An automatic cam chain tensioner has 4 moving parts. The plunger which presses against the cam guide, a locking mechanism, a metal rod which supports the spring, and the spring itself. The plunger has a series of stops, about 2mm apart. As the plunger moves toward the chain guide, these stops are sequentially engaged by the locking mechanism.
The spring does not always provide enough force to move the plunger from one stop to the next. By following the procedure I wrote, the pressure is removed from the spring, allowing the plunger to move ONE AND ONLY ONE 'step' to the next stop.
When I started riding thirty years ago, all bikes had manual tensioners. I was there when the automatics came out. The design hasn't changed very much, and they have
ALWAYS had this problem, and this is how you deal with it.
I've done it on several KZ-series motors.
I had an 85 Ninja that I did this procedure on - sold at 87k miles with no engine problems.
I had a 90 ZX11 that I did this procedure on - sold at 107k miles with no cam chain issues.
I had a 2000 ZX12 that I did this procedure on - sold at 75k with no engine issues.
I have a wrecked 2000 ZX12 with 45k miles - No engine issues.
Are you seeing the pattern?
This is my current bike, which I've also done this procedure on.
Now if you think that at this point in my career that I would perform a procedure on that bike that would potentially destroy the engine....
Some people never keep a bike long enough to gain this type of experience. I've always gotten one bike, maintained it properly, and kept it for years.
So my endorsement of this procedure is based on 30 years and more than 200,000 miles of experience. I've seen what others critical of this procedure base their opinions on. You decide.