everything is satisfactory, reassemble carefulyl and ride.. go do wheelies.

you shouldn't need to sync on this job. you're not making a fuel change or maessing with jets or anything. as long as the carbs are treated with care and no shit is turned that doesn't pertain to the float bowls.. lol

good luck!
PM me if you feel fucked.

Last edited by RogueJestyr; 07-03-2009 at 08:34 AM.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 07-03-2009, 08:36 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the links kkim!

well, at least the Sea Foam did help some, as the bike started right up this morning. fuel leak from the vent hose seems to be at a lower rate, but it still a stream.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kkim View Post
try starting the bike in the morning to see if the seafoam has had a chance to work.

if not... to pull the carbs...
DIY JetKit install/re-jet


to work on the carbs...
How do I work on the carbs? - Ninja250Wiki

good luck

Last edited by RogueJestyr; 07-03-2009 at 08:41 AM.
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