DIY - Adjusting Valves on '08+ 250r (WITH Pictures)

VeX · Nov 11, 2008

Ok, so I've checked my valve clearances and the exhaust valves are all too tight. To adjust this it's not as simple as with OHV engines and you have to remove the cams. To accomplish THIS:

Step 1 - Remove the CCT

Remove the 10mm center bolt in the Camshaft Chain Tensioner. Then remove the (2) outer 8mm bolts. The CCT should pull out easily.

Step 2 - Time the engine

Turn the engine over (again use a 14mm socket and turn clock-wise). You're going to look in the alternator cover inspection hole (the little hole about 6 inches above THIS hole) until you see "2|T" in the middle.

I couldn't for the life of me get a good picture of this. Either there was too much light and it would create a glare, or like this not enough light to see the markings. Oh well.

With any 4-stroke engine you'll hit "2|T" TWICE per complete engine cycle. I made sure that I had the engine on "2|T" (which is cylinder #2 at TDC) at the end of i's compression stroke. The camshafts should line up as you can see in the picture above. Notice the two white dots face eachother? Timed!

Step 3 - Loosen camshaft cap bolts.

These little 8mm bastards are pretty tight, but still exercise care when removing them. I always suggest when removing and installing camshaft caps to use a 'crossing' pattern instead of simply removing one cap at a time.

Step 4 - Loosen camshaft top-chain guide/caps

Then you can remove the camshaft caps:

WATCH OUT here:

Notice the (4) outter and (2) inner dowel pins? They're not pressed in, but they are 'floating'. Meaning you need to be careful when pulling the camshaft caps that these don't come out (and then fall into the engine). They're there to keep the camshaft caps (and the two center ones for aligning the valve cover). They WILL pull up especially if you don't lift the camshaft caps up evenly.

Anywho...

Step 5 - Remove camshafts

Oh joy of joys! If you push on the chain a little it should push the camshaft tensioner outward and put some slack into the chain. Lift the chain away from one sprocket at a time and remove the camshaft. Afterwards drape the chain over the side of the head so you don't have to fish it out of the engine later

.

Step 6 - Remove tappets

They'll wiggle out (some of them might need some needle nose plier assistance). You can see I've removed one of the exhaust valve tappets here. I've popped the shim loose and you can see it laying inside the cover. They'll all stick to the tappet which is handy as you don't have to worry much about them falling into the engine while you remove them.

Important - Put them caps in ORDER

I've just tossed them all on a piece of carboard in order. This comes in handy as I can write the shim thicknesses directly above each tappet.

Step 7 - Measure the shims.

Most people have dial calipers which work fine or...

I prefer micrometers though as they often have higher degrees of accuracy.

Now... DON'T get confused with the conversions. I measured the lash with SAE standard feeler gauges. I then measured the shims ALSO in inches. You can convert in the last step (The less conversion you do the less the room for error). While each shim should have a number on each side of it which translates to a thickness on a chart these numbers are hard to read. That's why it's still wise to physically measure them. When you have the new shims though you can rely on the printed numbers on the shims...

VeX · Nov 11, 2008

So to find the 'new shim' heights here's my math (ALL in inches):

Exhaust valve - Number 1 - Number 2 - Number 3 - Number 4
Lash = _______.0065_____.0080_____.0070_____.0060
Shim = _______.1112_____.1102_____.1112_____.1083
Total =_______.1177_____.1182_____,1182_____.1143

Intake valve - Number 5 - Number 6 - Number 7 - Number 8
Lash = _______.0095_____.0070_____.0080_____.0080
Shim = _______.1112_____.1112_____.1112_____.1112
Total =_______.1207_____.1182_____,1192_____.1192

Then you subtract what you WANT the total lash to be (in this case I'm looking for .010" on the exhaust and .0085" on the intake). This gives you your 'ideal' shim thickness.

Exhaust valve - Number 1 - Number 2 - Number 3 - Number 4
______________.1077______.1082______,1082_______.1043
Intake valve - Number 5 - Number 6 - Number 7 - Number 8
______________.1122______.1097______,1107_______.1107

NOW I convert to metric and round to match shims on Kawaski charts:
Exhaust valve - Number 1 - Number 2 - Number 3 - Number 4
_______________2.80_______2.75_______2.75_______2.65
Intake valve - Number 5 - Number 6 - Number 7 - Number 8
______________2.85_______2.80______2.825______2.825

Whammy!

Edit: I've gone to converting so that I can have the PERFECT inch conversions (for what the shims really are) to make the numbers even tighter.

Got things back together and here are some notable things upon reinstallation:

1.) Remove the two seals that seal the spark plug holes from the underside of the valve cover:

and set them over the holes on the head. I didn't do this at first and one moved and got crushed. This caused an oil leak which I discovered quick enough...

RE-installing the CCT:

You need to 'reset' the CCT before reinstalling it!! This entails removing the 10mm bolt and inserting a little flat blade screwdriver. You're supposed to turn this clockwise (which in turn causes the shaft to pull backwards into the CCT housing... This is tricky to accomplish in this tight area so I....

Held the little screwdriver with one hand and turned the housing COUNTER-clockwise (thus doing the same thing as simply turning the screwdriver clockwise). Once you can't turn this any more fully press the housing into the block and put one of the 8mm bolts in to hold things. THEN you can let go of the flat-blade screwdriver, install the other 8mm housing bolt and then lastly the 10mm cap.

WCN2 · Nov 11, 2008

Thanks again for the excellent pictures and explanations. But just to adjust valves this is a true pain and I think the biggest negative I know of concerning this bike. I would suspect a dealer would charge between $300 to $500 for this service. That really cuts into the saving money factor on this bike for those that bought it for economical reasons. Sure like my 2008 but I'm not looking forward to the first valve check/adjustment. My 1200 Bandit in comparison is so easy. My 1100 Guzzi is a 1 hour job at most.
Bill

VeX · Nov 11, 2008

Yeah no worries

That's partly why I document these things. It gives people an idea of what you TRULY have ahead of you if you opt to doing it yourself. I'd definitely not say this is one of the easiest maintenence items out there.

HKr1 · Nov 11, 2008

Woo Hoo, yanken the cams! Not something the average person can do

Cool you took pics dude.

WCN2 · Nov 11, 2008

Thanky Vex for educating me and other owners.
I appreciate your time an effort documenting the procedures. I really don't like going to the dealer for servicing as they don't provide the care and attention that an owner would. My other two bikes have a total of 170,000 miles on them. I've done all the servicing and minor repairs myself. I'm doubting that I have the skill and patience to do the same for the 250.
Oh well, Bill

VeX · Nov 11, 2008

Mixing and matching shims yields me with having to purchase 4 shims (at $7 a pop

!). Oh well I needed to do an order through http://www.cheapcycleparts.com anywho.

I'd point out that KEEPING all the shims is a wise idea so later on if you need to shim you can possibly have some on reserve. That and if you're going to be like me and just leave the bike apart while you wait for the parts make sure to cover the head to keep debris and cat-hair (They're curious animals) out.

kkim · Nov 11, 2008

jeez... what a POS setup. I'm really not looking forward to doing this... perhaps I need to slow down putting miles on my bike.... nah!

thanks again for the write up. let us know how the bike feels after you get it back together.

rep ya, if I could.

jihwaan · Nov 11, 2008

Damn Vex that looks like a big job to me.

One question, how did you check the valve clearance and realise the exhaust valves are too tight? I know I am a long way away from this myself (I hope) but I am always keen to learn. The only engines I ever worked on were OHC car engines, so this is all kind of new to me..

kkim · Nov 11, 2008

jihwaan said:
One question, how did you check the valve clearance and realise the exhaust valves are too tight?

lol.... http://www.kawiforums.com/showthread.php?t=125217

randomwalk101 · Nov 11, 2008

wow that's really involved. How much harder comparing to rejetting/air box removal?

aloh · Nov 11, 2008

man this looks pretty complex...

But i cant help but think that the motor could be finely tuned to run better. Must resist attempting engine diys...

kkim · Nov 11, 2008

aloh said:
man this looks pretty complex...

But i cant help but think that the motor could be finely tuned to run better. Must resist attempting engine diys...

spend your time fine tuning the jetting... you will be very pleased with the results.

Bluevitz-rs · Nov 11, 2008

That was fast.

Man, that didn't take you very long to tackle.

Well done again. And like you, I've done my share of car valve adjustments. I've found 9/10 times the seat will wear before the buckets or rockers or valve stems. Unless you've got lubrication issues, and nobody likes that.

oscarr · Nov 17, 2008

when do you have to do the first valve service? Dealer says 3000 miles is this true or is it a bunch of BS from the dealer? thanks for the info and write up...

kkim · Nov 17, 2008

check your owner's manual. should be 7.5K, I believe.

Kurosaki · Nov 17, 2008

haha, those cams are so cute and tiny.

VeX · Nov 18, 2008

Got my shims today and got everything back together. I tightened the cam-caps down lightly and double-checked the lash and things looked ++. The exhaust valves are now all between .0095 and .010. The intakes are between .008 and .0085. Right on target (which also means double and triple checking the numbers paid off). I timed the camshafts and PROPERLY torqued everything down the the specs listed in the Kawi manual. Then I rechecked the lash and nothing changed

.

I'd suggest writing down the shims you used in order in your service manual so the next time you check your valves you don't have to take the cams back out to measure the shim thickness (K.I.S.S.). That and I saved the 4-shims that I didn't need which might come in handy in the future. I included some notes about the re-installation in post #2 (such as installing the CCT and the hiccup I encountered). The bike fired up easily once everything was back together.

I warmed up the bike and sync'd the carburetors. The carburetors were now way out of sync so after adjusting them the the bike is in ++ running order. I'll have a 'ride report' perhaps tomorrow

kkim · Nov 18, 2008

VeX said:
Got my shims today and got everything back together. I tightened the cam-caps down lightly and double-checked the lash and things looked ++. The exhaust valves are now all between .0095 and .010. The intakes are between .008 and .0085. Right on target (which also means double and triple checking the numbers paid off). I timed the camshafts and PROPERLY torqued everything down the the specs listed in the Kawi manual. Then I rechecked the lash and nothing changed .

I'd suggest writing down the shims you used in order in your service manual so the next time you check your valves you don't have to take the cams back out to measure the shim thickness (K.I.S.S.). That and I saved the 4-shims that I didn't need which might come in handy in the future. I included some notes about the re-installation in post #2 (such as installing the CCT and the hiccup I encountered). The bike fired up easily once everything was back together.

I warmed up the bike and sync'd the carburetors. The carburetors were now way out of sync so after adjusting them the the bike is in ++ running order. I'll have a 'ride report' perhaps tomorrow

congrats sir.. I expect the bike picked up so much power from the adjustment You'll Be Able To Pull Wheelies Very Easily.

makes sense that the carbs would be out of sync afterwards. Now I'm thinking that's could be the reason why mine were out of sync from the early on.

good work, man.

Slakass · Nov 18, 2008

Just hope the average user realizes that this is not a necessary adjustment to be done for at least another 20,000km or longer. Kawi makes these engines super tight and maintenance free. The thing should run for a long time without requiring a valve adjustment. I suppose Vex likes to experiment and that's a great thing, he's shown us what to do when we hit that mark. But I wouldn't worry about it for some time.

And for those wondering when you hit some 20 or 30k, I would not let a dealership do this work. These guys are for the most pathetic and overpriced. I'd look around for a decent backyard mechanic that has a good rep. These mechanics usually know their shit and charge a lot less than a shop. A shop will pass such "mandane" jobs to their junior tech guy, the guy that works for 10bux/hour and is learning his way through. Not someone you want to replace your tire much less do such fine adjustments.

Now, don't do what I did to my old Honda XL600 and ignore the very evident signs when the valves do need adjustment. In my case I ended up with an engine rebuild after the valves had been ignored so long, they finally hit the wall and bent badly. Costly repair job.

kkim · Nov 18, 2008

Slakass said:
Just hope the average user realizes that this is not a necessary adjustment to be done for at least another 20,000km or longer. Kawi makes these engines super tight and maintenance free. The thing should run for a long time without requiring a valve adjustment. I suppose Vex likes to experiment and that's a great thing, he's shown us what to do when we hit that mark. But I wouldn't worry about it for some time.

And for those wondering when you hit some 20 or 30k, I would not let a dealership do this work. These guys are for the most pathetic and overpriced. I'd look around for a decent backyard mechanic that has a good rep. These mechanics usually know their shit and charge a lot less than a shop. A shop will pass such "mandane" jobs to their junior tech guy, the guy that works for 10bux/hour and is learning his way through. Not someone you want to replace your tire much less do such fine adjustments.

Now, don't do what I did to my old Honda XL600 and ignore the very evident signs when the valves do need adjustment. In my case I ended up with an engine rebuild after the valves had been ignored so long, they finally hit the wall and bent badly. Costly repair job.

where are you getting your info? my owner's manual says it's due every 7.5k miles, every 12k KM for you.

Slakass · Nov 18, 2008

I stand corrected then. And I'm glad you did this detailed DIY as it looks like this is something most of us will have to deal with. And seeing how much fun these bikes are, some of us may be hitting that mark soon.

And for those wondering: do not ignore this procedure. It may be a pain in the ass; it may cost a lot and you may be without a bike for a few days (if leaving with a dealer) but keep in mind that valves damage due to neglect will cost a small fortune. When this happened to the XL600 the bill would have been close to a grand (as per dealership prices). And that's a single cyl bike with a very simple engine (bike was a 86). I wouldn't want to know how much it would cost to replace valves that were damage by lack of periodic adjustment on a new Ninja. So do not ignore this step. If buying a used bike, definitely check on when it was last done. This step is similar to the timing belt on a car. Ignore it and you might as well sell the car for scraps, should the belt break.

This is the only major maintenance item this bike will need for years to come. Most bikes do require a bit more maintenance than the extremely reliable Ninja 250, so lets consider ourselves lucky that this is pretty it when it comes to aggravation.

mirabelli · Apr 24, 2009

OMG ... what a sick write-up ... THANK YOU!!!

(i'd rep u again if i could

)

1HardRyder4Life · Apr 24, 2009

So, Mr. Vex....perhaps I can entice you to help me adjust mine this summer lol? Never done it but I am fairly mechanically inclined and could do it with some help or guidance. Or maybe the factory service manual is good enough to supplement your DIYs, you think?

I dont have anything to measure the shims but guess I should invest in something.

brandonv · Apr 24, 2009

I wouldn't trust myself to do this to my bike!

VeX · Apr 25, 2009

Thanks for the comments

Hah. Measurement-wise the "tools" are some of the most common (and cheapest) tools around. A cheap feeler gauge set might cost upwards of $10 and a sufficient dial caliper might run around $15. Like the old adage goes, "Measure twice, cut once" the same goes to clearances inside of an engine. Measure everything 2-3 times and do things one at a time.

Hell if you're in the San Diego area and have everything apart I'd gladly pop by with a few tools and guidance

barmaley · Oct 12, 2009

Wait, what exactly must be done to adjust the valves, say they were off. Add shims, screw something in/out? I understand how everything is taken apart and put together and how it functions, i guess, but, how exactly does one fix the clearance to the desired distance?

VeX · Oct 12, 2009

Well it's detailed in post #2. You find the lash (distance between camshaft and cap) and then measure the thickness of the accompanying shim. If the lash is out of spec you have to put a shim in to either lessen the lash (thicker shim) or increase the lash (thinner shim). If you write everything down and triple check your numbers, often times you can swap shims you already have so you have to pick up the bare minimum number of shims. You don't use multiple shims, or anything, but the correct thickness one.

barmaley · Oct 12, 2009

those tiny little things are what keep the lash correct? so much friction and work on such little crumb of a metal? wow. So that's what costs $7 a piece, I see. One can't use a stack of washers or anything like that right? it'll melt/splatter inside the cap i suppose. Thanks for the awesome post VeX! and everyone

J-moges · Nov 20, 2014

So I'm going to be checking the valves sometime in December. Do I not need to use any sealant when I put the valve cover back on? This post and the manual don't say anything about it, so is there a rubber seal? Just trying to get everything I need before I start.

VeX · Nov 20, 2014

Yes. It's a rubber type seal. Note that in a lot of the pictures you can see it sitting on the head. Take note that when you drop the valve cover back on to make sure the seal is seated.

VFRman · May 16, 2016

I checked the valves on my 2009 250 today. It has 11,195 kms (6956 miles).

Exhaust: #1=0.009, #2=0.009, #3=0.008, #4=0.007

Intake: #1= 0.007, #2=0.008, #3=0.006, #4=0.006

#3 and #4 exhaust valves are tight but I am wondering if they would be ok for another 3-4000kms (1800-2500 miles) when I will have more time to work on it.

The bike will be used by my 16 year old son and I will be going with him on trips. He will not be going to the track with it until next year. What's everyone's thoughts? Thank you.
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DIY - Adjusting Valves on '08+ 250r (WITH Pictures)

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