Heck yea that's some mileage. I've had my 2012 sense march and only have 1200 miles on it, technically not even broken in yet
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Try riding it.
I consider myself a very low mileage rider these days at about 8,000 a year. I used to do 35,000. 1,000 a month is a reasonable not to high mileage imo.
Valve check, I think should be at 26,000 miles. Owner's manual and service manual are different. Once the valves are settled there's very little wear - I only changed about three shims in total over two bikes I kept for over 100K miles each. I think there should be a check as part of the first service when the new motor has bedded down, then they can be left for a long while. Brake fluid should be changed every two years irrespective of mileage because it's hygroscopic. Moisture can cause excessive brake fade under hard use.
Look on the bright side. On my Triumph valve check is at 12k miles and the motor has to dropped. Service time is 7 hours. That's expensive. Guess how many miles my Triumph has done lol.
Location: Bangkok Thailand. Born and raised in Southampton, Hampshire, England.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williamr
Try riding it.
I consider myself a very low mileage rider these days at about 8,000 a year. I used to do 35,000. 1,000 a month is a reasonable not to high mileage imo.
Valve check, I think should be at 26,000 miles. Owner's manual and service manual are different. Once the valves are settled there's very little wear - I only changed about three shims in total over two bikes I kept for over 100K miles each. I think there should be a check as part of the first service when the new motor has bedded down, then they can be left for a long while. Brake fluid should be changed every two years irrespective of mileage because it's hygroscopic. Moisture can cause excessive brake fade under hard use.
Look on the bright side. On my Triumph valve check is at 12k miles and the motor has to dropped. Service time is 7 hours. That's expensive. Guess how many miles my Triumph has done lol.
Rob
LOL, i'm guessing low....?
What Triumph is it BTW?
i'm almost at 15k with my 2007, do you think I should have the valves looked at by dealership soon? Or should i wait until the 20-24k?
About how much would a dealership charge for this service?
If it were me, I would... just for peace of mind. (assuming you are 15k miles, not kilo). Don't rush off for it... but at your next oil change. My shop said I had stretched the valves, so they weren't closing all the way. It may be all mental, but it felt like it ran a little better once I got it back.
I didn't have mine done at a dealer, so not sure on cost. The shop I went to did a bunch of stuff at the same time as a tune-up package (highlights being adjust valves, plugs, wires, sync throttle bodies, plus some other stuff) $480. Not sure if they are the cheapest, but the work is good, the service is great, and i haven't liked any of the dealers I've tried in my area.
Location: Bangkok Thailand. Born and raised in Southampton, Hampshire, England.
Posts: 570
Quote:
Originally Posted by chevy42083
If it were me, I would... just for peace of mind. (assuming you are 15k miles, not kilo). Don't rush off for it... but at your next oil change. My shop said I had stretched the valves, so they weren't closing all the way. It may be all mental, but it felt like it ran a little better once I got it back.
I didn't have mine done at a dealer, so not sure on cost. The shop I went to did a bunch of stuff at the same time as a tune-up package (highlights being adjust valves, plugs, wires, sync throttle bodies, plus some other stuff) $480. Not sure if they are the cheapest, but the work is good, the service is great, and i haven't liked any of the dealers I've tried in my area.
It can't hurt to have them checked...... Hold on, yes it can, it'll hurt your wallet!
How did that garage justify 'stretched valves'??
If your valves were stretched (highly unlikely) they should have been replaced which would have cost $0000's and you would most certainly of noticed a huge difference in performance after the work was done, certainly no 'mental trickery', it would have gain alot more BHP.
Unless you are tracking your bike often i'd stick to the Kawasaki recommended valve check intervals
If it were me, I would... just for peace of mind. (assuming you are 15k miles, not kilo). Don't rush off for it... but at your next oil change. My shop said I had stretched the valves, so they weren't closing all the way. It may be all mental, but it felt like it ran a little better once I got it .
Valves dont stretch. The seats wear, so the clearance between the valve and the cam closes and then they don't sit right down into the seat. If they're left like that the seats burn.
The rate of seat wear is tiny though, but bikes can leave the factory with the clearances set too close, and they change as a new motor settles down. That's why I think they should be checked early in the life of an engine, but once adjusted they won't normally need any more attention for a long time.
Valve check on the 650 is fairly quick and easy, although if any need adjusting it's a bit more involved as that means removing the camshafts to change the shims.
karl - the Triumph is a Street Triple R. 11,500 on the clock, so as it has to in for a regulator recall it's being serviced as well. £400 - 450 for the service. Next service it'll be out of warranty so I'll have to weigh up whether I'd rather lose the money or lose a full weekend.
I have had mine since August and have 2k on my baby right now, but I did wreck her in Sept after a semi slammed on their brakes in front of me and I low sided going down the highway... needless to say, I was down for Sept and all of October. Just got back to riding last week. Felt freaking awesome. I will get some miles on her since I commute to work 3-4 days a week on it.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by williamr
Valves dont stretch. The seats wear, so the clearance between the valve and the cam closes and then they don't sit right down into the seat. If they're left like that the seats burn.
The rate of seat wear is tiny though, but bikes can leave the factory with the clearances set too close, and they change as a new motor settles down. That's why I think they should be checked early in the life of an engine, but once adjusted they won't normally need any more attention for a long time.
Valve check on the 650 is fairly quick and easy, although if any need adjusting it's a bit more involved as that means removing the camshafts to change the shims.
karl - the Triumph is a Street Triple R. 11,500 on the clock, so as it has to in for a regulator recall it's being serviced as well. £400 - 450 for the service. Next service it'll be out of warranty so I'll have to weigh up whether I'd rather lose the money or lose a full weekend.
Rob
Valve stems actually do stretch(more so on engines with titanium valves than steel), it's a combination of valve seat and face wear and stem stretch that diminishes clearance over time.
Also wrong. It depends how the bike is ridden more than anything, but they should always be checked at the prescribed intervals at the least.
I said they don't normally need any attention - which is true. I didn't say not to check them.
On the two bikes that I kept for over 100K miles each I replaced a total of three shims, two on the 650 and one on the 900, in each case at around 25K miles.
As the valve stems are hammered during the opening cycle and stretched on closing it seems that the two would more or less cancel out, probably with a bias towards stretching because of the action of the springs. I'd like to see some before and after numbers before accepting that the stretch is measurable.
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The last adjustment I did on my 10R I replaced/swapped 10 shims. Last one I did on my 636 I replaced/swapped 12 shims. Both of those were ~30,000 mile adjustments.
I have never done an adjustment on any bike that has required less than 6 shims in one sitting.
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