2012 Kawasaki Ninja 650 Pair Valve Plug - Page 4 - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #31 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 02:26 AM Thread Starter
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So I plugged my valve using the info, reduced the backfire by about 80 percent but also reduced the volume of my new exhaust quite a bit wich was disappointing, I'm going to unplug pair & test it with my juice box this weekend before I decide if I'm going to keep pair plugged
Let us know how you end up leaving it and how it performs. I preferred mine plugged and didn't need to install the smaller silencer tip in my TwoBro's. I felt that the exhaust was too loud without the PAIR valve being plugged. I'm also running a Bazzaz fuel controller.
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post #32 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 12:23 AM
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I ended up leaving PAIR unplugged for now, juice box pro really squared things away on the bike, still a small amount of pop on deceleration when in low gear high rpm... But overall it's about 95 percent gone so I don't feel a need to replug, exhaust seemed really loud first few days but I'm guessing that was just because I was used to hearing the quiet stock muffler, bikes running strong and very smooth with the TBR full exhaust and juice box pro, your tutorial was very helpful
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post #33 of 39 (permalink) Old 10-28-2012, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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I ended up leaving PAIR unplugged for now, juice box pro really squared things away on the bike, still a small amount of pop on deceleration when in low gear high rpm... But overall it's about 95 percent gone so I don't feel a need to replug, exhaust seemed really loud first few days but I'm guessing that was just because I was used to hearing the quiet stock muffler, bikes running strong and very smooth with the TBR full exhaust and juice box pro, your tutorial was very helpful
Nice to hear everything is working good for you. Ride Safe!
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post #34 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-03-2012, 01:37 AM
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The poping and after fire is starting to get annoying on descent, I took out db killer and will re plug my PAIR tomorrow, well see how things sound


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post #35 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-05-2012, 07:47 AM
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Nice write up but please add that the negative battery terminal should be disconnected before the tank gets removed.
Rare that any fuel spilled will still be there come reassembly but it's best not to take the risk
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post #36 of 39 (permalink) Old 11-06-2012, 12:24 AM Thread Starter
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Nice write up but please add that the negative battery terminal should be disconnected before the tank gets removed.
Rare that any fuel spilled will still be there come reassembly but it's best not to take the risk
Thanks for the suggestion. I've added the following line to the document:
"Before removing hoses or the gas tank, take the precaution of disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery."
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post #37 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-06-2012, 03:08 AM
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Also, isn't there a step missing? Aren't there two ring fasteners that need to be loosened as well in order to remove the bottom half of the airbox? If not, I swear there's something connecting it that's keeping me from being able to lift it up!
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post #38 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 04:38 PM Thread Starter
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Also, isn't there a step missing? Aren't there two ring fasteners that need to be loosened as well in order to remove the bottom half of the airbox? If not, I swear there's something connecting it that's keeping me from being able to lift it up!
There is nothing more than disconnecting the hoses in order to lift the lower part of the airbox up and out. Specifically, the hose that connects to the center part of the engine directly under the airbox that has the metal retention clip. It's on page 9 of the document. You can access it from the side of the engine.
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post #39 of 39 (permalink) Old 12-07-2012, 08:23 PM
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That retention ring on center hose dosnt even really need to be messed with, my hose slid off w out even disturbing it, also please note that the bottom of the air box actualy snaps on to the throttle bodies


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