1998 or 2000 model? - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-07-2009, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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1998 or 2000 model?

Hi guys, been a little while since i have posted here.
Previously owned a zx6r c1h but my girlfriend was fed up of doing the wekly shopping on it lol.
The time has come for me to buy another bike and i WILL be buying a zx9r, question is..... which one?

1) was there much difference between the 1998 model and the 2000 model other than the headlamps?

2) what are the most common faults to look for when buying these bikes?

3) thank you for your input, karl
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-07-2009, 03:49 PM
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Make sure u look at the frame up near the neck for cracks. Look for hairline cracks closley. If u dont catch them it could turn out bad.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-07-2009, 04:07 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that mate
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 10:00 AM
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http://www.motorcycle.com/manufactur...x9r-15097.html

found this when I was looking at my 99. has a lot of good info on the diffrences between a 98 and 2000 model year. I love my 99 I like the unique look of the single smiling headlamp. Good luck and welcome to the 9r club.

Pain is only weakness leaving your body!!!
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 01:32 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that mate
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-08-2009, 02:47 PM
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with a 2000 9r ur parts are the same up to 2003.

most guys do like the 2000-2003 head light.

you can find parts for both still.

some shops do have the 10 year back policy. that were they do not work on stuff older then 10 years depends on your area and shop.

truthfully 98 should cost less just due to age even if same condition as a 2000 so keep that in mind people dont put top dollar if they really want to sell.

Last check to see when or if that motor has been broke down and all the seal and gaskets were replaced. they dont last forever like some may think

just a list of stuff to think about

Green tires make you go faster

2000 ZX9r

Last edited by Ditch Ninja; 01-08-2009 at 02:51 PM.
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 08:16 AM
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Get a C2, E2 or F1 F2.

If you get a C, grease up the gear change lever pivot point, this will reduce the chance of 3rd gear problems, also take out and grease up the chain adjuster bolts.
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 04:02 PM
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I have got a c2 and i love it.

Its got everything i need power, handling, looks and its unlike many sportbike a good daly driver.

Kawasaki zx9R
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-13-2009, 10:09 PM
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Issues are as follows
C1+C2 both shell out transmissions somewhere between 30k and 50k, luckily the newer trannies slip right in and are much tougher, no detachable subframe making them expensive to fix crash damage, warped brake rotors, can't bore out cylinders past 1mm, no rear ride height adjustments. In my opinion the C's are slightly more comfortable than the later bikes due to higher and narrower bars which reduce the weight on your wrists. C1's also have overly stiff suspensions for street use, C2's are a bit better. C's have more topend capability due to more aggressive intake cam and bigger ports.

E's have heavier steering but a little more frontend feedback and stability over the already very stable C's, Carburation is somewhat snatchy coming off of closed throttles especially at higher rpm's, lower but wider windshield over the C's, E1's have a tendency to break their frame on the left side on top of the frame in one of the bends

F's heavier but I have never heard of any real problems with them plus they have the cool braced swingarms and different front fairing stay instead of the one going up from frame like on the older bikes, carburation is fixed from the E's. E's and F's have better midrange than C's. The dual headlights are MUCH brighter than the C models single. The only common fault I've ever heard on ZX-9R's is the cam tensioner problems.

I got about 35k out of my first tranny in my C2, the cam chain tensioner went at about 25k. My front rotors lasted until around 40k. Other than those things it has been fine. Martian9r on this board has over 50k on his E1 with only the frame break problem and a seepy engine case, real weird issue he spread a thin coat of JB Weld on it and it quit seeping.

Also in your case since you're in the UK make sure you don't get one with a botched carb deicing system removal. I'm not sure if all UK bikes had them but I'm pretty sure some did, I'm also not sure if they actually helped the bike but you're cold humid air apparently can cause the carbs to ice up without the system which circulates warm coolant around the carbs.

Find a clean one of any vintage with low miles and enjoy riding one of the most capable all around motorcycles ever made. You can track day it, you can ride hard in the curves and you can throw soft bags on it and ride 500+ miles a day in relative comfort. If I had to replace mine I'd probably try to find an F model buy Heli-Bars, a Corbin seat, Double-Bubble windscreen, trasplant my suspension, engine and wheels and ride the hell out of it. I can't think of any current bikes that would fit the bill, they're either too uncomfortable, too heavy, don't handle or don't have enough power.
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old 01-14-2009, 01:49 AM
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Buy the 98' and convert the front to the 00'-01' style. I've owned both 98 and 01; the 98' was super fast with just an exhaust and jetting.
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