How can you tell if the frame is bent after a crash? - Page 2 - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by TonyBKK View Post
Just because you can't see any damage doesn't mean the frame is straight.
Agreed.

With the bent bits removed, which fool the eye, and after a check for anything obvious like cracked welds or wrinkled paint, I can eyeball a frame to see if it's straight enough to ride OK, with a bit of help from a straight edge and a bit of string if I'm not sure, but I've been at it for a lot of years. There's an element of 'close enough' because even a fair proportion of production frames would show non-conformances on a laser rig.

Rob
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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 06:55 PM
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If you do part it out let me know I need some parts from the left side of a er6n. jeremyhobson@live.com thanks
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 07:03 PM
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My bike took quite a tumble after last years lowside, it flipped serveral times and even put a dime sized dent in my frame but didnt misalign or snap any parts of the frame



how bad did your bike go down?


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I would get more grip out of it if I were to ride on the rim than I would with a Shinko
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 07:18 PM
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hey dealer price on the frame is only $877... if you are going to buy it find the best price you can. Take it to a shop, usually is about a hour of labor to figure out all thats damaged. $80 or so...

I can get you the best price!!! Motowheels.com Let me know what you need. Get your KawiForum Member Price on whatever you need!

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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ninjabadger4 View Post
My bike took quite a tumble after last years lowside, it flipped serveral times and even put a dime sized dent in my frame but didnt misalign or snap any parts of the frame



how bad did your bike go down?
Your frame is aluminum which doesn't bend the way steel does...

2006 GSXR 1000 aka "The BEAST"
2009 Kawasaki ER6n "RR"

2010 Lime Green Ninja 650R!- SOLD :-(
2011 Versys has arrived!
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-15-2011, 10:47 PM Thread Starter
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1000 miles and no insurance- ouch!

Again, I just don't see how it will make economic sense to fix your bike. A new frame is going to cost you around $1000 plus shipping. Have you figured out how much you'll have to spend for new forks, triples, and other busted parts?

This is not a DIY project if you don't possess all the necessary tools and skills. Go through the shop manual and start making a list of all the tools you'll need. Add that to the cost.

How much would a shop charge to tear down the bike, swap your frame and put the bike back together? Why don't you ask?

Shop rates vary, but this would be a 10-12 hour job at the minimum, assuming it goes smoothly, which with a crashed vehicle is never guaranteed.

You're looking at a serious money pit bro. I still recommend you part it out, or if that's not possible, just sell it as is to someone who will part it out. Depending on the price someone can make a tidy profit parting out your bike.

Good luck! Hope you'll throw down for insurance on your next ride!

T
(Used) frames here go for about $300-400 shipped here. 10-12 hrs isn't bad, and I can get the 636 front for about $600-700. So for $2500 or so I could have my bike back w/the 636 front... which would be the worst case scenario, but even still, $5500 for a 650R w/1000 miles and a 636 front end is not an awful deal (I got the bike for $3K).

The other thing is I don't have the space or time to deal w/parting out, and I don't know who would want to buy this bike w/frame damage. I mean unless I could get like $2K for it, which is prob not reasonable. I'd rather just rebuild it.

An appraiser is coming to check it out Monday... that's gonna be the moment of truth.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 12:15 AM
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You're rolling the dice when you buy a used frame bro- good luck!

2006 GSXR 1000 aka "The BEAST"
2009 Kawasaki ER6n "RR"

2010 Lime Green Ninja 650R!- SOLD :-(
2011 Versys has arrived!
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 06:00 AM
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If it's an insurance job the cost of the frame isn't the issue - it's the cost of the rebuild time.

If you're doing it yourself, the numbers are different.

One problem here is that if you've claimed on your insurance and opted to rebuild after an insurance offer on a total loss basis, the bike will be on the insurance database as an economic write off. That makes it very difficult to sell on and difficult to insure other than third party (liability) only.

Rob
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 11-16-2011, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williamr View Post
If it's an insurance job the cost of the frame isn't the issue - it's the cost of the rebuild time.

If you're doing it yourself, the numbers are different.

One problem here is that if you've claimed on your insurance and opted to rebuild after an insurance offer on a total loss basis, the bike will be on the insurance database as an economic write off. That makes it very difficult to sell on and difficult to insure other than third party (liability) only.

Rob
Damn, that's a good point as well. Well, we will see what happens
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