Oil Thread - Page 2 - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #11 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-23-2005, 09:26 PM
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Originally posted by Eddy
The WORSE oil you can use in your motorcyle is a alleged motorcycle oil none of which own a refinery and buy their oil from someome else.
...interesting point [^]
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post #12 of 38 (permalink) Old 03-28-2005, 04:46 AM
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The Automotive additive to watch out for is found in the lower part of the oil rating circle found on the back of the quart. If this lower half indicates "Energy Conserving" it has Teflon or some equivalent additive, which supposedly, makes it Super-Slippery and thus, conserves energy in your car engine. I've heard of some experiencing clutch slipping when using oils with the energy conserving rating. (Mobil 1 Synthetic 15W-50 is not rated as "Energy Conserving")
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post #13 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-27-2005, 11:42 PM
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I'm still breaking in my 05 ZX-6R so I had a hard time finding a non-synthetic, non-energy conserving, 10-w40, type API SE, SF or SG (or SH or SJ with JASO MA) oil to use for my first oil change. I went with Mobil "clean 5000". It met the API and SAE requirements in the owners manuel...

I hope it allright, I felt kinda paranoid picking it out after reading all of these oil threads.
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post #14 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-28-2005, 07:23 PM
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That oil will be fine. You may also want to try Shell Rotella its a 15w-40 found at Walmart its a really good oil and it won't sheer down to a 30 weight like the 10-40 will. (Not trying to scare you you'll be just fine)

If you want to put non OEM oil filters on use a group 5 filter listed on here: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/FilterXRef.html
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post #15 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-28-2005, 11:46 PM
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post #16 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-28-2005, 06:49 PM
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Originally posted by Eddy<br />Kwak is another brain washed dummy but don't fault him too much because he has a lot of company. The WORSE oil you can use in your motorcyle is a alleged motorcycle oil none of which own a refinery and buy their oil from someome else.

The two best oils in the world are Amsoil oil and Mobil #1. PERIOD!
Nope on both paragraphs .

An Independent Oil Co such as Synergyn , Torco , Maxima ect builds better oils with much higher additive treat rate along with better suited viscosity index improvers . The Corporate bean counters are not in the way of things nor is the EPA and API in terms of max allowable percent by weight phoforus and zinc which are used in bike specific oils in larger amounts than todays car oils .

I'll not argue the point . Seen too much of that little bit of knowledge can do alot of harm on the net in the distant and not so distant past when it comes to oil topics .

Remember when looking below that boron , overbased magnesium , zinc and phosforus in higher amounts make a better bike oil . The more thats in the oil , the better the protection and I'm not even including base oil types and amounts used .

Current Castrol 10w-40 GTW is the same as their 20w-50

Here is plain Castrol GTX 10w-40 mineral oil

Moly 43
Magnesium 7
Calcium 1140
Phosphorus 520
Zinc 650
Silicone 8
Vi 100c 14.1

Motul 3000 10w-40 mineral oil same as Kawachem 10w-40

Boron 91
Magnesium 377
Calcium 1086
Phos 972
Zinc 1045
Si 8
Vi @ 100c 13.9

Now a few synthetics to include Amsoils latest [|)]@ 9 bucks a quart

Amsoil 10w-40
Moly 44
Magnesium 19
Calcium 3080
Phosphorus 1238
Zinc 1323
Vi 100c 13.9

Mobil 10w-40 bike oil

Moly 60
Magnesium 15
Calcium 2800
Phosphorus 1660
Zinc 1710
Vi 100c 13.8

Mobil Extended Performane 15w-50 car oil at 5 bucks a quart

Moly 78
Boron 290
Calcium 2951
Magnesium 18
Phosforus 1230
Zinc 1381
VI @ 100c 18.0

Maxima Extra 4 10w-40 @ 7 bucks per

Antinomy 1020
Magnesium 640
Calcium 700
Phosphorus 3390
Zinc 2530
Silicone 10
Vi 100c 12.5

John Deer 0w-40 Syn Blend made by Chevron just for grins

Moly 121
Phosphorus 1906
Zinc 1744
Magnesium 17
Calcium 4663
Silicon 11
VI @ 100C 14.92

I don't have time or want to go into the base oils used but this should give an example of how some oils are built better than others when it come to bike oils AND show proof small companies can and do make superior products and big giant Mobil can build oils at lower price than it's competitors do to shear volume and in house additive developement . Mobil sells their base oils to Amsoil because Amsoil does NOT have a refinery like you allow in the quote .

Boosted , all those oils you copied and pasted are fom almost a decade back . Much has changed since . Even the J300 viscosity chart is under scrutiny for change .

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post #17 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-03-2005, 12:10 AM
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post #18 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-03-2005, 01:09 AM
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Originally posted by Blue636<br />When you buy your bike new, it couldn't hurt to change the oil as soon as 20-50 miles. During break-in, do not use synthetic oil or semi-synthetic oil. Personally, I would not use synthetic until the bike has 3,000-5,000 miles on it. Many of you would disagree but many of you also get your information from here and other forums filled with misinformation (not to say that it's *always* misinformation). How did I come up with the 3k-5k number? From Castrol and the Wiseco Piston Company. Break-in is the final "machining process", if you will, parts scrub against each other and undergo heat cycles to help them form and create seals. Anyway, synthetic oil may lengthen the process or prevent it altogether. At any rate, break-in is NOT over when the 1,500 miles or 1,000 miles are up. Once you hit those mileages it generally means you can start running the bike full power and up to redline but the bike has not completely broken in. Save the synthetic oil for later, it couldn't hurt and may save you a few bucks.

When you check the oil daily you should check it cold with the bike perpendicular to the ground. Simply stand to the side of the bike (where the oil window is), straighten the front wheel, balance it and squat down to look at the sight glass. It's a piece of cake. You want the oil level to be right between the low-level and high-level lines. A good rule of thumb is, if you're not sure about the right levels after changing or losing oil, it's better to be slightly under than slightly over.

Be sure to change your filter every single time you change the oil. You wouldn't take a shower and put your old underwear and socks back on, would you? I thought so.

When changing oil, add the recommended amount of oil as suggested by the manufacturer with a filter change. Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes and shut it off. Check for leaks and then let it rest for several minutes - then check the oil level with the bike perpendicular to the ground... no rear stands. Adjust oil level accordingly.

In terms of what oil to use that is strictly up to you. However, be sure that the oil you are using meets or exceeds the ratings and requirements of the manufacturer. If you run the bike hard on the streets, a conventional oil or semi-synthetic oil may do just fine. If you race the bike or run it up to or near redline on every ride, or you want to extend your oil change intervals then a full synthetic may be worth your money. A good viscosity range is 10w-40 as it's suitable for most atmospheric conditions. Unless it's 100 degrees outside all the time I would not go as far as 20w-50 because when oil gets dirty it does thicken up. As far as friction modifiers and moly go, it may or may not affect the bike AT ALL. It really depends on the individual bike and the type of oil.

If you ride the bike infrequently, make short trips, and average 5k miles a year or less then I'd change the oil every 3-5 months. If you ride the bike very frequently and average 10k miles a year or more then 2,500-3,000 mile intervals are good and you can go a few hundred miles more on synthetic oil.

In the end, I must say that with the selection nowadays that oil is oil. The oil's job is to protect moving parts by creating a thin film between them that usually separates them at an almost-microscopic level. Oil also carries away heat from parts that get very hot in the engine. Oil also protects the clutch in wet-clutch bikes. Finally, the last thing I can think of is that oil keeps an engine clean by carrying away dirt, acids, and so forth to the oil filter. Unless you want your engine to go over 100k miles, I wouldn't be so picky when choosing oil so long as it meets the manufacturer's demands. I believe that the claims that oil manufacturers make are just marketing and so designer oils are worth almost only peace of mind (which is a good enough excuse for 90% of motorcyclists).

With the subject of mixing oils popping up now and then I'd like to say that you can safely mix viscosities, synthetics, conventionals, semi-synths, and just about anything else in your bike so long as they meet the manufacturer's demands. I wouldn't recommend doing so but if it is necessary (such as topping off in the middle of nowhere) then it is perfectly safe.

Here is a small list of good and decent brands of oil in no particular order...

-Bel Ray
-Golden Spectro
-Valvoline 4-stroke

Please feel free to add, detract, and contend any of the information or misinformation I may have provided.
your the one missinformed dude.if you change the oil at 25 miles youll be washing out the engine assembly lube that is designed to run in the motor through the break in period for one specific reason.breaking the fuckn motor in.and as far as the people on this forum being miss informed these people are here to share their ideas with each other so as a whole group come up with reasonable solutions to each others problems.if you think we are misinformed why dont you go to a different forum where you can be the king fuckin dumbass and spread your worthless data there.[:M111][:M53]
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post #19 of 38 (permalink) Old 10-03-2005, 01:19 AM
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and if you think oil companys are designing there products with your best interest at hand your a complete fool.10w40the 10w works when the bikes cool the 40 takes over when its hot[:M13]bullshit they mix the oil like that so it doesnt last as long.under their own fukn theory half the oil in your motor at any givin time is doing nothing.think about it.
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post #20 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-12-2006, 06:14 AM
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drop a line to pm lubricants- through www.pmlubricants.com.au where you can contact them for their comparison tests between their oil and Mobil 1. I asked them why shouldnt I use the mobil1, they laughed and showed me independant test results showing wear particles in the 2 different oils. quite amazing- worth just checking
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