Location: rm. 187,psych ward,southern maine '07 ZX14R, '95 ZX7
Posts: 11,168
Much vac hate in this thread. I've been using them for years with zero problems. Quit buying those plastic ones, they're "for kitchen use" only.
I use model #07300 here at work, not those fucking toys you guys are bitching about.
Great picture quality...........
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwillits
a beer-drinking, pot smoking, naked bike trashing hillbilly like you has an iPOD Touch ??--cobra
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry Soetoro
"Blah blah my bike is faster than yours around a technical track". Yawn. Well I on my feet can beat your small bike in a race of 100 laps around my couch
If you knew what the hell is really going on with a brake bleed, you would be just as concerned with making the bleeder screw threads airtight.
Yep.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whitehendrix
lol personally, i haven't had all that much luck with a mityvac on brakes either. i use them to test MAP sensors, open/close vac-operated solenoids, operate fuel-operated fuel shutoffs.. etc.
that's what they're good for.
I use one to get the majority of the air out, then finish the old fashioned way.
Quote:
Originally Posted by locknload
Much vac hate in this thread. I've been using them for years with zero problems. Quit buying those plastic ones, they're "for kitchen use" only.
I use model #07300 here at work, not those fucking toys you guys are bitching about.
Great picture quality...........
The only ones you'll ever find on a shelf at an auto parts store.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prs
Green says "toe-may-toe" and Strat says "toe-mah-toe.......with a frapuccino latte, one shot of cream and light on the foam".
Brake fade happens because any air trapped in the system boils due to the extreme heat generated. Using a MityVac is doing the job half assed and you will not get the results you would by doing it the right way. Leaving air in the system will ensure brake fade.
And yes, I have bled brakes many many times, and am somewhat of an expert at extracting every last bit of air from the system. Would you like references for the brake systems I have assembled and bled for AMA race teams?
MityVacs being inferior to bleeding brakes the proper way by hand isn't an opinion, by the way, it's a fact.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prs
Green says "toe-may-toe" and Strat says "toe-mah-toe.......with a frapuccino latte, one shot of cream and light on the foam".
Location: On an intergalactic cruise, in my office
Posts: 27,866
Quote:
Originally Posted by Green
Quote:
Originally Posted by RacinJason44
Haha, Green caught you on that one.
Well not really. Air and other contaminates in the lines lower the boiling point, not only because they have lower boiling points than the fluid itself, but because they reduce the pressure in the system. When the system boils those contaminates turn to vapor. That's when shit starts getting mushy. Even if the lever feels firm after you're done bleeding there can still be air in the system, and lever feel will get worse as you ride. Water isn't the only thing that lowers the boiling point
Not to be confused with brake fade caused by the pads themselves.
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2005 ZX-10R Street and Track Whore
Last edited by goingtoscotland; 12-10-2012 at 11:38 AM.
Location: rm. 187,psych ward,southern maine '07 ZX14R, '95 ZX7
Posts: 11,168
Quote:
Originally Posted by goingtoscotland
Well not really.
I'm dancing as fast as I can. Please don't notice.
Try these words: I was wrong.
It's not as painful as you think.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dwillits
a beer-drinking, pot smoking, naked bike trashing hillbilly like you has an iPOD Touch ??--cobra
Quote:
Originally Posted by Barry Soetoro
"Blah blah my bike is faster than yours around a technical track". Yawn. Well I on my feet can beat your small bike in a race of 100 laps around my couch
Well not really. Air and other contaminates in the lines lower the boiling point, not only because they have lower boiling points than the fluid itself, but because they reduce the pressure in the system. When the system boils those contaminates turn to vapor. That's when shit starts getting mushy. Even if the lever feels firm after you're done bleeding there can still be air in the system, and lever feel will get worse as you ride. Water isn't the only thing that lowers the boiling point
Not to be confused with brake fade caused by the pads themselves.
ive had that happen in my offroad truck. fuggin scary. push the pedal, and nothing happens. it feels like you have brakes, the pedal feels ok, they just dont work.
LNL that set up looks like it is worth more than my bikes. It looks big enuf to flush the coolant in the 919.
We have a Mazda dealer mechanic on another board that uses an air powered bleeder for doing bikes. Looks like it would hold almost a gallon of fluid. Kinda scary when he brings that monster out.
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