I know theres a ton of resources on the free mods for zx6r's, but i see way too many people asking how to. Im here to make things simple. Im a mod freak and fortunately (or unfortunately, however you look at it) have a brain thats wired like a mechanic, so instead of just telling you how, i can also tell you why, which may make things a little easier to understand. I have an 05 636 and have done all these mods. PERFORM THESE MODS IN THIS ORDER, youll see why. Here goes:
This is very easy, and only requires 5 minutes and a 1 inch piece of wire. Remove your seat, find the BLACK plug that has 4 connections. Take your 1 inch piece of wire (anything will do- from guitar string to automotive grade insulated wire), connect the bottom left connection to the top right (with the plug lock on the top). Put the plug back together. What this does is opens up the european map of the computer. This is said to give you horsepower gains of 6.1, and will lower torque by .2 lbs, but will cause the hp and torque curves to climb steeper and hold on for an extra 2 grand or so (this is dyno proven). Here is a how-to on youtube:
. WARNING: do this with the bike OFF, and if you jump the wrong connectors, it WILL fry the computer.
-RAM AIR MOD
-This is a little tougher, but is still very easy. Simply remove the air baffle underneath the ram air tube, put the screw back into place to plug up this hole, remove the rubber grommet on the hole that connected the tube and the baffle and plug it up with something. I went to my local hardware store and found a plastic insert the exact size of the hole with 2 locking pins on each side for less than a dollar (i wanna say the hole is 1.25 inch in diameter, but measure first to be sure). You can also put duct tape on the inside of the tube over top the hole to smooth it out. Taking it a step further: if you have a few more minutes, completely remove the ram air tube (you have to remove the mirrors, unbolt the 3 bolts that are holding the tube to the brace that bolts down the mirrors and guage cluster, remove the 2 bolts holding the brace to the bike, then remove the screws that are holding the 2 pieces of the tube together, unbolt the bolts holding the tube to the frame, remove the upper section of the tube, now the lower). Once the tube is out of the way, youll notice 2 large holes in the frame, on each side of the diverter. Put duct tape over these holes (instructions straight from the race manual). This is drastically easier if you remove the airbox completely, which youll have to do for the next mod anyways. Also, theres 2 small holes in the bottom of the airbox. If you havent already, lift up the tank, disconnect the air box from the 4 intake rubbers, and put duct tape over these as well (you may be able to get to them from the inside of the airbox, depending on how small your hands are). Also, the race manual says to remove the mesh insert at the very front of the ram air tube, but I would suggest not doing this in order to keep bigger objects from entering the air box. What this does is allow the air to flow better. No hp gains will be seen, and honestly i think the only reason people do this is for the louder "sucking" sound under hard acceleration. Although, it is in the race manual (WILL help with highly modified bikes) and my theory is that if the air flows better, it should help out at least a little. After all, one of the reasons for cold air intakes is for the air to flow better. Theres no real how-to's on youtube, poke around forums and youll find a step-by-step how-to with pics.
-KLEEN AIR MOD
You should have the tank up and the air box disconnected from the previous mod. Look under the air box. Youll see a few rubber hoses. The one that goes to the valve cover, simply remove this hose and plug up both holes. Also, there is a smaller hose on the back side of the valve (on top of the valve cover), remove this and plug both holes. There are many complicated how-to's and even kits you can buy online. Don't. Simply get rid of the hoses. What youre doing: the kleen air system pulls clean air from the air box and inserts it into the exhaust stream. This makes for better emissions. I have heard when you get an aftermarket exhaust it makes a popping noise on deceleration, this is said to cure this. Also, people say you cant dyno tune correctly unless youve performed this mod (makes sense- the dyno reads the O2 in the exhaust stream, the extra clean air will fool the dyno). When you do it this way, you are leaving the kleen air system intact so youre FI light wont be coming on. (no hp gains here though). Here is a step-by-step how-to with pics: https://www.kawiforums.com/2009-2012-...d-history.html
-Secondary butterfly removal
While you have the air box removed, look down into the throttle bodies. Youll see 2 sets of butterflies. The VERY FIRST set you see, simply remove these by unscrewing the 8 bolts (2 per butterfly). This is said to give better throttle response and a slightly better mid/high rev power.
-Velocity stack mod
You should have the air box removed from the last step; remove the air filter, and you should see the rubber velocity stacks. For whatever reason, Kawasaki decided it was a good idea to make the 2 in the middle taller than the outside 2. Look online for a set of STOCK OEM velocity stacks, and swap out the 2 taller for 2 shorter. There are also expensive kits you can buy that replaces all 4, at differing heights. Or, for free, you can modify the existing stacks by removing them and cutting them down to the desired height. If you ever decide to go back to stock, you can get all 4 OEM for pretty cheap. This is said to increase throttle response and mid/high rev power.
-MOTO GP SHIFT
This mod is purely rider preference. Simply remove the shift linkage from the spindle coming out of the transmission (10mm bolt), and install the linkage back onto the spindle after rotating 180. This causes the bike to be 1 up, 5 down. The reason for this mod: guys that race will do this so they dont have to jam their foot underneath the shifter when upshifting through corners, which risks your foot hitting the ground, therefore dumping the bike. After re-installing the shift linkage, play with it a little to make sure you got it in the correct spot. Also, you can play with it one tooth either way to put the shifter right where its comfortable for you (also you can adjust the old fashioned way). No you wont destroy youre transmission/clutch if you do this. Getting used to the reverse shifting is up to you- if youve rode for years and years, itll be harder, if you just started riding itll be easier. But, it is do-able, just think about it everytime you shift, and eventually youll notice yourself not thinking about it. Here is a youtube how-to:
(mines an 05 so a little different, and i dont think i have the marks to line it up, but same idea).
-1/4 turn throttle mod
Also known as the zip tie mod. Allows for full throttle with a shorter twist of the throttle. There are also kits you can buy and ive seen a nice write up on using pvc pipe instead of a zip tie. Google search zx6r zip tie mod and theres a ton of resources on the subject. Ive heard you can accomplish the same with using an R6 throttle twist.
Lots and lots of stickers. Just one sticker can add up to 50hp. The more you know...
Please ask any questions, like i said i have the gift of a mechanic's brain and am mechanically inclined, so this stuff comes easy to me. Also, i would recommend tuning your steering dampers for your body weight/ style of riding. Im not gonna explain how-to, do a google search or ask a local shop to help you. Also, for not a whole lot of money, you can do things like a race filter, exhaust/ slip on, power commander, re-geared sprockets, etc. Play around with some things and see what works best for you.