I decided to finally go ahead and change my gauge backlight color after seeing xxdevilzeroxx's bike, as well as the several other ones posted in the "Changing you backlight color in your gauges" thread.
First off, I want to point you to that thread, which has tons of valuable information. Click Here
Second, This mod requires knowing how to solder. I learned by googling "how to solder." Specifically, I found this page to be extremely helpful, especially with the technique used to solder PLCC LEDs. Click Here
Tools Needed:
Sockets, Screwdriver, Allens keys, Soldering iron (mine was 25 watts), Rosin-Core solder (I used .032 diameter), Tweezers, Needle Nose pliers, 2 spoons, and most importantly PATIENCE
LEDs Needed: AT LEAST 10 Surface Mount LEDs (4 for the tach, 6 for the odo., speedo, etc.), 3.5mm x 2.8mm Refer to the other thread for more info about the LEDs. I got mine from eBay. 20 LEDs for about $10 shipped.
Time: 15 minutes to get the gauges out, 10 to take it apart, about an hour to solder, 20 minutes to put it all back, and at least 15 minutes to admire your work. Total = 2 hours, less if you know how to solder.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL. I am not responsible for any damage you may cause. TAKE YOUR TIME. Go slow and be careful not to burn yourself or the board.
Now on to the good stuff...
1. Remove the windscreen and pull back the rubber boot circled in green
2. Remove the 3 bolts circled in the picture (I believe they're 10mm)
3. Remove the 2 nuts that hold your mirrors and the bolt circled on each side to remove the fairing bracket
4. Remove the gauge cluster and the 3 Phillips screws that hold the cluster to the bracket
5. Remove the 9 screws circled
6. Remove the 5 screws circled (4 black, 1 silver)
7. Use 2 spoons to remove the needle. Be careful not to break anything. A LITTLE force will pull it off
8. These next 2 pictures show all of the LEDs that you will be replacing. The first 4 are easy. The other 6 are not. I just pried the LCD screen back far enough so that a AAA battery would hold it up away from the board. Again, BE CAREFUL.
9. Now follow the instructions in the 2nd link I posted above. Remove the old LEDs and solder in the new ones. I did mine one at a time. Note that the LEDs are directional. Each one has a small indentation on one corner that shows the cathode (shown as K on the circuit board) side. That should remove any guesswork involved with placement.
Again, Take your time. Be careful not to burn the board or any plastic attached to the board, especially when working underneath the LCD screen. It is a very tight fit.
10. Now it's time to test it out. I just put the tach screen back on and hooked it up to the bike. Turn the key and see this
11. If every LED lights your good to go. Just put everything back together and get it back on the bike to enjoy YOUR custom gauges.
NOTE: It is very important to get the needle back to the correct position. To do so, the needle must rest at "0" but not be able to go any further past "0." In other words, play around with positioning the needle until the point when it sits at "0" when you push it all the way to the right. When you plug it back in it should do a full sweep and stop back at "0." Hope that makes sense.
If one or more of the LEDs don't light up then you probably have it set wrong. Just turn it around and resolder it. Then test it again. If it still doesn't work then post up with your problem.
Final Product:
Thanks to xxdevilzeroxx for his advice, as well to all others that have performed this mod.
Now, DO IT, and enjoy.
First off, I want to point you to that thread, which has tons of valuable information. Click Here
Second, This mod requires knowing how to solder. I learned by googling "how to solder." Specifically, I found this page to be extremely helpful, especially with the technique used to solder PLCC LEDs. Click Here
Tools Needed:
Sockets, Screwdriver, Allens keys, Soldering iron (mine was 25 watts), Rosin-Core solder (I used .032 diameter), Tweezers, Needle Nose pliers, 2 spoons, and most importantly PATIENCE
LEDs Needed: AT LEAST 10 Surface Mount LEDs (4 for the tach, 6 for the odo., speedo, etc.), 3.5mm x 2.8mm Refer to the other thread for more info about the LEDs. I got mine from eBay. 20 LEDs for about $10 shipped.
Time: 15 minutes to get the gauges out, 10 to take it apart, about an hour to solder, 20 minutes to put it all back, and at least 15 minutes to admire your work. Total = 2 hours, less if you know how to solder.
PLEASE BE CAREFUL. I am not responsible for any damage you may cause. TAKE YOUR TIME. Go slow and be careful not to burn yourself or the board.
Now on to the good stuff...
1. Remove the windscreen and pull back the rubber boot circled in green
2. Remove the 3 bolts circled in the picture (I believe they're 10mm)
3. Remove the 2 nuts that hold your mirrors and the bolt circled on each side to remove the fairing bracket
4. Remove the gauge cluster and the 3 Phillips screws that hold the cluster to the bracket
5. Remove the 9 screws circled
6. Remove the 5 screws circled (4 black, 1 silver)
7. Use 2 spoons to remove the needle. Be careful not to break anything. A LITTLE force will pull it off
8. These next 2 pictures show all of the LEDs that you will be replacing. The first 4 are easy. The other 6 are not. I just pried the LCD screen back far enough so that a AAA battery would hold it up away from the board. Again, BE CAREFUL.
9. Now follow the instructions in the 2nd link I posted above. Remove the old LEDs and solder in the new ones. I did mine one at a time. Note that the LEDs are directional. Each one has a small indentation on one corner that shows the cathode (shown as K on the circuit board) side. That should remove any guesswork involved with placement.
Again, Take your time. Be careful not to burn the board or any plastic attached to the board, especially when working underneath the LCD screen. It is a very tight fit.
10. Now it's time to test it out. I just put the tach screen back on and hooked it up to the bike. Turn the key and see this
11. If every LED lights your good to go. Just put everything back together and get it back on the bike to enjoy YOUR custom gauges.
NOTE: It is very important to get the needle back to the correct position. To do so, the needle must rest at "0" but not be able to go any further past "0." In other words, play around with positioning the needle until the point when it sits at "0" when you push it all the way to the right. When you plug it back in it should do a full sweep and stop back at "0." Hope that makes sense.
If one or more of the LEDs don't light up then you probably have it set wrong. Just turn it around and resolder it. Then test it again. If it still doesn't work then post up with your problem.
Final Product:
Thanks to xxdevilzeroxx for his advice, as well to all others that have performed this mod.
Now, DO IT, and enjoy.