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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-16-2014, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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er500 starting issues

Hey guys

I have an er500 99 that has a few starting/idle issues.

Originally the bike took around 10 seconds to start, wouldn't hold idle below 2k and misfired/backfired occasionally (not sure on the difference).

Sometimes when sitting at traffic the idle will drop out and die if the throttle isn't opened, and the other day all the power just went but came back after 20seconds or so (I think it was only firing on 1)

Then yesterday it refused to start so I replaced the plugs with iridium plugs (kinky) and replaced the ht leads. The bike then started and I was able to drop the idle to 1.2k and it holds quite stable.

I just started it to leave work and it took a whole to start - maybe a minute or so. It then rode for about 1.5miles find but then refused to hold idle and firing sounded a bit weak and lower revs.

Ive had a look and I've ordered some ignition coils - even if I don't need them always a handy spare to have. Ive also looked at the exhaust which although cool sounding doesnt exactly fit well - its just and end can clipped over a cut pipe and although the insertion is quite deep the fit is less then snug and therefore it probably leaks a bit. Would this cause running issues? I know it certainly would on a 2-smoke!

I'm starting to suspect it could be the carb set up. Maybe too much air? When choke is on idle goes from 1.2k to 3k - seems a bit high to me. I'm really no expert with carbs so could be wrong!

also when I took out the old plugs they where really black and horrible, like all gooey.

Any advise or ideas?
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-18-2014, 06:13 PM
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Make sure you have a clean air filter.

Try putting a lot of StarTron fuel cleaner in the gas tank, ride the bike hard for a few days, and tap on the carbs with a rubber mallet after about 3 days of riding. This is an easy attempt to get crud out of the carbs and into the bottom of the carb float bowls.

If the above easy cleaning does not work, you will probably have to take apart the carbs for cleaning, then synch them. It is a good idea to add a jet kit when you take the carbs apart- the stock jetting is lean for a cleaner exhaust and causes harder starting and a little less power, especially when it is cold outside.
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“Banking institutions have banished precious metals and substituted a more fluctuating and unsafe medium; they have withdrawn capital from useful improvements and employments to nourish idleness for the few, who prefer demoralizing pursuits to labors useful to the whole; the peace of the whole is endangered by evils more easily to be deplored than remedied." by Thomas Jefferson,1810 (edited)
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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Many thanks for your reply Jeff - starting to think your the only active user round here!

unfortunately I don't think we have starTron here in the uk - we do have redex but it does more harm than good. Think ill bite the bullet and overhaul the carbs.

Will check some other stuff and report back
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-19-2014, 06:20 PM
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It is sort of a wild guess what any problem might be from- I sometimes take a stab at what might typically be wrong and is easy to check, even if I could be completely wrong.

Maybe if my advice is way off, someone might kindly add a correction in a new post below mine. If you read a lot here you will see several calling me a moron, idiot, liberal, etc.

The factory service manual has several checklists to follow for troubleshooting that might help, and are more official coming from the factory engineers, instead of a backyard tinkerer like me.

Do you have Seafoam there? It was invented for cleaning 2-stroke boat motors in the 1930s, causing foam in the exhaust water.
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“Banking institutions have banished precious metals and substituted a more fluctuating and unsafe medium; they have withdrawn capital from useful improvements and employments to nourish idleness for the few, who prefer demoralizing pursuits to labors useful to the whole; the peace of the whole is endangered by evils more easily to be deplored than remedied." by Thomas Jefferson,1810 (edited)
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-21-2014, 06:38 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff in Kentucky View Post
It is sort of a wild guess what any problem might be from- I sometimes take a stab at what might typically be wrong and is easy to check, even if I could be completely wrong.

Maybe if my advice is way off, someone might kindly add a correction in a new post below mine. If you read a lot here you will see several calling me a moron, idiot, liberal, etc.

The factory service manual has several checklists to follow for troubleshooting that might help, and are more official coming from the factory engineers, instead of a backyard tinkerer like me.

Do you have Seafoam there? It was invented for cleaning 2-stroke boat motors in the 1930s, causing foam in the exhaust water.
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Ah yeah man - its all a wild guess this diagnosis stuff. Especially when you can't see the bike and all have to go from is 1 persons perspective of the symptoms.

Seafoam can be obtained here via eBay. Alot of this stuffs becoming harder to get cause of eu emissions laws.

Ive never understood why Americans see "liberal" as an insult. Then again most politics is liberal here compared to in the US.

Ive ordered a new hiflo air filter. Ive noticed the bike only stops idling when bike gets warm so I'm gonna check oil level and carb sync once I get a few hours away from work!
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 11-29-2014, 02:38 PM Thread Starter
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Well... finally got round to looking at the bike. Fitted a stock exhaust and changed air filter.

Decided to check compression... cylinder 1 - 150psi, cool... check cylinder 2...60psi, bollox!

Cylinder head tear down it is..... I really dont have the time right now >_<
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