This is more of a product review/installation procedure:
Lately, I've been fine tuning my carbs a lot in pursuit of extracting as many horsepower as I can out of this little 250 Kawi engine. However, every time I pressed the starter button after swapping several mainjets, needle height position, etc. it drained the battery a lot--you can just hear it suck the life out of the OEM battery and see the gauge dashlight dim with every restart.
I then remembered there was a vendor who made aftermarket batteries that not only was stronger in terms of amp output and longevity but it also weighed 6-7 lbs less compared to the OEM battery--for those who are looking for more power in terms of speed, shaving off weight is key.
I have one installed in my 2009 CBR600RR but I wasn't sure if the vendor made one for the Kawasaki Ninja250R. I asked the vendor and he said the batteries are compatible with all bikes and makes.
So, I ordered one and here is my review/installation procedure.
This is what comes in the package: a 4 cell battery, 1 connector, and 2 heat shrinking sleeve.
According to the vendor
However my weight scale displayed 14.9 ounces but mine could be slightly off or his could be. Still it's VERY minimal and not worth arguing over.
Our OEM battery weighs in at 6 lbs and 1.5 ounces. Compared to the Moty Design Battery's at 14.9 ounces, our battery is FAT & HEAVY! I basically just shaved off 5-6 lbs.
Instead of trying to explain to you guys how these batteries are better I'm just going to quote the questions ask and the vendor responses:
Q: Can you use battery tenders/chargers on these?
A: Yes, battery tenders are JUST fine!! BUT your battery tender is now obsolete, they require truly NO maintenance. Pull them off the bike in the fall, plug them in in the spring...thats it!
Q: Are these batteries meant as a race battery or are these being used as replacements for the original battery as well?
A: Yes use them as original replacements or race. The cells are designed to last longer. The 4 cell will push a 55w head light for like 35 min, LEDs only you could do a few hours and it would still crank over. <---I believe he's talking about the ignition set at the "ON" position with the bike's engine completely turned off.
what you get is a 4 cell pack putting out 120amps. with a weight of about 13.5 ounces with the connector.
On with the installation!
It's pretty straight forward.
Just unscrew the 3 screws here:
Disconnet the battery terminals:
Take out the nut from the battery:
Slip the heat shrinking wrap over the wires on the connector:
Then screw the connector to the battery terminal that's on the bike: Personally I like to place a towel over the battery tray just in case I drop a screw/nut. If you dropped a nut/screw around the engine bay you know exactly what I mean by what a PITA it is to get it out.
Grab your hair dryer and heat the heat shrinking sleeve over the two leads. Your home hair dryer is probably not strong enough to shrink the sleeves. You may have to get an industrial heat dryer from Home Depot or any home improvement stores.
If you don't want to spend the money you can just zip-tie the ends like I did.
Now connect the connector to the battery.
Place the battery anywhere, any position you like. You're done!
The battery cost me $150. Though that may sound a bit high our OEM batteries cost close to $100 but I believe you can find aftermarket ones for less. But problems with those is you're back to square one--it drains just fast as the stock ones even when you charge it. At least from my experience they have.
Maybe he'll lower the price for a group buy...I don't know.
This is just an alternative for those in the same situation as I am and/or for those who are preoccupied with other stuff and the bike's just sitting.
Any questions feel free to ask. I'll try my best to answer them but again I don't know the science behind these batteries.
If you want you can contact the seller here: email@example.com