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Old 12-29-2012, 04:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Buying 2008 ZZR600

Buying it from a dealer that normally sells only cars, he wants 3,000 out the door. It has 24,000 miles and the only thing wrong with it is the fact that the neutral light doesn't work. How hard is that to replace or fix? I'm glad I'm staying with Kawasaki, my 250 was a blast and I hope this bike is everything I am expecting.

Side note, any known issues with the 2008 zzr600's that are well known?
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:46 AM   #2 (permalink)
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i had an 05 and the difference between the two are just colors...both are carbs but the throttle response is so smooth that i think it is better than my fi 07 cbr600...the neutral light just needs replacing but i do not know how easy or difficult...the zzr is a very good supersport though not as light or powerful than the latest...insurance will be reasonable because it is considered a sports touring bike...only known issues is you have to put gas in it...very reliable and highly recommended...go BUY IT...dew eet!!!!...wish i did not sell it but my wife said i do not need three bikes...

2005 Kawasaki ZZR600: MD Ride Review – Do It All, On A Budget MotorcycleDaily.com – Motorcycle News, Editorials, Product Reviews and Bike Reviews

http://www.powersportsnetwork.com/en....asp?veh=59098

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Old 12-30-2012, 04:08 AM   #3 (permalink)
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the only thing i can think of is that they stopped making the 08s in 2008.

and ..of course, the 09s in 2009.

neutral light is most likely the neutral light switch, which is down by the sprocket. has a little mint green wire running to it. quick test of the circuit AND switch at the same time is to simply remove the wire and short it to the case since its a ground sourcing circuit anyway. if the light comes on, replace the switch, or clean the rotor behind it if it's anything like the ZX7R, 9R, or 12R switch array. in that case, clean the plastic off from around the copper pin in the rotor..

if the light DOESN'T come on, then you can simply tap into the wire the whole way to the dash at various points and ground it out til you have signal. if the bike starts in neutral but theres no light, the light is probably just burnt out.. but i can't recall if they're LEDs or not. LEDs don't burn out really, so if it IS an LED, you may have lost the circuit. its part of a bigger safety circuit that incorporates the kick stand switch and the clutch switch.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:11 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Kind of interesting problem with the bike, on the test ride and everything it was fine. After a 35 minute ride I got off the freeway and was down shifting and the power cut out. It has happened quite a few times now and although it starts right up I am trying to come up with a list for me and my friend to start working on to solve whatever it is since it seems electrical. I will be riding, down shifting from 2nd usually into first and when I am not giving it throttle it's like I just turn the key off. It'll start right back up but it's really weird. It rides kind of weird (like low power) and the RPMs are a little high after I turn the bike back on.

Some things I will be looking into is a new battery, Side stand switch, Battery contacts. Might have bad gas in it? It was sitting for a while before I bought it, i will be replacing the spark plugs, oil and oil filter asap though.

EDIT: The old owner did a lot of "do it your self mods" including the lights, my friend is a mechanic and stated he did a shawty job at it. At a glance he didn't see anything wrong but we will be taking it apart to do all the basic stuff, air filter change, oil change, oil filter, clean the carbs and everything else so we can just do it all at one time. Maybe he also screwed up the electrical system while he was doing his mods.

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Old 12-30-2012, 04:20 AM   #5 (permalink)
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turn the bars with the bike idling in neutral. if it shuts off with bar movement, it's in the keyswitch. theres a small gray wire that runs power thru a resistor as an anti theft circuit. that wire runs directly to the CDI. the solder joints work loose in the switch over time and that little anti theft circuit loses power, which shuts the CDI off.. no spark.. no fuel. fuel is powered off the #1/4 coil pack channel since it's a wasted spark array.. i THINK so, anyway. i could be wrong.. they mighta switched to coil packs by then? i dunno. i know the J model 6R was coil packs because that's what i'm going to run on my turbo bike. as for the ZZR, i have 2 ZX6Es and they turned INTO the ZZR in 2000, then underwent a body change in 02 or 03 i think... i thought they retained the wasted spark shit..
fuck it anyway, check the gray wire. fix the shit. thats a carburated bike, so.. basically, if it runs well, it runs well. if not, then it needs love. make sure the fuel petcock is on the whole way and theres a good bit of gas in it. the fuel pumps are low-pressure and tend to fail like clockwork around 27000-30000 miles..

it MAY need a carb clean, but if it runs down the highway ok, maybe a bottle of marvel mystery oil and techron in the tank will liven that bitch up.

you owe me $10 for consultation.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:29 AM   #6 (permalink)
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turn the bars with the bike idling in neutral. if it shuts off with bar movement, it's in the keyswitch. theres a small gray wire that runs power thru a resistor as an anti theft circuit. that wire runs directly to the CDI. the solder joints work loose in the switch over time and that little anti theft circuit loses power, which shuts the CDI off.. no spark.. no fuel. fuel is powered off the #1/4 coil pack channel since it's a wasted spark array.. i THINK so, anyway. i could be wrong.. they mighta switched to coil packs by then? i dunno. i know the J model 6R was coil packs because that's what i'm going to run on my turbo bike. as for the ZZR, i have 2 ZX6Es and they turned INTO the ZZR in 2000, then underwent a body change in 02 or 03 i think... i thought they retained the wasted spark shit..
fuck it anyway, check the gray wire. fix the shit. thats a carburated bike, so.. basically, if it runs well, it runs well. if not, then it needs love. make sure the fuel petcock is on the whole way and theres a good bit of gas in it. the fuel pumps are low-pressure and tend to fail like clockwork around 27000-30000 miles..

it MAY need a carb clean, but if it runs down the highway ok, maybe a bottle of marvel mystery oil and techron in the tank will liven that bitch up.

you owe me $10 for consultation.
Hahaha if this solves my issue I will mail you 10 dollars cash, i love the bike though. Coming from a 250 the power increase is HUGE! The size and steering is so much different, but I am in total love with this bike.
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:47 AM   #7 (permalink)
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ohh ya man. theres a definitive grunt around 4 grand that you don't see in the baby ninja. BUT i have a VTR250 track bike and absolutely fucking kill 600s and liters in the corners... lol.. if the guy is just plain FAST, then it's a nice battle to maintain or overtake, but nothing really beats a 250 for twisty action.
the 600s are pure clean fun. comfortable, plenty strong, reliable, and sexy.

the biggest issue with most kawis is that gray wire. they stopped that bitch in 05 or 06 i think. i wanna say 05, because i remember combing 636 diagrams when i was building custom bikes and saw the gray wire in the harness and knew exactly what it was.. only it controlled the ECU instead of a CDI. same thing, really.

the pumps can be problematic, but i don't think that's the case here.. not yet at least. if your shake test doesn't prove the gray wire out, then the pump is the next thing on the list to check. general fuel, really. the pump pressure is 1.6-2.3 psi and is sourced thru a solid state relay ( small, 4 pin red connector..) which is an inverted gate SCR.. the signal to the plug coil is switched ground; theres 12V on the coils ( red wire) when the bike is turned on and the ground leads (green on i THINK the 1/4 and black on the 2.3 coil.. or vice versa) are switched by the CDI to make the spark event occur. that switched ground is the gate trigger for the "relay", which uses the negative (ground source) signal from the CDI to pass positive juice from the pump circuit to the pump itself.
an easy way to test the pump ( sort of..) is to turn the bike on, pop it into first gear and hold the start button in. NO clutch, kickstand up. theres a priming circuit in there that bypasses the relay and puts power right to the pump when the button is held in. if the pump runs for a second then gets slower and slower, it is building pressure and works.. it will eventually stop after a few seconds when pressure is maxed out.

if it sounds erratic or doesn't pump at all, a small tap on on the back side of the pump body might get it going. if it DOES, then the pump needs replaced soon. they run about $160 new. at least for the ZX7R. the zzr600 pump outlets are about .080" smaller than the 7R's shit. the pump guts and contact block are the same between the 600 and 7R, but the pipe fittings are WAY different in size.. so make sure you get the right one if it comes to that.
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Old 12-30-2012, 12:32 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I did the neutral bar turn test, nothing happened. I am sure it is the electrical though since whoever owned it last did a half ass job on most of the stuff. He even removed the kick stand safety regulator (I am BS'ing the name here) and placed a paper clip in it rather than just plug it back in (the connection that doesnt let you start up with the kick stand down or without pulling in the clutch). Every time it dies I am braking, not 100% sure but every time I notice it and remember I am breaking. He did a custom taillight and maybe a bad wiring job could be to blame?

I have been reading that since it is only when I am slowing down it could be the carbs, it did sit at the shop for 2 months before I bought it. I believe the salesman said 2 months, so who knows when the last time it was cleaned. I will be ordering new spark plugs, air filter, oil filter and oil change, coolant flush and cleaning the carbs while I am at it in the next week or so. Possibly a new battery if it continues, even though I probably should get a new one anyways since you should always get a new one with a new bike.

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Old 12-30-2012, 01:26 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Whitey knows about a thousand times more about mechanics than me, but to refresh his memory about one detail I remembered seeing this below at Wikipedia. The 2000 to 2002 ZX-6R has the same engine and frame as the 2005 to 2008 ZZR600, but with no birdcage holding up the front fairing starting in 2005:

"In 2000, the first J series replaced the G, increasing power to 112 bhp by increasing the compression ratio from 11.8:1 to 12.8:1. The J series sported a couple of modernisations including a 180 section rear tire, second headlight, and uprated generator and stick coils (coil on plug) replacing the traditional coil with HT lead."
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Old 12-30-2012, 01:54 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Small update, I played with the idle because I noticed it idled so low that it didn't even move when I was in first gear or neutral. I bumped it up to 1.2k RPM and it helped but my RPM's are everywhere. They will jump up to 3.5k for a couple seconds, then drop to below 1k before settling somewhere in the middle. I added 4.5oz of Seafoam to the tank today after I filled up so hopefully if it is the carbs it'll clean it out well before we have to take off the tank and do everything.

EDIT: I rode it around the loop 101 here in Phoenix for 50 miles, after tinkering with the idle a little more and letting the seafoam go through the system I haven't had any issues *knocks on wood*.

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