Cross-section of Gas Tank Required - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-08-2011, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Cross-section of Gas Tank Required

During a routine service, the mechanic removed the gas tank to check the air filter, after installing the tank, I noticed that when I fill the tank up full, it doesn't light the 'F' mark. According to the mechanic, the float in the tank must have gotten stuck when the tank was removed. I will need to send the bike back with an almost empty tank for him to correct the problem. He will need about an hour for this.

What I'm wondering is, how does a cross-section of the tank look like and is it possible for me to try and use some wire to try and un-stuck the float inside the tank?

Anyone with knowledge on this or photos of the inside of the gas tank for reference would be highly appreciated.

Thanks!

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 02:13 AM
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Just fill it up until it's full, then ride, Why does it matter what the gauge says?

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 02:24 AM
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Could be that the float arm was bent while the tank was off the bike. If the guage isn't showing full, that means that when the tank is actually full with the float floating on the fuel, if the arm is bent then it's position in relation to the potentialometer is incorrect for the level of the tank. But it depends on what sort of fuel sender is in an ER-6....

I've never had the tank of the ER-6. There is probably a opening somwhere to access the fuel guage sender. That'll be why he wants the bike back with an empty tank, less fuel to tip out and get everywhere when he opens the tank to check the fuel sender operation.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by purposeinlife_1 View Post
Just fill it up until it's full, then ride, Why does it matter what the gauge says?
I like to cross-check my fuel indicator against my mileage and since it only happened AFTER the mechanic worked on my bike, so why settle for something someone else messed up, right?
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Originally Posted by iTwin View Post
Could be that the float arm was bent while the tank was off the bike. If the guage isn't showing full, that means that when the tank is actually full with the float floating on the fuel, if the arm is bent then it's position in relation to the potentialometer is incorrect for the level of the tank. But it depends on what sort of fuel sender is in an ER-6....

I've never had the tank of the ER-6. There is probably a opening somwhere to access the fuel guage sender. That'll be why he wants the bike back with an empty tank, less fuel to tip out and get everywhere when he opens the tank to check the fuel sender operation.
I've been searching online for photos or discussions just to have an idea about this and I believe you are some-what right, the float could have gotten stuck in a different position when they lifted the tank (probably cause the tank was a bit slanted when they removed it with fuel inside). I guess I'll let the mechanic correct his mistake, I don't think it's something serious or damaged, was hoping I could solve it and save a trip (and time) to the garage. Thanks for your input!

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 10:57 AM
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Hiya Jame,

It's really easy to remove the fuel gauge from the tank. Part 52005 in the diagram below:


Unless your mechanic had some reason to remove it from the tank I can't imagine how he could have damaged it.

I don't think it can be serviced- either it works or it doesn't. If it's bothering you, you should probably replace it.

Ride On!

Tony

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by TonyBKK View Post
Hiya Jame,

It's really easy to remove the fuel gauge from the tank. Part 52005 in the diagram below:


Unless your mechanic had some reason to remove it from the tank I can't imagine how he could have damaged it.

I don't think it can be serviced- either it works or it doesn't. If it's bothering you, you should probably replace it.

Ride On!

Tony
Thank you very much for the diagram Tony, I assume the float is between part #52005 and #11060? He didn't say he damaged it, he said it got "stuck" when they lifted the tank up to get to the air filter underneath the tank. I can't imagine how it could get stuck maybe it was at an usual angle plus the fuel sloshing inside might have made it stuck in a weird position. Guess I'll have to let him open it up and see what's the issue. He claimed it was something not very unusual to happen when removing the tank.

By any chance would you have a picture of the actual float part assembly?

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
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By any chance would you have a picture of the actual float part assembly?
Part number 52005 is the float part assembly. The elongated round thing is the float, then there is the rod which goes to the mounting plate.

Perhaps tony (or somebody else) would be able to tell you what the resistance values should be. The rod is attached to a potentiometer so if you disconnected the two pin wire connector, you could put a meter on it and measure the resistance. the values would be something like 200 ohms=full, 50 ohms=empty. (example)
That way, you fill the tank, pull the plug and check the value and then know if the float valve is the problem or not.

Last edited by iTwin; 03-09-2011 at 09:10 PM. Reason: spelling
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-09-2011, 09:55 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iTwin View Post
Part number 52005 is the float part assembly. The elongated round thing is the float, then there is the rod which goes to the mounting plate.

Perhaps tony (or somebody else) would be able to tell you what the resistance values should be. The rod is attached to a potentiometer so if you disconnected the two pin wire connector, you could put a meter on it and measure the resistance. the values would be something like 200 ohms=full, 50 ohms=empty. (example)
That way, you fill the tank, pull the plug and check the value and then know if the float valve is the problem or not.
Thanks, I'm hoping it's just the balloon thingy stuck.

Is this what it looks like?


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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 01:34 PM
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I think it's probably more likely that the connector was damaged when it was pulled off or reconnected. It's possible that the problem is with the float, but it seems unlikely if all he did was remove it to get at the air filter. I'd check the pin on the connector and make sure the connector is well seated before buying a new float assembly.

If possible, check the readings with a multimeter.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-10-2011, 01:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bob_hackr View Post
I think it's probably more likely that the connector was damaged when it was pulled off or reconnected. It's possible that the problem is with the float, but it seems unlikely if all he did was remove it to get at the air filter. I'd check the pin on the connector and make sure the connector is well seated before buying a new float assembly.

If possible, check the readings with a multimeter.
I'd agree with this.

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