I finally got some time to work on the zx10r front end install...not that bad, really. One of the other members here did this a while back but I thought I'd gather details of my install for the rest of you.
My primary goal with this was weight reduction...though along for the ride is radial brakes and a little bit of cool factor. The front end saves about 8 pounds (wheel, rotors, forks, speedo, calipers). I at one time weighed 636 fork legs and they are heavier than 10r. The 10r lower triple looks more robust than the 636 or 7r and overall is the same weight as stock. The 10r forks and have 1.0 springs the 10R also used a heavier rotor than the 636...and since a 636 can warp it stock rotors, i'll start off with the 10r parts. You can get radial brakes from about any of the Japanese bikes.
A few notes:
- The fork tube size of zx10 is smaller.
- The center to center of the zx7r and 10r forks is virtually identical.
- The 10r has less offset so should steer easier, but at the cost of stability (636 offset was much closer to a zx7r).
- The 10r stem is aluminum, so the threads for the upper nuts are fine thread...those nuts are also aluminum...so a spanner wrench is preferred over a hammer and punch!
- 10R forks will NOT fit in 636 clamps without extra work as the lower triple hole diameters are different....
-I chose to use the 10r triples. Choosing to avoided spacers to maintain rigidity in the front end...though 1mm and 2mm thick aluminum strips would let you put the 10r forks right into stock triples.
-This also means new clip ons. 50mm...like so many other bikes are these days...I went with aftermarkets, rather than stock 10r pieces.
- I acquired 2007 gsxr1000 front brakes...the 4 piston tokico's have the same mounting and I got a radial master as well. Along for the ride is a gsxr1000 master cylinder for the clutch...the fluid reservoir is mounted right on the master for a nice clean cockpit.
What I did:
- I took the original ball bearing off the zx10 steering stem....not necessary but the head bearing kit I bought for it from All-Balls came with taper bearings...you'll just have to make sure you change bearings on either your bike or the triples. I like taper bearings anyway...they can carry more load and wear less.
The 10r lower bearing seals on the ID of the hole for the bearing race rather than on the recessed face in the frame. So I used the seal included with the All Balls kit with my new bearings. I put new races in the frame (so to be clear it remained taper bearings, just nice new ones). The lower triple went right on using the zx10r stem...it clears the frame just fine. The upper spanner/bearing nut has a seal/cover that goes over the frame to keep crap out of the upper bearing. I was able to swap that bearing cover from the zx7r nut onto the nut from the 10r...it just pushes off/on...beautiful.
The upper triple took some work. I had to take about 3/8" off the mounting bosses of the 10r upper triple for the key to mount. I did in fact swap over my stock zx7r ignition lock. I have access to a mill...but careful work could removed this material other ways. I had to also remove a little material on the bottom corners to clear the steering lock boss on the frame. That cast portion of the frame I also had to take down some with a file so that when the upper triple was tightened down the ignition lock cleared that feature on the frame. When all was done, even the steering lock works. The key is a little recessed in the triple, but still usable. If it wasn't gold anodized I'd consider removing that feature (its intended to support the ignition lock should a theif try to pry your locked steering open.
Issues to resolve:
1- The radial master cylinder from the GSXR1000 may not work with the stock throttle housing...the throttle cables coming out the bottom are all in close proximity to the brake lines...I suspect this could easily be solved with a zx6r/10r throttle housing and control box (which are separate parts on those newer bikes).
2- I haven't worked out a steering stop yet, but I think I'll do something on the underside to use the stops cast into the 10r lower triple...its possible it looses a little bit of steering angle due to the reduced offset.
3- This does do away with the stock speedo drive. I am planning an update to newer gauges too, so am not too concerned for my own use.
4- the GSXR clutch master has a different plug on the switch than a 7r.
I'll take some pictures and post here later... I stayed up too late working on it and telling all you about it already. Though I didn't take any "in process shots"....I think you'll be able to see what I did.
After this will be a 6r rear end...Damn...I might just ride this bike this year.
Love me some modding..
Not sure ont he 7r frame but you can do what attack does with their triple kits, use some delrin thick spacers (like a stacked washer) bolted on the underside of the steering head..
have done this with my 6R as i am running attack triples....works fine and not to hard to get done. can get you pics if you like?
also on your speedo issue i have used a bicycle speed indicator before, worked damn good, glued the little metal aprt ont he rotor with the pickup behind the front fender.
nice little digital Speedo, good to over 150mph for sure.
cant wait to see some pics...wish i knew you were doing this have a set of traxxion 10r forks i am pulling off my 10r (if my new forks get here by the 8th)...would of sold them fro cheap.
Hey JD. Thanks for the offer, but I got the fork set silly cheap....really..and they are really mint. I am not expecting the 7R to be a major track weapon anyway...I have an F3 and 636 for that. Last time I swapped forks on a bike, it wreaked havoc on its front end handling if pushed hard. I am hoping the slightly longer swingarm will help regain some of the stability the fork offset gives up. The fork internals will get Gold Valves if they set I have doesn't sell first.
I'd contemplated a bike speedo, but found that the newer gauge sets don't refer to the ECU for speed, they operate on their own. So, my plan is to use a speed sensor off a zx6r to feed zx6r gauges.
I don't have a editor for drawing arrows on the pics, so you'll have to read and look at the pics to gather what you need.
Look closely at the first pic - showing the steering head of the frame.
1- Where the ignition lock screws on to the triple - removed material.
2- That bottom corner of that same mounting post had to get beveled as well.
3- Note the material removed on the cast boss on the front of the frame and the rib below it that goes to the mount for the guage bracket.
I do think a steering stop on the underside will be best...there's some good space to work with, though one might interfer with the air damn between the valve cover and radiator if you aren't carefull.
These particular clip ons are Yanashiki's, with Woodcraft bars. The clip on is a 1 piece, nice stainless hardware...but they come with solid bars...I like the hollow woodcrafts with the plastic knub end. I like the split clamp woodcrafts better, but I got these cheap.
As you read about this bikes development, that will be a re-occuring theme..weight loss on a budget. While I might do something crazy and look at titanium hardware its unlikely. But, the real end goal is 60# off the OEM curb weight, maintain street legal lighting, be suitable for real performance use and not break the bank doing it. In keeping OEM bodywork and lighting and not getting aftermarket wheels, I think I'll end closer to 50# off.
When I'm done, I would also gauges interest in creating a "weigh loss kit" for the 7R...perhaps an assortment of needed hardware, parts list, even new brackets fab'ed from aluminum instead of the steel (so sinfully used all over this bike). Its an old bike, but some people love them and would like to make them more current.
50lbs. is a hefty challenge without going to aftermarket wheels. I am surprised the weight loss wasn't more than 8lbs. on the front end. The rear should be substantially more given the boat anchor 7r rear wheel.
Any particular reason for the 6R rear over a 10R or Aprilia RSV? Both have been fit successfully to the P models, though I've yet to hear any real reports on handling differences.
I swapped in a ZX14 radial clutch master on my '02, with the brake master waiting in the wings. Same deal with the clutch switch (which I haven't addressed yet) and the fit of any radial brake master with the throttle cable situation. I'm going to try to make it fit without a cable housing swap, but we'll see. On the clutch side, I did have to rotate the switch housing slightly to get the lever in the proper position. Had to machine a bit of the MC housing off as well. Then again, I've got a set of Helibars, so my experience may differ from others.
I've got some of the parts for a 14 front end swap, but that will have to wait until next year. Here's a writeup from a guy that did it to an L where he outlines some of the approaches he took to various problems: