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Old 12-30-2012, 11:56 PM   #11 (permalink)
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shoulda asked what the idle is! lol *facepalm*

oh.. you either have a vac leak or the bike needs the carbs synced. i'll put money on needing synced.




carbs work off airspeed and port velocity.. most definitely, if the idle is low, the air intake and port velocities are low.. and in EXTREME cases (normally on SUPER tuned race motors where VEs are over 110%) the cam profile coupled with port harmonics may fuck up the running so bad that it simply WON'T run.. these bikes are cammed VERY extremely..

for an example, if you're familiar with toyota's supra, its pretty much the be all and end all of tuner lust.. the car STOCK with turbo came with 320CHP.. just a cam swap TO a 264 cam, a little degreeing and some tuning work puts the car up over 600 WHP.. you figure, most sportbikes come with 264 cams STOCK.. thus why the current rough power to displacement factor is .2 HP/CC

that same supra with THAT number would make 600HP WITHOUT a turbo, on pump gas.
a viper would make 1680 hp on pump gas with no turbos.
my f250, sans turbo ( its a 7.3 powerstroke, highly tuned..) would make 1460hp..

so, needless to say, bikes are tuned and built to the extreme right off the bat, so any LITTLE tiny thing that's 'wrong' with fuel or spark throws it WAYy the hell off..

jeff, its just time, man.. i have a ton of time in the field.. grew up with this shit. been around cars and bikes my entire life. was fixing lawn mowers for my pops when i was 6.. built my first car when i was 8 ( VW rabbit with a single cam 1.8.. old skool mechanical fuel injection) .. theres still plenty of people who have forgotten more about this stuff in the last 10 minutes then i'll learn in the next 10 years!
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Old 12-31-2012, 04:07 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whitehendrix View Post
shoulda asked what the idle is! lol *facepalm*

oh.. you either have a vac leak or the bike needs the carbs synced. i'll put money on needing synced.




carbs work off airspeed and port velocity.. most definitely, if the idle is low, the air intake and port velocities are low.. and in EXTREME cases (normally on SUPER tuned race motors where VEs are over 110%) the cam profile coupled with port harmonics may fuck up the running so bad that it simply WON'T run.. these bikes are cammed VERY extremely..

for an example, if you're familiar with toyota's supra, its pretty much the be all and end all of tuner lust.. the car STOCK with turbo came with 320CHP.. just a cam swap TO a 264 cam, a little degreeing and some tuning work puts the car up over 600 WHP.. you figure, most sportbikes come with 264 cams STOCK.. thus why the current rough power to displacement factor is .2 HP/CC

that same supra with THAT number would make 600HP WITHOUT a turbo, on pump gas.
a viper would make 1680 hp on pump gas with no turbos.
my f250, sans turbo ( its a 7.3 powerstroke, highly tuned..) would make 1460hp..

so, needless to say, bikes are tuned and built to the extreme right off the bat, so any LITTLE tiny thing that's 'wrong' with fuel or spark throws it WAYy the hell off..

jeff, its just time, man.. i have a ton of time in the field.. grew up with this shit. been around cars and bikes my entire life. was fixing lawn mowers for my pops when i was 6.. built my first car when i was 8 ( VW rabbit with a single cam 1.8.. old skool mechanical fuel injection) .. theres still plenty of people who have forgotten more about this stuff in the last 10 minutes then i'll learn in the next 10 years!
I was playing with it before I went to my local auto parts store to add seafoam and thought to myself "what is the easiest thing that could be wrong with this bike". I played with the idle and it seemed the previous owner had it all the way down probably because of the summer heat, here in Phoenix I could imagine that's what happened since the shop owner said he had the bike for 2 months and who knows when the last time the previous owner did anything to it. The more and more I rode with the seafoam in the gas tank the better the RPM responses became, it no longer acts like it is cold with the choke on anymore and hasn't died on me once since this morning after putting 80 miles on it.

The carbs will be cleaned and sync'd once my parts arrive in the mail, the only thing I dislike about this bike is EVERYTHING is under the gas tank. Spark plugs, air filter, carburetor; on my last bike I could easily do 2 of the 3 without much trouble. I can't really complain though, I liked my old Ninja 250r but I am slowly starting to love this one.
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Old 12-31-2012, 08:11 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Here is a link of my chain, this is after cleaning it. Is it time for a new chain or can I wait a little? I've never really had to deal with this before since my 250 had a perfect chain and I cleaned it every 300 miles.
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Old 01-01-2013, 12:00 AM   #14 (permalink)
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looks good to me...but i never cleaned my chain so...

how many miles you have on it?...i had 37k on my 250 before i replaced it and that is just because i thought i should...
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Old 01-01-2013, 01:07 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Cant tell just by a pic. Just lube it up good, put it on a stand and make sure the slack doesn't vary drastically as you turn the back wheel and you should be fine.

Whitey knows a lot about this stuff.

You could have a bad float needle or something ya never know.. a good cleaning and once over of the carbs will probably fix it if the problem comes back.

good luck and enjoy the bike.
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Old 01-01-2013, 03:36 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks all, only 2 more things to do before the bike runs perfectly. I notice like a squeaking/rattling noise on my bike somewhere that only goes away when I am accelerating. Doesn't seem like it is the engine though, sometimes at higher gears it goes away but I think that is only because of too much wind moving by my ears, not really concerned about it but just find it annoying.

Last thing is some times when up shifting from first to second it kicks it down to neutral, like when shifting from second to first with too much speed and high RPM's how it kicks it up to neutral and doesn't allow it to get into gear. Usuaully I am in town when doing this getting off from a red light and shift at 6-8k RPM. Unless I give it some tough love and give it a good and fast shift up, maybe it is just picky or is this normal? It doesn't do it every time, I still have to adjust my clutch cable because it doesn't feel right like it has too much line. Might be just because I am trying to shift up before I clutch in all the way, always seems to happen when I am shifting too fast. Every other gear seems fine, I just don't don't want to get use to up shifting a little too aggressive and possibly ruining something.

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Old 01-02-2013, 12:38 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Damn I am surprised you bought the bike after seeing it has all those problems

Good luck!!!
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My bike is REALLY confused
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:04 PM   #18 (permalink)
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They aren't that bad actually. Realized I was lazy footing when shifting and haven't had an issue since, damn 250 habits lol. Seafoam/idle adjustment fixed the bike shutting off when slowing down. Considering the bike blue books for 4.3k and I paid 2.8k with maybe 400 dollars in parts to make it in excellent condition I think I made out pretty well.

Now that damn squeaking noise is all I have to get rid of after I install all my new parts once they come in the mail. Possibly a new chain and sprockets, the chain looks a little too dirty for my taste. The people on the forums here are amazing and full of information!
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:05 PM   #19 (permalink)
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They aren't that bad actually. Realized I was lazy footing when shifting and haven't had an issue since, damn 250 habits lol. Seafoam/idle adjustment fixed the bike shutting off when slowing down. Considering the bike blue books for 4.3k and I paid 2.8k with maybe 400 dollars in parts to make it in excellent condition I think I made out pretty well.

Now that damn squeaking noise is all I have to get rid of after I install all my new parts once they come in the mail. Possibly a new chain and sprockets, the chain looks a little too dirty for my taste. The people on the forums here are amazing and full of information!
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Old 01-02-2013, 06:01 PM   #20 (permalink)
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For chain wear you look at how far the chain adjusters are set back to make up for chain stretch/wear, and the condition of the chain sprocket teeth.

This is my favorite chain maintenance article, a little dated about 520 size chains but still good overall:

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/chain.php
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