Ask me a technical question....? - Page 23 : KawiForums.com Kawasaki Forums: Kawasaki motorcycle forums

whitehendrix · 07-02-2009, 08:38 PM

any switched power wire.. but be aware of how much power is actually pulled on it before splicing.. if the wire's got a 10 amp load on it, don't put the fan load on it as well.. you'll either pop a fuse or fry the wire. there should be an accessory lead fused at 10 amps all by itself under the seat near the battery.. not sure on your bike for sure, but i know on most kawis they have em.. mind you a motor load pulls 8 times at start-up as it does when running at full load. a 4 amp load when running will spike (LRA or locked-rotor amps) can pull as much as 30 amps or more deopending on the winding type and all..

the hot side of the horn button or similar electrical system would be ideal.

good luck, and thanks t-g for letting me steal the limelight.

wildacex187 · 07-02-2009, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tough-Guy

"Back-fire" is bad for any engine. The term "back-fire" refers to the fuel/air charge firing in the inlet tract, BEFORE the intake/combustion cycle. This can cause damage to injectors, injector seals, throttle/carb bodies, thottle valves, throttle valve seals, air-boxs ect.

"After-fire" is a term that reffers to a combustion event that occurs AFTER the combustion cycle, and produces an audible "pop, gurggle, or bang". This can cause damage to catalytic converters, silencers, variable exhaust valves, ect.

The circumstances that lead to either condition can be harmful to an engine regardless of fore/after-fire.

hmm i just changed my plugs and im getting "after fire". i noticed that my stock plugs had a bigger gap than my new plugs. im gonna gap them and see. what gap should i run? the bigger the gap the hotter the spark?

whitehendrix · 07-02-2009, 09:39 PM

.7MM is whats called for..

bigger gap doesn't necessarily mean hotter spark.. you may end up extinguishing it with too much.. voltage must overcome pressure to arc. the more pressure, the higher the voltage needed to arc. thus why vacuum tubes can work off only 3 volts or amplify milliamp or millivolt signals. flourescent lamps are under vacuum.. or any other arc-based light for that matter. (not incandescent)

so wit that being said, the 120-140 or so psi thats in the combustion chamber as a cranking pressure is many times that of ambient.. what works for ambient won't work under 120psi all the time.

i'd run the stock gap number.

as well, spark is a science all on it's own. too little leads to bad shit and poor operation.. too much does the same. a spark too powerful for it's application will actually blow the a/f mix away (the concussion in front of the arc itself.. kinda like thunder on a micro scale.) instead of lighting it.

Tough-Guy · 07-02-2009, 09:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wildacex187

hmm i just changed my plugs and im getting "after fire". i noticed that my stock plugs had a bigger gap than my new plugs. im gonna gap them and see. what gap should i run? the bigger the gap the hotter the spark?

Some how I doubt changing plugs is the reason you are experiencing after-fire. I suspect it has something to do with the Akropovich pipe and a bad tune/lack of fuel management. Unless of course you put in different plugs not recommended for the bike.

Mfromphilly1 · 07-02-2009, 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whitehendrix

any switched power wire.. but be aware of how much power is actually pulled on it before splicing.. if the wire's got a 10 amp load on it, don't put the fan load on it as well.. you'll either pop a fuse or fry the wire. there should be an accessory lead fused at 10 amps all by itself under the seat near the battery.. not sure on your bike for sure, but i know on most kawis they have em.. mind you a motor load pulls 8 times at start-up as it does when running at full load. a 4 amp load when running will spike (LRA or locked-rotor amps) can pull as much as 30 amps or more deopending on the winding type and all..

the hot side of the horn button or similar electrical system would be ideal.

good luck, and thanks t-g for letting me steal the limelight.

This is why I come to this site all the time, the guys (and girls) are always willing to help and they always have answers, Thanks Whitey and TG

wildacex187 · 07-02-2009, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tough-Guy

Some how I doubt changing plugs is the reason you are experiencing after-fire. I suspect it has something to do with the Akropovich pipe and a bad tune/lack of fuel management. Unless of course you put in different plugs not recommended for the bike.

the plugs i put in had the same number plus an H at the end. i dont have a cat anymore so i thought it was that. the flames are cool but i know its running rich. its a little hard to start at times (takes more cranking than usual). could it be a vac hose?

Tough-Guy · 07-02-2009, 11:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wildacex187

the plugs i put in had the same number plus an H at the end. i dont have a cat anymore so i thought it was that. the flames are cool but i know its running rich. its a little hard to start at times (takes more cranking than usual). could it be a vac hose?

No, it's running lean. Flames are cool but are an indication your bike is not running a proper AFR. Not a vac hose.

whitehendrix · 07-02-2009, 11:59 PM

TG!! good to see ya homey.

and ya.. lean is mean..

leeeaaann is meeaaan. wipes ring out wit a quickness.

wildacex187 · 07-03-2009, 12:41 AM

lean makes it shoot fire? i thought when fire came out exhaust it was from unburnt fuel igniting in the exhaust? i'll try running a map off the dynojet website and see if that helps. thanx

whitehendrix · 07-03-2009, 12:51 AM

any abnormal running condition renders abnormal shit like that..lol

it deals as well with EGT's reaching a staggering number. EGT (exhaust gas temperature) operates on a bellcurve with respect to AFR.lets say you're at 1500*F.. that can be lean OR rich. there comes a point to where the peak efficient EGT is exceeded with a lean or rich condition.. goes the other way too.. you'll see them drop off due to slobbery rich AFR or stupid lean ones.. both EGT drops are due to lack of combustion efficiency. rich is just simply too much fuel and lean is not enough...

could be a few things at this point.. being i cant see or smell it and TG cant hook up a gas analyzer we're stuck guessing..lol

what kinda throttle response and all are you getting? whats the exhaust look like under load? gray? black? can't see it at all? bike runnin hot? stumbles when hot/cold?