No power under load and only 14,5k RPM MAX - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-30-2019, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy No power under load @12k and only 14,5k RPM MAX

So i bought this bike this year and already put alot into it.

What was done:
- valve clearence
- breaks (all of it)
- plugs iridiums
- fork oil
- engine oil and all other liquids

Symptoms :

At idle it cuts out at 14,5k RPM (max is 15,5 red line on gauge - sometimes it hits it for 1 cycle but very rare - besides its not healthy to rev it that much w/o load)
Under load it goes very good untill you hit magical 12k RPM where you can feel that air gets in (more throtle = louder the intake) if you manage to balance t he throtle it will stop bogging and just cruise at 12k but when you change gear it will go faster like nothing happened (all gears).

I cleaned the pump + changed gas - there was nothing there. didnt help at all
Inspected fuel line - its ok
Pump gives well over 67ml on prime (around 90-100ml) do not have thingy to meassure the pressure.

Thats all i did so far
Next ill check kickstand switch.

Any advice?

Last edited by reassor; 06-01-2019 at 05:23 AM.
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-01-2019, 07:28 PM
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Did you check the cam sensor and the crankshaft sensor? from what i've been reading when those are going bad or have a pinched wire it affects stuff around that rpm range. Maybe check the coils resistance too?
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-02-2019, 01:29 PM
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Ecu problems ?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-06-2019, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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its what im afraid of. but ill leave that as last ressort.
We have immobilisers here so it goes with all locks and key or buy ecu and reflash which isnt cheap either.

ill also check TPS, and swap fuel pump for diffirent 1.

ill let you know for now i didnt even visit the garage didnt have time.
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-18-2019, 04:43 PM Thread Starter
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Well its not the pump and not kickstand switch.

Ordered used TB assembly (im just worried ill not be able to put it on cause its so tight in there :/ and my tools are silly :/

will see.


EDIT :
Whole TB assy was replaced. (with all sensors)
Bike is back with WOT around 16K but still no power after 12k - its better it will slowly climb while bogging but its still crap.
Next will be coils (im so stupid i did not check thier ressistance while i was inder the air box :/

So in conclusion while Main TPS could have been adding to the problem it was not sole cause of it.

Last edited by reassor; 06-19-2019 at 02:13 PM. Reason: AFTER REPORT :P
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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Wink up to 13.5k under load

What i did so far :

Replaced electric part of the fuel pump and the "filter" - works lot louder but no change.
Then that WOT w/o load got me thinking about coils and electrics.
Took the plugs out to find that on first cylinder it was black and diffirent from others. Checked the coils , chcecked the spark (just on cranking) and it was good and then i thought maybe the cap is loose or it shorts at high rpm.

Replaced coil on first cylinder and gained lots of power + now i was able to get it up to 13.5-14k rpm ubder load before it sputtered - atleast thats how it felt (only on 1st and 2nd gear - didnt have much room and didnt want to loose my license lol) and WOT in neutral now hits the limit

Ordered Voltometer - will mount it on dash and connect to diffirent places to see what happens to voltage when i hit that RPM wall.
Also will order fuel pressure gauge + vacuum gauge (but dunno when - Will try to get you all up to speed).

So if you cannot hit the real governor in neutral chance is its one of your coil / plug or connection there.



Maybe ill just go straight to flashing people for good AFR test and reflash.
Will see got whole winter to get some cash for it.

Cheers
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-05-2019, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reassor View Post
What i did so far :

Replaced electric part of the fuel pump and the "filter" - works lot louder but no change.
Then that WOT w/o load got me thinking about coils and electrics.
Took the plugs out to find that on first cylinder it was black and diffirent from others. Checked the coils , chcecked the spark (just on cranking) and it was good and then i thought maybe the cap is loose or it shorts at high rpm.

Replaced coil on first cylinder and gained lots of power + now i was able to get it up to 13.5-14k rpm ubder load before it sputtered - atleast thats how it felt (only on 1st and 2nd gear - didnt have much room and didnt want to loose my license lol) and WOT in neutral now hits the limit

Ordered Voltometer - will mount it on dash and connect to diffirent places to see what happens to voltage when i hit that RPM wall.
Also will order fuel pressure gauge + vacuum gauge (but dunno when - Will try to get you all up to speed).

So if you cannot hit the real governor in neutral chance is its one of your coil / plug or connection there.



Maybe ill just go straight to flashing people for good AFR test and reflash.
Will see got whole winter to get some cash for it.

Cheers
Good job and info
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-06-2019, 10:06 PM
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Have you checked cam position sensor and crank position sensor, sometimes the wires get pinched or maybe it just went bad and typically from what ive seen they make it have a limiter lower then actual redline.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 09-10-2019, 05:29 PM
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I had a problem similar to yours. It ended up being that the exhaust servo valve was stuck partially shut, restricting airflow at high RPM
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