2006 zx6r cooling issues. Boiling over. - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 03:29 PM Thread Starter
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2006 zx6r cooling issues. Boiling over.

This is a topic I started in the newbie forum. Figured I'd get more input here. Im having issues with it running hot. And dumping coolent out of the overflow once its turned off. Emptys the overflow and empties almost half the radiator. Anyone that's had this issue please respond. BTW had 2200. Miles 2 weeks ago when I bought it now has 3200 miles. So miles are low

Changed the rad cap pressure tested it at my work 18 psi. Changed the coolant at my work by draining the water pump bolt and the other on cylinder #1. Checked the thermostat it's fine. Yet it's still running hot as hell and dumping all of the coolant out of the over flow. And 1/3-1/2 of the radiator. Which explains why it runs hot wasn't bad till it dumped out. Defiantly lost. Plus it's my daily driver so I can't stick it at a shop for a couple days. Also yes I pulled the cap off and tried burping it after we added the new coolant nothing came up. Think if I hooked it up to a pressure flush machine it might get a air bubble out if that's the issue? Also at my work I have a automotive flush machine that wouldn't be to much pressure would it? The pressure is different for every car. Hopefully someone else has done it before.


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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-11-2012, 03:50 PM
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Is the fan working? You only need a few things to have a correctly functioning cooling system if you think about it: 50/50 water/anti-freeze, tight system (no leaks), radiator full with no air, water/coolant flowing, and air blowing across the cooling fins (either by riding or the fan running). I'm guessing your fan isn't turning on. If it is and this is happening then you don't have enough water in the mix or you may have a clog somewhere in the cooling system/water pump degraded or not running at all.

So check the fan works right, and also the water pump.

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-12-2012, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply. Fan works kicks on at 210-211. Haven't pulled the pump off and looked at it but with the cap off I can see the coolent flowing. I ran water through the system when we changed the coolent out till it was clear. Than used new 50/50 coolent to fill it all back up.

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-15-2012, 11:25 AM
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I had the same problem. My fans kicked in it at the normal 210F, system had no leaks, radiator cap was good and water pump worked fine. My engine would overheat and when I shut the engine down, coolant would overflow from the overflow tank onto the ground.
I ended up draining the coolant by removing all the hoses coming from the radiator and getting a garden hose to flush out the radiator really well. The cooling fluid had a white tint to it.
After flushing the radiator with a garden hose, I filled it up with distilled water and an additive to clean/flush the radiator. I ran it for 15 minutes, then took it out for a ride and rev'd the hell out of the engine. I did this process twice, then refilled the radiator with distilled water to flush the system again then refilled it with coolant.

That somehow fixed my problem. My guess was that there was some build up and between running the coolant flush and reving the hell out of the engine, it loosened up that build up. When refilling with coolant, I made sure to slowly pour in the coolant to prevent air bubbles and made sure the radiator cap seal was clean before reinstalling it.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-15-2012, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Might give that a try. I drained the coolent from the 2 bolts. And added new coolent and it didn't change anything. But no white tint. Only thing I could see wrong was a couple flakes floating at the top when the Rad cap was off. But it did sit for 3-4 years. Ill update after u try that. Thanks for the input.

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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-20-2012, 10:42 AM
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An investment in one of these will save you headaches in the long run.



This way, you can be sure you're actually bleeding all of the air pockets out of the system, instead of constantly having to add coolant. This also creates a high point in the cooling system, allowing the air to come up. You can also rev the engine with this on and help get those annoying air pockets out.

You can try flushing the system out in case there are rust deposits, ie "flakes," to see if that will help, but I would get a funnel in the long run for any future drain and refills.

You sure the thermostat is opening when it should? Did you take it out and put it in a pot of boiling water?
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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 03:09 PM Thread Starter
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Just dropped the bike off for a cooling system flush at pro caliber.

fingers crossed. will update if it worked or not.
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 03:11 PM Thread Starter
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Did not fix it. Now im lost.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 03:51 PM
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Did you accidentally switch the two hoses by the radiator cap? The one closest to the cap goes to the overflow.

How are you checking the thermostat? Just because you see coolant flowing in the radiator doesn't mean the thermostat is opening.
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 10-29-2012, 12:24 PM Thread Starter
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ill take a look. it was doing it once i bought it.

I pulled it out and dropped it in boiling water and it opened.

I dont see how the thermostat could be an issue since it boils over after its shut down?
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