thereis a fuel switch on the left side kind of under the black triangular plastic, but it only has the options of On and Prime, i dont know if theres a true petcock anywhere
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You want to look for the carb float bowl drain plugs, one for each carb, after removing a hose to drain the gas tank and running the engine until it dies from lack of fuel.
One mechanic previously wrote that he got extra business in the spring from people draining their carbs for the winter, because the float valves and carb gaskets sometimes dried out and either changed shape or cracked, and leaked when new fuel was added.
He recommended leaving the gas tank and carbs full of stabilized fuel all winter, or for longer storage than one winter to drain all of the fuel, using a marine fogging oil for the cylinders, and using a 2-stroke oil to slosh around inside the gas tank to keep the bare steel from rusting. Add new engine oil and a new oil filter before storage, unless you want to trust a less acid synthetic oil to not etch the bearings. When you spray the marine fogging oil into the carbs while the engine is running, it coats the gaskets and float valves in the carbs and keeps them moist, like fuel normally keeps them moist.
Also it is best to tape plastic wrap over the intake and exhaust openings, to keep insects and mice out. Get the tires off the floor. Bring the battery to a more climate controlled place and/or hook it up to a charger.
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Last edited by Jeff in Kentucky; 11-08-2012 at 07:25 PM.
You want to look for the carb float bowl drain plugs, one for each carb, after removing a hose to drain the gas tank and running the engine until it dies from lack of fuel.
One mechanic previously wrote that he got extra business in the spring from people draining their carbs for the winter, because the float valves and carb gaskets sometimes dried out and either changed shape or cracked, and leaked when new fuel was added.
He recommended leaving the gas tank and carbs full of stabilized fuel all winter, or for longer storage than one winter to drain all of the fuel, using a marine fogging oil for the cylinders, and using a 2-stroke oil to slosh around inside the gas tank to keep the bare steel from rusting. Add new engine oil and a new oil filter before storage, unless you want to trust a less acid synthetic oil to not etch the bearings. When you spray the marine fogging oil into the carbs while the engine is running, it coats the gaskets and float valves in the carbs and keeps them moist, like fuel normally keeps them moist.
Also it is best to tape plastic wrap over the intake and exhaust openings, to keep insects and mice out. Get the tires off the floor. Bring the battery to a more climate controlled place and/or hook it up to a charger.
... You never cease to amaze me.
Petcock is under the left side black plastic cover (clutch side). Turn the fuel to off then drain the carbs using the allen bolt at the bottom of the float.
Jeff, he's looking for the petcock so he can turn the fuel off... otherwise the carbs just keep filling.
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Of course I'm generalizing from a single example here, but everyone does that. At least I do.
Petcock is under the left side black plastic cover (clutch side). Turn the fuel to off then drain the carbs using the allen bolt at the bottom of the float.
Jeff, he's looking for the petcock so he can turn the fuel off... otherwise the carbs just keep filling.
im not sure about the 08, but the earlier years had a vacuum valve. even in ON, no fuel would flow unless it was running.
now, this ofcourse presumes the valve is working correctly aswell.
but, if it truly has only ON, and prime, im ASSuming the 08 is vac valve also.
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I miss a true on/off/reserve petcock on my '09 250. My m.o. for decades has been to turn the petcock off a block or so before getting to the house to drain the carbs of fuel before putting the bike away. I never had a problem with gaskets drying out even with occasional use. The carbs didn't get gummed up because there was no gas left in them to evaporate- so no residue or shelac or whatever you want to call it.
With my current Ninja, I have had issues with poor running off of light throttle (pilot jet gunk) after the bike sits for a few weeks because you cannot run the carbs dry and residue is left behind when the fuel evaporates. My fix for this is pretty simple...I take the cheapest fuel additive I can find on sale (active ingredient- petroleum distillates) and add a couple of ounces each time I fill up the tank. This concentration is diluted from the recommendation on the bottle, but it's enough to keep crud from forming in the tiny orofices and smaller jet openings in the 250 even if I don't ride for a few weeks. Problem solved.
if the 08 ninja ex250 has a fuel petcock where the eff is it ?
Linear Mode
