removing front sprocket nut - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-03-2007, 06:36 AM Thread Starter
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removing front sprocket nut

ok so i am trying to replace my stock sprocket with a new one thats one tooth down. and i can't get the nut off to remove the sprockets... am i missing some important info or what... it is counter clockwise to remove correct??? and is there any easy way to do it? please help thanks
nick
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-03-2007, 07:27 AM
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2 words: Impact Wrench.
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-03-2007, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by bennsb
2 words: Impact Wrench.
[:+1]
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-03-2007, 01:19 PM
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On my 250 the sprocket nut is reverse thread, I'm not sure if thats the case with the 6R, but might be worth a try.

Put the bike in gear (if you havnt already tried that), it'll give you some resistance when you heave on it.

Also, try a breaker bar.
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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-03-2007, 01:48 PM
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If you took the chain off put it back on then put the bike in gear and have a buddy hold the rear brake on. This is the way I have always taken front sprockets off every bike I have worked on.
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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-03-2007, 02:20 PM
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The sprocket is a standard righty-tighty/lefty-loosey setup so it's counter-clockwise to remove. I just swapped mine out this past Tuesday and it was a PITA to get the front loose. After flattening the lock washer I put the bike on a rear stand and wedged a shovel-handle between the rear wheel and swingarm to keep it from turning. Then I just hooked up an 18" breaker bar, put a foot on the foot-peg and free hand on the seat to keep the bike steady and just kept yanking on the bar in quick forceful pulls (like a human impact gun). After about 20 of these quick yanks it broke free and could be spun off by hand.

I concur that an impact wrench would make much easier/quicker work of it if you have one available.
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-03-2007, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevalent
The sprocket is a standard righty-tighty/lefty-loosey setup so it's counter-clockwise to remove. I just swapped mine out this past Tuesday and it was a PITA to get the front loose. After flattening the lock washer I put the bike on a rear stand and wedged a shovel-handle between the rear wheel and swingarm to keep it from turning. Then I just hooked up an 18" breaker bar, put a foot on the foot-peg and free hand on the seat to keep the bike steady and just kept yanking on the bar in quick forceful pulls (like a human impact gun). After about 20 of these quick yanks it broke free and could be spun off by hand.

I concur that an impact wrench would make much easier/quicker work of it if you have one available.
nope, you aren't missing anything...it sucks.

2x4 through the spokes and over the swingarm....I broke the handle on my shovel..[B)]

now that I have an impact, its a piece-o-cake.
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-03-2007, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevalent
The sprocket is a standard righty-tighty/lefty-loosey setup so it's counter-clockwise to remove. I just swapped mine out this past Tuesday and it was a PITA to get the front loose. After flattening the lock washer I put the bike on a rear stand and wedged a shovel-handle between the rear wheel and swingarm to keep it from turning. Then I just hooked up an 18" breaker bar, put a foot on the foot-peg and free hand on the seat to keep the bike steady and just kept yanking on the bar in quick forceful pulls (like a human impact gun). After about 20 of these quick yanks it broke free and could be spun off by hand.

I concur that an impact wrench would make much easier/quicker work of it if you have one available.
I do it just like Kevelent except I use a 2x4 instead of a shovel handle for the same reason jbriet pointed out.

I use a breaker bar also but I slip a 4' pipe over the handle. The nut breaks loose with ease.
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-03-2007, 07:20 PM
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Forgot to mention...I use 3/4" drive sockets and breaker bar for this particular job. I would suggest you use AT LEAST 1/2" drive to break the nut loose with leverage. 3/8" drive might shear off before breaking the nut loose with that much leverage being applied.

I don't know about you but my dad will punch me in the face the next time he witness's me using a 3/8 drive "anything of his" with a leverage bar.[:0]
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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-04-2007, 12:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lionlvr
Forgot to mention...I use 3/4" drive sockets and breaker bar for this particular job. I would suggest you use AT LEAST 1/2" drive to break the nut loose with leverage. 3/8" drive might shear off before breaking the nut loose with that much leverage being applied.

I don't know about you but my dad will punch me in the face the next time he witness's me using a 3/8 drive "anything of his" with a leverage bar.[:0]
that brings back memories...
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