The image in the previous post looks exactly like the internals of my switch. That's really all you need. Though I found a new ignition switch on ebay for $34.95 (with free shipping.. wooo). Came with 2 keys.
At least on my bike, changing the ignition switch was just a matter of a few screws and bolts. Just had to remove the headlight (all of the wiring is behind the lamp itself) and detach the bolts holding the speedometer/tachometer. Once those bolts are removed, I was able to shift things around and get my hands in enough to remove the ignition switch (just had 2 hex screws on the bottom)
Normally the ignition cylinder is held into the triple tree clamp with headless bolts which require to be drilled out. They have an interesting way to do it at the factory that the heads of those bolts (which are some torx bit) snap off at the correct amount of torque.
Sadly when the microparts fiche recommends spacers for those bolts and they shouldn't, you end up with headless bolts and a ignition lock that doesn't work...So yeah, the lesson here is check your ignition lock as you continue tightening those bolts, lol.
you can drill the pins next to the pins that hold the waffer lock in place remove pins with an awl then dissasemble lock mechanism and clean its usually grit that gets in the wafers or old broken wafer return springs same thing happened to me
if i die at 150 tell em i was smile n and headed for living170