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post #971 of 987 (permalink) Old 10-23-2012, 11:03 PM
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Benefits of the kleen air mod, or PAIR valve mod/block off, is it makes tuning easier and eliminates the popping in the exhaust. Normally the bike draws air from the air box into the exhaust to help burn the unburned fuel that makes it to the exhaust. This was done to minimize polution coming out the tail pipe, but when you put on an aftermarket exhaust the fresh air in your exhaust causes poppping and shit on deceleration. It also makes dyno tuning more difficult because you're not really getting a true air to fuel ratio reading.

Michael I did the mod the same as you previously showed were you hook up the crank case breather to the pair valves, but I'm going to order block off plates probably next payday and toss the pair valves into the trash and re-route the crank case breather back to the air box like it was originally run. I already ordered a set for my VTX. Later down the road I'll finally invest in a jet kit for the Kawi to compliment the K&N filter and full open exhaust. I did order a Factory Pro kit for my VTX for only $56 on Amazon. It's nice only having the one carb on that bike.

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post #972 of 987 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 11:10 AM Thread Starter
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Kleen air mod Revisted.....

Iv taken another look at this mod,
It seems to have had a bit of traffic on zx6r.com, So Iv taken another look @ this mod & Iv made a few changes.
We will let the pics tell the story (we all love the pics)
First the old setup....

Decided to toss out the pair/3 way valve & put a filter on the crank case line(for now)
Heres the filter I got at AutoZone ...

And to catch any oil that may blow past, Iv coupled it with the pair valve filter, (yeah "Red-Neck" engineering at its finest)......

Here it is taped up & installed, Tucks in nicely behind the cilinder....

At the moment the pair valves look like this, But Iv decided I'm soon going to just get block offs.....



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post #973 of 987 (permalink) Old 10-24-2012, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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Carb tuning

Been real busy of late, After the Kleen redo it was time to retinue the carbs.
First you should tune the mix, Now 3 turns out is a good starting point,
But to really get em tuned to there best I followed the DynoJet instructions
(also zeroplace put me onto this)

After some experimenting I found this small type screwdriver to be best to do this job, note the white mark to help me see & keep track of the postion....

What were doing here is tuning the mix screw on each carb, We do this with the bike warmed up & running at idle.
Start with carb # 1 & turn it in(to the right)until you hear the bike start to stumble
Now turn it back out till the idle smooths out, Repeat this on carbs 2,3 & 4.

And don't wast your money on expensive screwdrivers like I did...

The long horizontally laid one at the top, worthless for our carbs.

Now its time to sync.



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post #974 of 987 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 03:07 AM
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The idle mixture screw is mainly for idle and up to maybe 1/8 throttle. After that, it doesn't do much for you. Depending on your mods and pilot jet sizes, the mixture screw will need to be set differently. So some people may be 3 turns, and others may be higher or lower.

You need to set your idle at the desired rpm, then set your idle mixture screws accordingly until the bike runs smoothly (like how Michael described). For the best setting, use your carb sync tool. Set the screws to get maximum vacuum for your idle speed. I'm sure going by ear like Michael said will work just fine, but if you're going to sync the carbs anyways, then why not, right?

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post #975 of 987 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 11:31 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah anytime you fool around with the carbs you will need to re sync em.
Iv got pics will post em up in a bit.



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post #976 of 987 (permalink) Old 10-25-2012, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryJ View Post
The idle mixture screw is mainly for idle and up to maybe 1/8 throttle. After that, it doesn't do much for you. Depending on your mods and pilot jet sizes, the mixture screw will need to be set differently. So some people may be 3 turns, and others may be higher or lower.

You need to set your idle at the desired rpm, then set your idle mixture screws accordingly until the bike runs smoothly (like how Michael described). For the best setting, use your carb sync tool. Set the screws to get maximum vacuum for your idle speed. I'm sure going by ear like Michael said will work just fine, but if you're going to sync the carbs anyways, then why not, right?
Maybe I forgot to mention the reason for tuning the mix, Yeah its to smooth out the idle. Now after you still need to sync.
I did so with my sync-Pro.



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post #977 of 987 (permalink) Old 10-26-2012, 07:16 PM
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You could have gone with a filter like I have on my VTX. I'm going to replace it with a nicer one with a chrome mount, so this one will go on my Kawi. My buddy has been running one on his GSXR for a while now.


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post #978 of 987 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 07:21 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah thats a nice clean filter, Mark over at zx6r.com has a chrome one like it.
gonna get something like it eventually(I just had to grab what was available at the Zone)

Not in a big hurry as it will never be seen on my bike anyway.



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post #979 of 987 (permalink) Old 10-27-2012, 07:26 PM Thread Starter
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Here's the one Mark got...

Breather Filter 18mm (Oil/Crankcase/Air) Small B | eBay



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post #980 of 987 (permalink) Old 11-02-2012, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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Time for a bit of carb syncing.

First gather all the bits your gonna need, Be sure your work area is well vented.
Warm the bike & provide it some fuel.
I use the Motion-Pro sync-pro tool, before it can be used it will have to be calibrated.
This is done using this little tool, all 4 lines go into one & then into the # 1 vacuum line....

Now crank her up again & we see why the tool needs to be cailabrated...

To calibrate, You need to adjust the 4 flathead screws by my thumb.
Should look like this when your done.....

Now the tool is ready, we need to hook all 4 lines into the 4 vacuum lines.
locate them just in front of the carbs..

Now reassemble the airbox....

Crank the bike again be sure its warmed up to operating temps....


Use a fan to keep it from overheating....


Before syncing.....


Now your ready to fiddle with the 3 adjusting screws, When your done,
This is what you want...

I like to turn the idle up to 1500-2000 RPM to do the sync.

Once your done, Hang the tool up & in time the fluid will all drain back down.
Never try to use it with the fluid like this...



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