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When purchasing a motorcycle most like next year around march , how to haggle price ?

3K views 23 replies 14 participants last post by  goingtoscotland 
#1 ·
I want to spend at least around 5500 for otd with everything ( maybe a helmet or something for free haha) nothing more , less would be nice on price . What do you think ? I live in Florida that might be a problem since wether typically is good. First bike .

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#2 ·
Probably depends on if you wanted a new bike or a used bike, where you were buying it from and what bike you were buying.

You haggle by saying, "I can't spend more than this." The likelyhood that will work is not huge.
 
#3 ·
youre gunna have to give more info than that.

unless the dealer is in desperate need of your purchase, they dont have to give you shit; free items or price off. I've never heard of "haggling" dealers down unless you know the person or the person is being nice/wants to get rid of stock.

if you're getting it used off someone, thats when you can actually haggle imo
 
#5 ·
I love to haggle. I buy cars and bikes for friends and usually get a job offer b/c I'm good at it.

Here's some pointers:
1) do your homework. whether it's new or used, find out the invoice vs. retail price. trade in price vs. private party, so you know how much room you have to beat them down.

2) have a good attitude, smile don't get emotional. always pleasant.

3) pit local dealers of the same brand against each other, don't have to name names, but do say another dealer offered me.... and let the current dealer counter offer.

4) always be ready to walk away. if you don't like the sales person or you don't like the price. walk away, leave. always can buy it tomorrow.

5) motorcycle dealers have 2 incentive periods, 1-15 of the month and 16-30, shop at the end of these periods, b/c the sales peeps get a bonus and so does the store if they meet their quota.

6) after you hit the rock bottom price for the bike, the dealer will thru in discount on OEM parts or service, like adding grip warmers, or the first oil change for free or at a discount.

PM me when you are close, I can help you. go kick some ass.
 
#8 ·
I love to haggle. I buy cars and bikes for friends and usually get a job offer b/c I'm good at it.

Here's some pointers:
1) do your homework. whether it's new or used, find out the invoice vs. retail price. trade in price vs. private party, so you know how much room you have to beat them down.

2) have a good attitude, smile don't get emotional. always pleasant.

3) pit local dealers of the same brand against each other, don't have to name names, but do say another dealer offered me.... and let the current dealer counter offer.

4) always be ready to walk away. if you don't like the sales person or you don't like the price. walk away, leave. always can buy it tomorrow.
This cannot be stressed enough!!! One of the problems buyers face is they want the product so bad the salespeople can smell it, like a shark smelling blood in the water, and they will use this to their advantage. If you decide in advance that this is going to be a process that takes a couple of weeks you won't be as stressed out or stampeded into a purchase. Decide upfront that you are going to go in and talk but not buy, the first time at least. When they are trying to put the hard sell on you just stay calm and friendly but say something like "I want to think about it... or see what other dealers will offer". That will make them feel the heat instead of you.

If you walk in thinking you are here to negotiate and buy in one stop you will usually not get the best deal. It can be done but it is not advisable.
 
#6 ·
Im hoping I used haggle right haha. Maybe negotiate would've been better. But they usually mean the same. Try to get a good deal for you.(the buyer) But yeah I've heard people buying the 300 ninja at around 5400 out the door ! :0 I like the sound of that. Sorry it was my fault I didn't give enough information. Well I really want a ninja Kawasaki 300. Abs doesn't really seem neccesary. Sprorchid thanks :cool: I'll be sure to write you up.
 
#9 ·
+1 the walk away thing + just wondering, but have you ridden before? I ask because if you end up not like it or get scared of riding, thats a lot of money lost. you wont get back close to what you paid from the dealer if you decide motorcycles arent for you.
 
#10 ·
You're not going to get much if you're going for a 300. If you don't buy it for their price, the next guy will.

Again, don't be afraid to walk. Once you get up and start walking towards the door, they'll more than likely come after you to get you to sit back down.

If you're financing it, know that the dealer will be getting more money from the sale as the lender will give them a commission.

Don't be afraid of asking for anything either. After I signed the paperwork, I asked for and they gave me 20% off gear. Beforehand, I asked what they could do for me since years ago I got a Honda XR100 from them; immediately, he took $300 off on a 2011 Ninja 250R.

-Will
 
#11 ·
OP, if you don't plan on keeping the Ninja300 for at least 2yrs, then scrap the new appealing look and go for one of the '08+ Ninja250. You're better off spending an extra 500 into gear than the newest bike.
Why do you wanna take the depreciation for buying a new vehicle? Ninja 250s resell for the 90% of price you bought it for (if not dropped in between).

For areas with winter break (too cold) the best time to buy is now or until end of February.

Bikes are tough (especially Kawi, Gixxer and older CBRs) so I wouldn't be too worried buying anything used that doesn't look broken on the first impression. Even if it didn't get regular oil changes or chain care, worn bearings, etc. They keep going and with some TLC forget about the previous bad care.


I really wouldn't go for a brand new as 1st bike. If you still want new, do it with your 2nd bike and work towards that 2013 ZX6R or other brands.
 
#13 ·
:iamwithstupid:

OP, I thought you had posted in the Newbie section saying you had settled on a used 250? Either way, I think a used 250r is definitely the way to go.

A 300, let alone a brand new 300 will not hold its value like a year or two old 250r will. And with such a slight difference in performance, the 250r is wayyyy more worth your money. Rarely does anyone stick with their "first bike" so I would think you'll sell your first bike down the road.

As far as the haggling, DO RESEARCH. Hop on craigslist, the forums, local trader magazines etc to see what the going rate is for a used 08-11 250r. Then, you'll have a foundation to stand on when you decide to buy one. But paying $5,500 for a new 300 as your first bike just sounds, well, dumb. :dunno:
 
#14 ·
Oh, and to add to what I just said... I know you said you were looking at purchasing a bike in March, well if you are able to, i'd recommend purchasing one before the first of the year because after the first month or two of the year, the prices rise. 1. Because of tax returns and 2. Because of the approach of riding season.

I think in the Newbie section you said you had $4000 saved up already? You should be able to get a nice 08+ 250r for $2000-$2500, then use part of the rest for gear and maybe be left with some insurance money.

Moral of the story, if you CAN snag one before the first of the year, do it IMO. But make sure you do your research first! Good luckkkk.
 
#15 ·
I've always abided by these rules for me:

have CASH

Have your max amount you will pay and if you can't fathom walking away from deal, then don't even bother. You have to be able to tell a seller no thanks despite their hard sell (individual or dealers) if you can't walk away in good conscience then it's not for you.

Let seller sweeten the deal, as a buyer don't ask for extras or freebies, all it does is piss off the seller.

First bike (for you) buy used as others have said. But seriously asking how to haggle is purely up to each individual. There are no golden rules of what to do, it's always a wing it thing, but as long as you stick to your guns and price it still at the end of the day goes 50/50. good luck!
 
#16 ·
Flexxx yeah I did. I posted this before I posted that I settled with the 250. But yes I'm going with a 250r used. Would be a pretty dumb move to go a new bike as my first . Thank you everybody ! I will keep you guys posted and let you know when I find one and see what you guys think :thumbup:

Sent from my HTC Sensation Z710e using Motorcycle.com Free App
 
#17 ·
You are picking the worst time of the year to buy a bike. The time to buy is now. You can prob get a 2nd gen 250 for like 2000 right now.
 
#22 ·
I know for a fact that it depends on what you are looking at. The new ninja 300's are flying off the shelves so no one will be giving you a deal. But what you can do is start attacking those b/s fees. Stocking, transfer, dealer, those are all garbage. Doc and license fees and tax are the only valid ones if I am correct. And you could maybe even get them to pay the tax by lowering the MSRP by that "small" amount. The bottom line is that they won't sell anything they aren't making money off of so it's a bit of a crap shoot. But if you have the funds than you get peace of mind, possibly some free servicing, and some type of manufacturer's warranty.
 
#24 ·
I know for a fact that it depends on what you are looking at. The new ninja 300's are flying off the shelves so no one will be giving you a deal. But what you can do is start attacking those b/s fees. Stocking, transfer, dealer, those are all garbage. Doc and license fees and tax are the only valid ones if I am correct. And you could maybe even get them to pay the tax by lowering the MSRP by that "small" amount. The bottom line is that they won't sell anything they aren't making money off of so it's a bit of a crap shoot. But if you have the funds than you get peace of mind, possibly some free servicing, and some type of manufacturer's warranty.
You're incorrect.

The dealers DO have to pay for shipping.

They also occasionally have to pay the OEMs to actually have the bike on the sales floor until it's sold.

They also have to PDI the bike, and the mechanic's time isn't free for them.

All that said you can usually get them to take the cost of those fees off, but that doesn't mean the dealer's not paying them to Kawasaki or whoever they owe the money.
 
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