1998 ZX7R camshaft installation - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 12:29 PM Thread Starter
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1998 ZX7R camshaft installation

I'm having issues with my low speed running on my P3. Changed a ton of parts, messed with the carbs, did a valve adjustment. Then for the hell of it, I checked the compression. I got 80 psi on all cylinders. Then I did a leak down test. It was leaking out the intake valves.

Put the crankshaft at the TDC mark 1,4. Used a long screw driver in the spark plug hole to make sure #1 cylinder was at TDC. At that position, the intake valve is pushed in slightly causing the leak. Took the valve cover off and counted the pins on the chain. It counted to 26 pins. The EX mark looks good to the top of the cylnder head, but the IN mark looked a bit high. Kind of a bitch to see the marks on the frame side, but used the marks on the opposite side of sprocket. Then for the hell of it I moved the camshaft to 27 pins by rotating the intake camshaft counterclockwise 1 tooth. I rotated the crankshaft by hand to make sure it wasn't hitting anything and i was good. But the intake valve is still being depressed slightly at TDC. I think this is causing my low compression and poor low speed running.

It seems like where the IN mark is located on the intake camshaft, it will depress the intake valves. Could I have a bad camshaft? I'm pretty sure the valve clearances are correct. Any ideas on how to install these cams correctly? Do I need a degree wheel?

Last edited by ant21; 03-21-2011 at 12:51 PM.
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post #2 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 01:00 PM
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Strange and in need of clarification

You start your post by stating you had low speed issues 'then' went on to try and rectify the problem.

So if i read correctly you have exactly the same low speed running issue you had before touching the Bike ?

I get it that you have inlet valves open when they should be closed but i'm trying to get straight what came first.

On your Valve timing issue it's really inconveniant that the Motor sits that close to the frame, Can you posta pic with the cams in and linned up....

UK Calling...
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post #3 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 01:30 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry, Yes I have the same low speed issues. I bought the bike used at 9K miles and had the issue from the beginning. I adjusted the valves at 12K miles as most were "tight". I'm at 20K now. It runs good from 4k rpm on up. I might work on the bike tommorrow, so I'll try and get pics.
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post #4 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 01:33 PM
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May need to unbolt the cams and rotate the crank one complete turn and line it back to 1/4 TDC mark and then reinstall cams. Take the rocker cover gasket out of the head when trying to line up the marks a mirror comes in handy also.
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post #5 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah Tyrell, was thinking about doing that next. Thanks guys.
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post #6 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-21-2011, 11:27 PM
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guess you didnt index anything with a paint marker before teardown huh..

not sure what rotating the crank a turn will accomplish. 360 degrees of crank rotation is 360 degrees of crank rotation. tear down, drop front mount bolts to see the sides of the cams, set #1 to tdc, align timing rotor mark, align cam marks, assemble. win. ride. don't tear down timing components without indexing them first..


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post #7 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 12:13 AM
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And don't ride the engine below 4 grand. If you're in 5th or 6th gear and trying putz around at 3000 the engine is going to buck and whine, besides fouling plugs.

Plus it's gay.

Josh

1993 ZX7-L1
1969 Honda CM91 (chick magnet!)
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post #8 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 03:00 AM
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^^^please explain how this pertains to his problem...nevermind, dont care.

im with whitey, dropping the motor to get a better view, wont take but another hr or 2.

at first i was going to say wrong shims, but thatd only cause issues on a cyl or 2...also a bent valve would do the same thing. so yea, im with ya, timing must be your issue.

only thing i can suggest is to remove the tensioner and try again...or again again in your case.

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post #9 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-22-2011, 11:42 PM
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Cam chain needs to be set to 26 pins mark to mark.

When doing a compression check, you must do it with the throttle WOT or just remove the carb rack to get the proper reading.

Also repeat with some oil in each cylinder or just do a leak-down.

To clarify my previous statement, the 7 doesn't like to run below 4 grand anyway, especially below 3 grand. No need to putt-putt around below that, keep the engine happy you have to rev it.

Josh

1993 ZX7-L1
1969 Honda CM91 (chick magnet!)
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post #10 of 24 (permalink) Old 03-23-2011, 12:11 AM
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Quote:
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And don't ride the engine below 4 grand. If you're in 5th or 6th gear and trying putz around at 3000 the engine is going to buck and whine, besides fouling plugs.

Plus it's gay.

Josh

curious as to where you're getting shitty running below 4 grand at?
mine runs and pulls like a fucking tractor from IDLE. maybe it's my tune and build.. maybe it's the bike.. but i'll be damned if the thing carries on even the slightest bit off idle and below 3 or so. thru town i'll roll in 6th gear at about 1800-2000 rpm and it sounds like a hoss and still has balls to pull out of the way of cages.


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