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Old 11-24-2012, 06:11 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Anyone had to helicoil the oil drain plug?

Picked up a used 250. Among the problems I've found so far is the dumbasses stripped the drain plug.

Is there a how to somewhere on fixing this? Or does anyone know what size helicoil tap I need to use to keep the stock drain plug bolt?

Thanks!
-Cody
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Old 11-24-2012, 08:04 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Used sump Aprox $100

Heli coil kit. Almost the same price.
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Old 11-24-2012, 11:40 PM   #3 (permalink)
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the more and more research I've done...it seems a time-sert or just a bigger self tapping drain plug bolt is the way to go. I'd really like to do it right...which I think the time-sert is the right way...but I also am at the point where I want it done and done with little money...so the drain plug is looking more and more attractive.
-Cody
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Old 11-25-2012, 12:23 AM   #4 (permalink)
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i personally think a time-sert is better than a heli coil simply because you can seal the outer threads and it'll NEVER leak. a heli-coil can shift a bit and work around, and expands at a different rate than the aluminum it's in. i can't be sure if its a 12 or 14mm thread, but its something like that. common noob bullshit on those bikes. or, if you want it under $60, mail it to me, i'll weld the hole up, and either drill and tap or you can. just slip me like 20 or 30 in the box for my welding time (which is a discounted rate since i love ya.. otherwise it'd be $45) and cover shipping and i'll be sure to build the boss up another .100 at least so theres some meat there for the bolt.
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Old 11-25-2012, 02:32 AM   #5 (permalink)
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My old dirt bike had a fucked up drain bung at some point and someone before me rewelded a new one one. Always an option.


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Old 11-25-2012, 10:05 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sev View Post
Used sump Aprox $100

Heli coil kit. Almost the same price.
+1, you want to remove the pan anyway so you dont get shaving inside your sump

You're killing two stone with one bird
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I would get more grip out of it if I were to ride on the rim than I would with a Shinko
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitehendrix View Post
i personally think a time-sert is better than a heli coil simply because you can seal the outer threads and it'll NEVER leak. a heli-coil can shift a bit and work around, and expands at a different rate than the aluminum it's in. i can't be sure if its a 12 or 14mm thread, but its something like that. common noob bullshit on those bikes. or, if you want it under $60, mail it to me, i'll weld the hole up, and either drill and tap or you can. just slip me like 20 or 30 in the box for my welding time (which is a discounted rate since i love ya.. otherwise it'd be $45) and cover shipping and i'll be sure to build the boss up another .100 at least so theres some meat there for the bolt.
There's no oil pan on these bikes I'd have to mail you the whole lower half of the engine...haha

What are your thoughts on just saying fuck it and using a self tapping drain plug?
-Cody
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:35 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by exalted512 View Post
There's no oil pan on these bikes I'd have to mail you the whole lower half of the engine...haha

What are your thoughts on just saying fuck it and using a self tapping drain plug?
-Cody
You are overthinking it, an oil pan on a 6r looks like a part of the lower engine but isnt

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I would get more grip out of it if I were to ride on the rim than I would with a Shinko
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Old 11-25-2012, 10:37 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exalted512 View Post
Picked up a used 250. Among the problems I've found so far is the dumbasses stripped the drain plug.

Is there a how to somewhere on fixing this? Or does anyone know what size helicoil tap I need to use to keep the stock drain plug bolt?

Thanks!
-Cody
My model year did you get? If you got a 2008+, just replace the oil cover. It's cheap cast metal and may not even work with helicoils or time-serts

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Old 11-26-2012, 12:17 AM   #10 (permalink)
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cody, if the shits not cracked and you wanna just time-sert it, you can drill slowly enough to keep the chips out, and when you thread it, coat the tap in grease. i've rethreaded spark plug holes before and thats what i did.. obviously, heads still on the vehicle..

any chips can be scooped out with a little piece of wire dipped in grease or sprayed out with the bike tipped over a bit and some carb cleaner. make sure not to get that shit in your eyes!
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