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Old 05-30-2010, 12:58 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default 20,000 mile maintenance???

Well I just went over 20,000 miles a few days ago. What kind of maintenance do I need to do? Here's the thing. I've never had the valves ajusted, carbs cleaned, or anything like that. All I've done is keep up with oil changes, swapped out OEM chain and sprockets, and kept the chain clean and lubed. And I did spark plugs a few years ago (not sure how many miles on the plugs now). Bike runs just fine, but I can tell that it needs some tweeking. With the throttle barely cracked open while riding, the engine kinda hesitates or sputters (does it less in warm weather), which makes me think the carbs need cleaning, but while accelerating the bike pulls hard and doesn't appear to have any problem. I was considering taking the bike into the dealer and tell them I need a service. What does a "service" entail exactly? If it's going to cost a lot, I may have to bite the bullet and do these things myself. I prefer not to in fear I'll booger something up. The spark plugs I can handle just fine, but carb work and valves are unfamiliar territory. That and I have to do everything outside because I live in a damn condo. Also, I have a leaking fork, so seals need to be done in the near future, but a buddy of mine said he would help with that.
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Old 05-30-2010, 02:59 PM   #2 (permalink)
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well look at it this way, either the sputtering is just because your carb is dirty. OR your valves have gone all the way out of spec to the point where the cam is holding the valve a little bit open when it should be closed. If its the latter you're going to burn your valve seat and the heads are going to have to come off the bike to have new seats installed, along with a hefty bill.

In the maintenance sticky in this forum the first post has a link, and in that link is a write up of how to do a valve adjustment. It's not that hard, but i would not reccomend doing it in a parking lot.

Take it to a dealer asap, have them adjust the valves, clean the carbs, set the mixture screws and sync the carbs. Air filter might as well get cleaned/oiled while its out but they'll charge you for it and you can do that yourself so something to consider.

Either way be expecting a 500 dollar bill. Gotta pay to play.
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:10 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Hey thanks for the reply. I put the K&N in there not that long ago, so it should still be good for a long while. The dealer will charge about $200 for a carb cleaning, but from what I hear it's not that hard. Take the shit apart, soak in carb cleaner, dry the parts off, and reassemble. Pretty much it? What about these mixture screws I hear about? Some say they find theirs all out of whack. As far as carb syncronizing, I'll have to take it to the dealer or ask around because I don't have the flowmeter for that. God I can't wait to get a fuel injected bike. Lol. $500 is more than I want to spend for maintenance. I'd rather spend that on upgrades.
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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do it yourself, its pretty easy if you get the proper service manual - haynes will give you general tips - good advice here also - do it piece at a time (keep the area clean and well lit - i do all my work outside now just gotta watch for rolling bolts and kicking shit around, i use small plastic tubs to hold everything. i'd put down a sheet when doing the valves just incase.

easy to make a carb balancer out of 4-5mm clear plastic tube with coloured oil - make the tubes long enough as itll suck quite a distance(each about 4-5m) - all 4 joined at one end clamped to a 2x4 - google theres plenty of people do this - i can send pix of mine if you get stuck

check the pilot screws - count the turns on each before you remove so you can always put back the same

a "service" is normally just an oil change with plugs - a complete rip off imo and they will charge loads to do anything "complicated" or time heavy. to save money remove all fairings before taking to the dealer then he wont be charging you labour time to undo screws.

WATCH THE CARB SCREWS really easy to strip the heads and a bitch to remove if you do - the rest is just careful cleaning and reassembly - don't mix carb bits so 1 at a time or use small tubs

at least measure the valve clearances - setting is the only job i'd get the dealer to do if youre not confident calculating shim size.

basically lube and clean everything and check ALL bolts etc i'd also clean up the brake calipers while your at it - fork oil wouldn't hurt either

you can do it piece at a time - riding is ongoing maitenance - get intimate with her.
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:44 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Yeah I gotta do this shit myself. I hate other people working on my stuff. The last time my bike was at the dealer was for the 500 mile maintenance late 2005. Even with money out of the picture, I want to know my bike inside and out. The only downside I really see is having the bike out of commission while I'm doing this stuff. That's the appeal of taking it to a shop is they have alll the right tools and know-how to get the job done in a day. I'll have to suck it up I guess; I just hate driving a car anymore if I can help it.
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Old 05-30-2010, 03:49 PM   #6 (permalink)
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piece at a time means you'll only be out of action for a few hours at a time - ideal for after work - do the valves on your day off

i prefer to spend the labour charge on tools - works out the same cost but you get to keep them for next time

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Old 05-30-2010, 04:45 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by larryj80 View Post
God I can't wait to get a fuel injected bike. Lol. $500 is more than I want to spend for maintenance. I'd rather spend that on upgrades.
Checking the valves has nothing to do with it being carbed or fuel injected. Overtime the clearance between the camshaft and the bucket that pushes down on the valve gets closer and closer, to the point when it will eventually hang the valve open when it should be closed and destroy your valve seats.

Every bike on the planet needs its valves checked, our kawi's are just way more frequent then most, and you're more then double past the service. Doing the carb stuff is easy, but if your valve is hanging open you need to change the shims before you destroy your valve seats.

Checking the valves isn't that bad, but after this many miles i almost guarantee they will be out of spec. At which point you have to remove the cam, and go order new shims, which if your dealer doesn't stock you might be waiting for up to a week for. Sometimes you can talk to the mechanics in the back and they will sell you some from their personal stash, but if not you're out of luck. Valve shims are like 10 bucks a piece from the dealer and there is 16 shims. You cant order until you know what size you need, ie the valve and timing covers off, and if you need a lot of shims ordering hotcam shims can actually be much cheaper.

This is an absolutely necessary job on every bike, its part of the cost of riding, and you need to do it asap, or understand that you might be causing yourself a much more major repair bill, like to the extent of more then the bikes worth. Here is the link to doing the valves http://www.themcdonalds.net/~themcdo...lve_Clearances you decide if thats something you want to tackle in your parking lot. You will need a torque wrench and feeler guages for checking valves that will read in metric (most of the sae ones also have a metric size on every feeler).

The carb stuff is easy and something you can do in an afternoon, the valves are critical if you plan on getting another 20k miles out of this thing
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Old 05-31-2010, 01:14 AM   #8 (permalink)
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And its a good idea to sync the throttle bodies on FI bikes as well.

Like doug said, theres just as much maintenance involved with fuelies as there are with carbs.
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Old 05-31-2010, 10:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I just had the Kawasaki reccomended 15,000 mile service done on my bike. Included was a complete valve adjustment, carb clean and sync,new plugs, complete fluids change(brake fluid, oil, coolant) new air filter, and a complete bolt retourqe and the bill ran me $600. ( my valves were way out)
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Old 06-01-2010, 07:52 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Probably should look into having your fork oil changed and a valve adjustment.
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