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FI light on with no code stored

18K views 18 replies 9 participants last post by  Antares 
#1 ·
Hi all,

I'm a newbie to biking and this forum, and am having an annoying issue with my ER6F, and hoped some friendly people on here might be able to shed some light :)

The FI light has started to come on fairly regularly, normally on way to/from work, which is a local potter followed by a motorway run. The light normally comes on after about 10 mins at motorway speed, and will stay on for the rest of the ride. When I turn ignition off and on again, the light goes off, and doesn't come on again until the next motorway run. Seems to come on more often when it's cold outside (less than 10 degrees or so) but that could be just me.

I've had it on the computer at my local bike shop, and there's no code saved in the memory. I've been advised it is probably either a fault in the dash or the ECU, both of which sound expensive to trace or fix!!

Does anyone have any ideas, or had this themselves?

Thanks in advance :D

Dave
 
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#2 ·
Are we talking 10 degrees Celsius or Fahrenheit? I ride mine down to the mid 20's F sometimes and notice it starts up slower and doesn't run smoothly for a bit if it's much under 40 F. I haven't gotten an FI light. I don't know what temperature these bikes were engineered to work at. Many U.S. riders don't seem to want to ride if it's even mildly chilly.
 
#3 ·
Hi,

Thanks NavyBob, it's in Celsius (as I'm in the UK (really should put that on my profile!) so not hugely cold, just cooler than the summer when it didn't seem to come on so much...

Today's update though, is that the main 30A fuse blew while cruising at 70mph. All working again now, and hoping it's a one-off due to age (7 years old with 15k miles) and not related with a dodgy electric issue...
 
#4 ·
My suggestion would be to remove the tank and airbox then check ALL of the connections. The 30a fuse shouldn't blow, probably a lose wire someplace. If you are somewhat handy it is not a big deal to strip the tank off and check all of the connections for lose/corroded wires. Beats paying a mechanic to do it.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Do you have a stock, or after market system??

The exhaust valve system is typically replaced for several reasons including the installation of an aftermarket exhaust that does not have the valve (most full systems and some slip-on exhausts), the valve or servo motor fails and needs to be replaced or removed, or the owner just wants a little more power.

Removing or bypassing the valve is quite easy. It can be accomplished as easily as removing the cables that connect the valve to the motor. The valve typically is spring loaded so if disconnected it will hold the valve in the full open position. Additionally, the purchase of a full or slip on exhaust system often eliminates the exhaust valve.

But now that the ex-up valve has been removed what do you do with the motor unit? The motor is connected to the ECU or engine control unit and as such the ECU will know when it is disconnected or not operating correctly. When this fault is detected a “code” will be thrown; usually this results in an FI light (fault indicator, or fuel injection system fault) being illuminated on the dash.

Source info: http://www.skutr.net/exhaust-valves-and-servo-motors-explained/
 
#6 ·
Hi mdr, thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately I have a stock exhaust, and the big problem with the FI light is that there is no code stored in the memory... Will check the valve though, make sure the wiring is all OK.

Actonite, will try and get the tank off at the weekend and check the wiring. The manual is at home, but do I need to drain the tank for removal, or are the hoses long enough for it to move out of the way while still 'plugged in'?

Thanks :)
 
#7 ·
Actonite, will try and get the tank off at the weekend and check the wiring. The manual is at home, but do I need to drain the tank for removal, or are the hoses long enough for it to move out of the way while still 'plugged in'?

Thanks :)
The bike is fuel injected and the fuel pump is in the tank so no need to drain it. Just be careful with the wire connectors and the fuel line.
 
#8 ·
Great, thanks. Should make it a load easier! On another note, are there any hidden clips for getting the fairing panels off? An RAC (roadside rescue) mechanic and I took out all the visible bolts and spent over half an hour trying to get the panel off to check wiring when the main fuse went, and still couldn't remove it. Admittedly it was in the dark while it was snowing...

If it's a loose or iffy connection somewhere, is it possible to switch on ignition, connect a multimeter across the battery terminals, and start wiggling wires until the reading twitches? Please tell me if I'm being simple and will short the bike! I'm fine with mechanics, but fairly new to electrics... ;-)

Will check around the dash too, as it seems fairly logical that the FI light may be linked to the main fuse blowing, so there could be a problem with the wiring to the light. As there is no stored code, could there be a short in the FI light wiring?
 
#10 ·
Thanks BKSteve, will hopefully have a look this weekend.

Just thinking logically (if I can this early in the morning...) if the main fuse blew but the other fuses are still OK, does that mean that the problem must be in a part of the wiring not protected by a minor fuse, otherwise surely the minor fuse would have blown?

Hoping for some warm weather this weekend!!
 
#11 ·
midlife, the main 30A fuse feeds up to the ignition switch and out to a whole bunch of other stuff before hitting the smaller fuses and even some circuits only protected by the 30A.
All it takes is a little worn insulation and contact to frame to burn that fuse.
Best of luck.
 
#12 ·
I've decided to get the bike into a local shop, as I just don't have the time (or the weather) right now. I've checked the regulator (disconnected it, then turned the key, and the fuse still blew, suggesting it's not the regulator that's causing the problem). Was just thinking over the weekend though, can I do the same with the ECU? Hope I'm not being dim, but if I disconnect the ECU, should I still be able to power up the electrics, but just not start the bike? This should check if the ECU is dodgy, which has been suggested as a possible cause for the FI light coming on with no code stored, and could have caused the fuse to blow...

Cheers :)
 
#13 ·
You might have resolved it now but I had the same issue last year. Would only happen at motorway speeds and the only way to rectify it was slowing down or switching ignition off and on. It's not happened since I took it in for a service. Dealer doesn't know what the cause was but thought it could just be a blip. I'm keeping an eye on it but I've had no repeat for 6 months


Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#14 ·
I live in Philippines and have a '12 EX650 with 19k kms on..yesterday I changed the fan fuse because the fan was not running and the bike was running hot..after I replaced the fuse and tried to start the bike,I didnt hear the whirring sound of the fuel pump and the bike will not start,also the the engine light comes on after the ignition is on for a few seconds..any help please!.
 
#15 ·
Hi DarPac, is that the engine light coming on? I was told also that it's just a blip, but now I've got the problem with the main fuse, the engine light has taken a back seat. As the electrical problem is somewhere around ignition / instrument panel / main loom I'm hoping that perhaps the two are connected. Either way, I'll feed back when I get the shorting problem solved.

50Gunner, might be worth starting a new thread for your query, as it's not really related to this topic :) I assume that your problem is linked to whatever you did with the fan or fuses, so may be worth doing a basic check of all fuses (don't know offhand whether the fuel pump has a separate fuse) and connectors around the fuse box just in case you disturbed something. I know I'm probably telling you what you already know...
 
#16 ·
Update: The bike shop has told me they found a rubbed wire beneath the fuel tank with a tiny bit of the insulation worn through, hence the intermittent issue. Touching the wire on the fuel tank blew the main fuse, so it looks like problem solved. Only time will tell if FI light issue is linked, but will feed back for you DarPaC if it is, so that you can check your wiring before you get the fuse blowing...

Thanks for all the help and advice on this one all :)
 
#17 ·
Sorry for resurrecting this thread.
I have this same FI issue but with me i can specifically tell what causes just not why.
it only ever comes on in 2 scenarios:
70mph dead on in 6th gear or 60mph dead in 5th gear. I think it might be RPM related since in both scenarios the bike sits around the 5k mark. I have tested and this doesn't seem to happen in any other gear and speed. It also requires me sitting at that speed for a length of time, even slight throttle variations and it will not come on, riding dynamically it will never come on. it's only when I use my "manual cruise control" at 70mph on the motorway. When the FI light pops on nothing changes and bike rides still just as it did up to that point. I had this issue come on around the last time I fitted new tyres, I know this is weird but that's the only common thing I can think of. I put new Michelin Power 5s on recently and only since then I started getting this issue again, but since then I've also replaced spark plugs and chain and sprockets (stock gearing). And it still did it afterwards. As for FI related mods, I have a full system with O2 delete and Pair valve delete, though issue persisted before and after those mods back when I had my new Michelin Road 5s put on. Apart from this the issue is same as in the original post, FI with no code stored and is gone when you turn ignition on and off. It doesn't really affect anything but still annoying and I don't want the bike to think "oh shit something is wrong" when there really isn't anything. I however am not blowing any fuses and already did a basic check and didn't see any wires' insulation being worn through or such. Insulation on one of my coils is broken but it doesn't seem to cause any misfiring and it has been that way for a while so I don't see that being the immediate issue either.
 
#18 ·
I dropped my bike jist barely cuz some lady almost hit me at the gas station and when i got it back up, i was trying to start it and the FI light comes up when im trying to start it. Then i turned it off completely waited a ming and put the key back in and started it right back up. What did that mean???
 
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