Location: Chesapeake, VA '06 ZZR fighter, 05 VTX-1300
Posts: 14,555
Hell I don't even remove the caliper. Remove axle and axle adjusters, push wheel forward, slip chain off, remove wheel. I keep the caliper bracket on the swing arm piece that holds the bracket steady (welded slab of aluminum on inside of swing arm).
Putting the wheel back on I sit on the floor behind the bike, slip my feet under the tire to hold the wheel high enough for the axle, slip in my spacers and caliper bracket, then slide the axle in. It's a bit of a balancing act, but it takes me no time to do. The caliper is only two bolts, but that's still one less thing I need to bother with.
Whether you need to remove the caliper or not depends on the bike, but I've never had a bike where I've had to break the chain to remove the wheel. With the wheel off it's easy to lift the chain off the front sprocket to replace that.
If you're changing the front sprocket though, loosen the sprocket nut before removing the chain and wheel, as you need to use them to lock the sprocket while you put a socket with a 97 foot extension bar on the nut and jump up and down on the end of the extension (or use an impact wrench lol.)
Getting that chain over the sprocket before sliding the axle though might end up being a bitch though assuming you get it off with the chain in tact in the first place.
If for some reason it doesn't work out. Just buy a new rivet style master for your chain (they make them in gold since you already have one), then buy a rivet tool and chain breaker. Then just break the chain, loop it around the sprocket and put the new master link in.
If the other way works out cool, but if not doing what I just said is what most people do by default and isnt a big deal.
I've never worked on a bike where you HAD to break the chain just to remove the back wheel... You're scaring the OP into thinking he has to go out and spend as much on a chain breaker and rivet tool than he does on his sprockets. It's ok OP, don't fall into that peer pressure to break your perty new gold chain!
Make sure the new sprockets are the same size or the chain may not fit back on.
You're dense.
Nope, his IQ is 154. You're dense, you just don't realize it .
Quote:
Originally Posted by goingtoscotland
Don't even need to do that. Remove axle and brake caliper. Push wheel to swingarm. Remove chain from sprocket. Remove wheel.
This is exactly what I do.
Only problem comes up if you forget to pull the chain back over the sprocket before you put the axle back through the wheel (I've done this more than once). Then you gotta pull the axle again, shift everything forwards and hook the chain up.
__________________
Of course I'm generalizing from a single example here, but everyone does that. At least I do.
Location: On an intergalactic cruise, in my office
Posts: 27,878
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sev
Nope, his IQ is 154. You're dense, you just don't realize it .
This is exactly what I do.
Only problem comes up if you forget to pull the chain back over the sprocket before you put the axle back through the wheel (I've done this more than once). Then you gotta pull the axle again, shift everything forwards and hook the chain up.
I always loop the chain around the back of the swingarm. Mostly to keep it off the ground.
If you're changing the front sprocket though, loosen the sprocket nut before removing the chain and wheel, as you need to use them to lock the sprocket while you put a socket with a 97 foot extension bar on the nut and jump up and down on the end of the extension (or use an impact wrench lol.)
Rob
Troof!
may also need a 2x4 through the wheel to prevent it from turning while jumping!
(use a "pneumatic" impact wrench)
and...
Measure the width of the rollers on the chain, the distance between the inner plates...
If they're ~1/4", you have a 520. - (derived from 2/8")
If they're ~5/16", you have a 525. - (derived from 2.5/8")
If they're ~3/8", you have a 530. - (derived from 3/8")
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