Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Wilmington, Nc.. building fantastical shit
ohh ya man. theres a definitive grunt around 4 grand that you don't see in the baby ninja. BUT i have a VTR250 track bike and absolutely fucking kill 600s and liters in the corners... lol.. if the guy is just plain FAST, then it's a nice battle to maintain or overtake, but nothing really beats a 250 for twisty action.
the 600s are pure clean fun. comfortable, plenty strong, reliable, and sexy.
the biggest issue with most kawis is that gray wire. they stopped that bitch in 05 or 06 i think. i wanna say 05, because i remember combing 636 diagrams when i was building custom bikes and saw the gray wire in the harness and knew exactly what it was.. only it controlled the ECU instead of a CDI. same thing, really.
the pumps can be problematic, but i don't think that's the case here.. not yet at least. if your shake test doesn't prove the gray wire out, then the pump is the next thing on the list to check. general fuel, really. the pump pressure is 1.6-2.3 psi and is sourced thru a solid state relay ( small, 4 pin red connector..) which is an inverted gate SCR.. the signal to the plug coil is switched ground; theres 12V on the coils ( red wire) when the bike is turned on and the ground leads (green on i THINK the 1/4 and black on the 2.3 coil.. or vice versa) are switched by the CDI to make the spark event occur. that switched ground is the gate trigger for the "relay", which uses the negative (ground source) signal from the CDI to pass positive juice from the pump circuit to the pump itself.
an easy way to test the pump ( sort of..) is to turn the bike on, pop it into first gear and hold the start button in. NO clutch, kickstand up. theres a priming circuit in there that bypasses the relay and puts power right to the pump when the button is held in. if the pump runs for a second then gets slower and slower, it is building pressure and works.. it will eventually stop after a few seconds when pressure is maxed out.
if it sounds erratic or doesn't pump at all, a small tap on on the back side of the pump body might get it going. if it DOES, then the pump needs replaced soon. they run about $160 new. at least for the ZX7R. the zzr600 pump outlets are about .080" smaller than the 7R's shit. the pump guts and contact block are the same between the 600 and 7R, but the pipe fittings are WAY different in size.. so make sure you get the right one if it comes to that.
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Originally Posted by nizzmister
Bike pulls real hard and smooth, kinda like Supra's mom, but without the regret