Oil Thread - Page 3 - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #21 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-15-2006, 01:03 PM
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m'kay. the assembly lube goes away and mixes with your oil after like the first warm up perioud, its there for when you first start the engine, because if that where not there, then you would just damage the engine with no oil to lube anything. but when the bike warms up, the oil mixxes with it and washes it away. now 20-50 miles is about the right time to change yer oil. 80% of break in is done during that time, the other 20% is spread out over a verry long time. if you ever change your oil in a new bike or a fresh rebiuld after 20-50 miles, look at the metal in the oil, thats not what you want circulating thirough your engine.

have a look at this: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Also, please reframe from profanity, it makes you look like you are uneducated, and thereby ruining your credibility. and it is also offencive to some who read it.
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post #22 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-16-2006, 05:15 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by bradcad1
drop a line to pm lubricants- through www.pmlubricants.com.au where you can contact them for their comparison tests between their oil and Mobil 1. I asked them why shouldnt I use the mobil1, they laughed and showed me independant test results showing wear particles in the 2 different oils. quite amazing- worth just checking
I'm not disputing their results as I've never seen them, but I'm always weary of a company offering up an "independant" report showing their product vs a competitors.
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post #23 of 38 (permalink) Old 04-27-2006, 12:40 AM
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no worries envy i've been trying to get you guys to 'test' some of this oil for yourselves- i would invite you again..
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post #24 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-27-2006, 05:33 AM
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On a new bike changing the oil between 20 - 50 miles is a very important step. It's true that about 5 minutes after the bike is at full operating temp the assembly lube is washed away into the oil as it has accomplished its mission....to allow the engine to start without galling or spinning bearings. If you don't believe this is a good idea then follow these steps.

1) Drain oil at 20 - 50 miles.
2) Attach rare earth magnet to some string.
3) Drag the magnet through the drained oil for a minute or so.
4) If what you see attached to the magnet makes you happy then put the oil back in the bike. (Pour through terry cloth if you can't get magnet and string).
5) If what you see blows your mind in complete disbelief.....then put new oil in your prized possession.
6) New filter too.

The amount of bearing surface, ring material, and other stray metal particles that come loose in the first few miles is amazing....even to experienced engine builders. Don't get me started on the crap that comes loose from the casting process.

I change my oil AND filter in new vehicles at 20 miles, 100 miles, and 500 miles. Then I follow regular intervals for life of motor.

No synthetics for me until at least 5,000 miles.
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post #25 of 38 (permalink) Old 06-29-2006, 03:47 PM
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sooooo...... how about someone just tell me what to put in my motersickle. I just bought a '03 636 and changed the oil out for Mobil 1 10W-30. Was this a bad choice? I live in North Texas, current av temp ~97degF +/-5. The bike will be seeing the track in Level 3/4 on occassion in the future. In hindsight, I believe that I may well be pushing the upper temp limit of 10W-30.......

should I have gone for Mobil 1 10W-40? Someone mentioned Mobil 1 "10W-40 bike oil" is this different to normal Mobil 1 10W-40? (Sorry to start the shitstorm again!

I understand that all advice is personal opinion, some based on fact some based on BS.
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post #26 of 38 (permalink) Old 07-25-2006, 12:31 PM
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uhh... so "someone i know" used fully synthetic oil at the 600 mile service. what's going to happen? the engine isn't going to holy hell is it? stupid hawaii kawi dealers apparently know about as much as i do when it comes to bikes.
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post #27 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-05-2006, 06:45 AM
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rotela 15-40 baby
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post #28 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-05-2006, 10:12 PM
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Many people use synthetic oil and I have to stand against that when using it on a motorcycle. I race cars and I vouch and push for Synthetic every chance I get but I donít recommend it on motorcycles.

Remember when changing the oil on a motorcycle you are not changeling the engine oil only but also the tranny oil. Tarannies sometimes on cars and motorcycles donít like Synthetic because it too slippery for the syncros. I had my share of experience using synthetic oils on trannies and let me say that it was never a good experience. The shifting becomes botchier and not smooth.

Yes we will be sacrificing engine life by using regular oil but the tranny life is just as important.

Thanks
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post #29 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-11-2006, 03:48 AM
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I have been using redline full synthetic racing oil in my zx6rr for over a year and it is great. I have over 13k miles on it and it shifts like a dream. I have been taking it to the dragstrip over the last 5 months and no clutch slippage, or missed shifts and my bike runs about 10 degrees cooler. That's over 75 runs while seriously riding the clutch to keep the front end down off the line. My dad is running redline's 50 weight racing synthetic in his 200ft/lb 180hp nitrous Yamaha Roadstar Warrior at the drags with no problems at all. It is regularly well over 90 degrees when we run here in Florida as a rule. He is a lubrication engineer for one of the top 5 oil companies in the world so I definitely listen when he talks on the subject. Just my 2 cents, guys.
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post #30 of 38 (permalink) Old 09-14-2006, 08:32 PM
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i used shell rotella 15w-40 for my first oil change and then switched to shell rotella 5w-40 synthetic ever since. i love that stuff, cheap too, availible at walmart. i have over 12K miles on my bike without a problem.
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