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Old 11-11-2012, 10:15 AM   #11 (permalink)
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I went for a slide just a month after I got my 600 (had a 125 for 8000km a full season previous to that)

Ended up in a ditch which broke most of the parts like turning signals and gave my forks an ever so slight bent.
So I had a scraped exhaust and smashed right side fairing.

Unless I pointed it out to fellow riders, no one noticed the road rash on the bike.

I was kind of relieved to have gone down for the 1st time, a day later I hated myself for what I've done to my bike.

This summer I went down for the 2nd time (30 000km in the saddle) doing around 45mph after hard braking. I actually didn't feel bad at all cuz I did everything I could at that split second before the lowside and couldn't have gotten away with any lesser damage.

Both occasions I was wearing a 2pc leather suit, zipped together, full gauntlet gloves, Riding boots and in lowside No.2 I even had a backprotector and a small backpack on... we should all wear backpacks on the track :P

Don't worry about cosmetics. Maybe when you're about to sell it, see what people would give you with the scratches and how much you could list it for if that piece would've been replaced with a new panel.

I rode through rain way too many times!
On my 125 with skimpy tiny 80/90 R17 in the front and 100/80 R17 in the rear. Your 250 got 110/70 and 130/70 in the rear.

Now with my 600 I experimented a lot (don't know why I get stupid in rain) and had lots of fish tailing, spinning rear, locking the rear, bad swivels losing traction on both tires for a split second (happened very unexpected, quite the shock).

Go out in rain and practice is the best way to learn (without the falling down part)!

I started off with stomping on the rear brake just before I came to a full stop when I saw a red light ahead of me. Nothing wild is gonna happen in a straight line.
Always be aware of starting to brake softly to load the front tire with weight so you can brake harder with the gained traction.
I always(!) got 2 fingers resting on my brake lever. Got a lot more important with the big bike.


Hope this could help you a little. It's not a biggy if you didn't get hurt too badly.
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:51 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Strider007 View Post
If the crack is kinda bad or falling apart, then you can drill several holes along each side of the crack and zip tie it to hold it together. You can fully repair or replace the panel at a later date.
That's a bloody ugly way to do it.

Push the plastic to open the crack and fill it with adhesive. A 2 part epoxy such as araldite is best. If it fails to hold, a strip of self adhesive fibreglass tape stuck on to the inside and soaked through with 2 part epoxy will make it rock solid.

And practise your emergency braking.

Rob
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Old 11-11-2012, 10:58 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Don't worry, you will.
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There's still plenty of time.
What scares me is that I feel that it is like a big sponge , the longer you take the worse it will be haha.

Not to say I have never been close , but a lot of luck and a lot of expirience with mountain bikes have helped.
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:11 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Thanks for the advice guys. Feels a lot better now. I'm trying to find a good website (uk) for Kawasaki parts... I need a new indicator lens as the old one broke.
Any ideas?
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Old 11-11-2012, 11:25 AM   #15 (permalink)
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What scares me is that I feel that it is like a big sponge , the longer you take the worse it will be haha.

Not to say I have never been close , but a lot of luck and a lot of expirience with mountain bikes have helped.
You should just go outside and push the fucker over. Just get it over with.
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Old 11-11-2012, 03:49 PM   #16 (permalink)
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I'm trying to find a good website (uk) for Kawasaki parts... I need a new indicator lens as the old one broke.
Any ideas?
Just check what 1 used turn signal costs or if it's almost the same to buy some flush mount indicators. Not the LEDs, the normal light bulb. They got for around $20.
When I bought that 1 turn signal, I paid $15, the $20 would've been a lot better choice.

Well, as seen in the 2nd picture, I need to replace the same side again, now I'm gonna go for flush mounts in the front as well.
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Old 11-11-2012, 07:45 PM   #17 (permalink)
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You should just go outside and push the fucker over. Just get it over with.


Pull the panel, and apply epoxy and/or that fiberglass tape Rob mentioned. Maybe get some touch up paint so it won't be as noticeable.

Get some more time before getting a new panel; you don't want to install it, then immediately dump it again rolling down the driveway.

-Will
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Old 11-11-2012, 08:13 PM   #18 (permalink)
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some frame sliders do more damage than good. gotta do some research and see who likes what the most.
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Old 11-12-2012, 07:25 AM   #19 (permalink)
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some frame sliders do more damage than good. gotta do some research and see who likes what the most.
No cuts suck
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Old 11-12-2012, 09:36 AM   #20 (permalink)
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No cuts suck
generally yes, but I can say that the shogun no cuts that were made for the 09 R1 are some of the best, thick mouting brakets i've ever seen for no cuts.

My first 'no cuts' I had on my 6r would have folded when I crashed in 07 on 'cuts' that I had replaced. The cuts held up to the T. didn't flip bike, just ground down, and as an added bonus managed to save my faring. I'm 100% convinced had I had the no cuts the bike probably would have flipped and bolt holding the puck would have broken right off.
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