The ULTIMATE how-to guide on zx6r FREE mods - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-01-2014, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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The ULTIMATE how-to guide on zx6r FREE mods

I know theres a ton of resources on the free mods for zx6r's, but i see way too many people asking how to. Im here to make things simple. Im a mod freak and fortunately (or unfortunately, however you look at it) have a brain thats wired like a mechanic, so instead of just telling you how, i can also tell you why, which may make things a little easier to understand. I have an 05 636 and have done all these mods. PERFORM THESE MODS IN THIS ORDER, youll see why. Here goes:

-JUMPER MOD
This is very easy, and only requires 5 minutes and a 1 inch piece of wire. Remove your seat, find the BLACK plug that has 4 connections. Take your 1 inch piece of wire (anything will do- from guitar string to automotive grade insulated wire), connect the bottom left connection to the top right (with the plug lock on the top). Put the plug back together. What this does is opens up the european map of the computer. This is said to give you horsepower gains of 6.1, and will lower torque by .2 lbs, but will cause the hp and torque curves to climb steeper and hold on for an extra 2 grand or so (this is dyno proven). Here is a how-to on youtube:
. WARNING: do this with the bike OFF, and if you jump the wrong connectors, it WILL fry the computer.


-RAM AIR MOD
-This is a little tougher, but is still very easy. Simply remove the air baffle underneath the ram air tube, put the screw back into place to plug up this hole, remove the rubber grommet on the hole that connected the tube and the baffle and plug it up with something. I went to my local hardware store and found a plastic insert the exact size of the hole with 2 locking pins on each side for less than a dollar (i wanna say the hole is 1.25 inch in diameter, but measure first to be sure). You can also put duct tape on the inside of the tube over top the hole to smooth it out. Taking it a step further: if you have a few more minutes, completely remove the ram air tube (you have to remove the mirrors, unbolt the 3 bolts that are holding the tube to the brace that bolts down the mirrors and guage cluster, remove the 2 bolts holding the brace to the bike, then remove the screws that are holding the 2 pieces of the tube together, unbolt the bolts holding the tube to the frame, remove the upper section of the tube, now the lower). Once the tube is out of the way, youll notice 2 large holes in the frame, on each side of the diverter. Put duct tape over these holes (instructions straight from the race manual). This is drastically easier if you remove the airbox completely, which youll have to do for the next mod anyways. Also, theres 2 small holes in the bottom of the airbox. If you havent already, lift up the tank, disconnect the air box from the 4 intake rubbers, and put duct tape over these as well (you may be able to get to them from the inside of the airbox, depending on how small your hands are). Also, the race manual says to remove the mesh insert at the very front of the ram air tube, but I would suggest not doing this in order to keep bigger objects from entering the air box. What this does is allow the air to flow better. No hp gains will be seen, and honestly i think the only reason people do this is for the louder "sucking" sound under hard acceleration. Although, it is in the race manual (WILL help with highly modified bikes) and my theory is that if the air flows better, it should help out at least a little. After all, one of the reasons for cold air intakes is for the air to flow better. Theres no real how-to's on youtube, poke around forums and youll find a step-by-step how-to with pics.


-KLEEN AIR MOD
You should have the tank up and the air box disconnected from the previous mod. Look under the air box. Youll see a few rubber hoses. The one that goes to the valve cover, simply remove this hose and plug up both holes. Also, there is a smaller hose on the back side of the valve (on top of the valve cover), remove this and plug both holes. There are many complicated how-to's and even kits you can buy online. Don't. Simply get rid of the hoses. What youre doing: the kleen air system pulls clean air from the air box and inserts it into the exhaust stream. This makes for better emissions. I have heard when you get an aftermarket exhaust it makes a popping noise on deceleration, this is said to cure this. Also, people say you cant dyno tune correctly unless youve performed this mod (makes sense- the dyno reads the O2 in the exhaust stream, the extra clean air will fool the dyno). When you do it this way, you are leaving the kleen air system intact so youre FI light wont be coming on. (no hp gains here though). Here is a step-by-step how-to with pics: https://www.kawiforums.com/2009-2012-...d-history.html.


-Secondary butterfly removal
While you have the air box removed, look down into the throttle bodies. Youll see 2 sets of butterflies. The VERY FIRST set you see, simply remove these by unscrewing the 8 bolts (2 per butterfly). This is said to give better throttle response and a slightly better mid/high rev power.


-Velocity stack mod
You should have the air box removed from the last step; remove the air filter, and you should see the rubber velocity stacks. For whatever reason, Kawasaki decided it was a good idea to make the 2 in the middle taller than the outside 2. Look online for a set of STOCK OEM velocity stacks, and swap out the 2 taller for 2 shorter. There are also expensive kits you can buy that replaces all 4, at differing heights. Or, for free, you can modify the existing stacks by removing them and cutting them down to the desired height. If you ever decide to go back to stock, you can get all 4 OEM for pretty cheap. This is said to increase throttle response and mid/high rev power.


-MOTO GP SHIFT
This mod is purely rider preference. Simply remove the shift linkage from the spindle coming out of the transmission (10mm bolt), and install the linkage back onto the spindle after rotating 180. This causes the bike to be 1 up, 5 down. The reason for this mod: guys that race will do this so they dont have to jam their foot underneath the shifter when upshifting through corners, which risks your foot hitting the ground, therefore dumping the bike. After re-installing the shift linkage, play with it a little to make sure you got it in the correct spot. Also, you can play with it one tooth either way to put the shifter right where its comfortable for you (also you can adjust the old fashioned way). No you wont destroy youre transmission/clutch if you do this. Getting used to the reverse shifting is up to you- if youve rode for years and years, itll be harder, if you just started riding itll be easier. But, it is do-able, just think about it everytime you shift, and eventually youll notice yourself not thinking about it. Here is a youtube how-to:
(mines an 05 so a little different, and i dont think i have the marks to line it up, but same idea).


-1/4 turn throttle mod
Also known as the zip tie mod. Allows for full throttle with a shorter twist of the throttle. There are also kits you can buy and ive seen a nice write up on using pvc pipe instead of a zip tie. Google search zx6r zip tie mod and theres a ton of resources on the subject. Ive heard you can accomplish the same with using an R6 throttle twist.


-STICKERS
Lots and lots of stickers. Just one sticker can add up to 50hp. The more you know...


Please ask any questions, like i said i have the gift of a mechanic's brain and am mechanically inclined, so this stuff comes easy to me. Also, i would recommend tuning your steering dampers for your body weight/ style of riding. Im not gonna explain how-to, do a google search or ask a local shop to help you. Also, for not a whole lot of money, you can do things like a race filter, exhaust/ slip on, power commander, re-geared sprockets, etc. Play around with some things and see what works best for you.

Last edited by apezman07; 03-19-2014 at 01:36 PM.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-14-2014, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apezman07 View Post
-STICKERS
Lots and lots of stickers. Just one sticker can add up to 50hp. The more you know...


Please ask any questions, like i said i have the gift of a mechanic's brain and am extremely mechanically inclined, so this stuff comes easy to me. Also, i would recommend tuning your steering dampers for your body weight/ style of riding. Im not gonna explain how-to, do a google search or ask a local shop to help you. Also, for not a whole lot of money, you can do things like a race filter, exhaust/ slip on, power commander, re-geared sprockets, etc. Play around with some things and see what works for you.
What would you say are the most performance-enhancing sticker colors? Matching green? Maybe contrasting red?

Seriously, does the MotoGP shift mod work on 03-04 as well? Thanks for the one-stop mod shop

'04 636 'fighter-'06 front end-Scotts dampener-Galfer lines-PCIII w/ Jeffo custom-Laser GP Xtreme exhaust-C'n'R levers-Danmoto rear sets-fender elim-Heli clips-custom fab CREE triple headlights & windscreen-Vortex frame/swingarm spool sliders-Kleen air mod-secondaries removed-more to come
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr1z View Post
What would you say are the most performance-enhancing sticker colors? Matching green? Maybe contrasting red?

Seriously, does the MotoGP shift mod work on 03-04 as well? Thanks for the one-stop mod shop
I would say the brighter the color and the more obnoxious the sticker is overall, the more hp gains youll see

The shift mod will work on virtually any bike. All you have to do is rotate whatever piece connects to the spindle 180 degrees.

By the way, take another look at the mod list, i added a few more this morning.

06 Ninja 636: full yosh exhaust, custom servo eliminator, jumper/ ram air/ kleen air mods, secondary butterflies removed, velocity stacks shortened, k&n filter, geared -1, +2, 120/70 tire up front, lowered in front & rear, gpr stabilizer, green hid headlights, blue underglow, fender eliminator, kawi racing windscreen, integrated led tail light, gold rims & custom paint, blacked out everything
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 09:13 PM
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U happen to know if velocity stacks are interchangeable between 03-04, 05-06 and 07-08? Doesn't look like they've changed the assembly considerably but it wouldn't take much.

'04 636 'fighter-'06 front end-Scotts dampener-Galfer lines-PCIII w/ Jeffo custom-Laser GP Xtreme exhaust-C'n'R levers-Danmoto rear sets-fender elim-Heli clips-custom fab CREE triple headlights & windscreen-Vortex frame/swingarm spool sliders-Kleen air mod-secondaries removed-more to come
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-16-2014, 10:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr1z View Post
U happen to know if velocity stacks are interchangeable between 03-04, 05-06 and 07-08? Doesn't look like they've changed the assembly considerably but it wouldn't take much.
i have no idea honestly. im sure a simple google search would yield some kind of answer. what i did was cut mine down with side cuts, then used a table grinder to smooth out the edges. so i wouldnt even buy a new set.

06 Ninja 636: full yosh exhaust, custom servo eliminator, jumper/ ram air/ kleen air mods, secondary butterflies removed, velocity stacks shortened, k&n filter, geared -1, +2, 120/70 tire up front, lowered in front & rear, gpr stabilizer, green hid headlights, blue underglow, fender eliminator, kawi racing windscreen, integrated led tail light, gold rims & custom paint, blacked out everything
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 02:38 PM
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I'll do some research. Just wondering cuz I can save my stock ones & get a full set from the newer air box for $16 on ebay if they fit. Cheapest I can find from 03-04 I'm paying $18 each for 2 new shorties or $35 on ebay for used full set and only use 2 of them…otherwise I'd just cut mine too. Thanks. Going to try the GP shift mod today, not sure w/ the location/orientation of my connection from rod to shaft if the little elbow piece will go on inverted, might not fit under the frame where it sits on the '04. We'll see. And then try to forget 22 years of muscle memory & shift "backwards" if it does work.

'04 636 'fighter-'06 front end-Scotts dampener-Galfer lines-PCIII w/ Jeffo custom-Laser GP Xtreme exhaust-C'n'R levers-Danmoto rear sets-fender elim-Heli clips-custom fab CREE triple headlights & windscreen-Vortex frame/swingarm spool sliders-Kleen air mod-secondaries removed-more to come
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-17-2014, 08:58 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gr1z View Post
I'll do some research. Just wondering cuz I can save my stock ones & get a full set from the newer air box for $16 on ebay if they fit. Cheapest I can find from 03-04 I'm paying $18 each for 2 new shorties or $35 on ebay for used full set and only use 2 of them…otherwise I'd just cut mine too. Thanks. Going to try the GP shift mod today, not sure w/ the location/orientation of my connection from rod to shaft if the little elbow piece will go on inverted, might not fit under the frame where it sits on the '04. We'll see. And then try to forget 22 years of muscle memory & shift "backwards" if it does work.
Thats a lot of muscle memory (sorry, im a young guy...only been riding for a few years)
im putting up how to vids tomorrow, moto gp conversion will be one of them. of course mines an 05, but youll get a better idea. when mine is inverted, the rod rubs against the frame, so im sure there will be at least a little clearance issue, but luckily mine doesnt bind up or anything.

06 Ninja 636: full yosh exhaust, custom servo eliminator, jumper/ ram air/ kleen air mods, secondary butterflies removed, velocity stacks shortened, k&n filter, geared -1, +2, 120/70 tire up front, lowered in front & rear, gpr stabilizer, green hid headlights, blue underglow, fender eliminator, kawi racing windscreen, integrated led tail light, gold rims & custom paint, blacked out everything
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-25-2014, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apezman07 View Post
Thats a lot of muscle memory (sorry, im a young guy...only been riding for a few years)
im putting up how to vids tomorrow, moto gp conversion will be one of them. of course mines an 05, but youll get a better idea. when mine is inverted, the rod rubs against the frame, so im sure there will be at least a little clearance issue, but luckily mine doesnt bind up or anything.
Finally looked at it a few days ago, too tight to be a flip n go. It won't even slide on far enough for the bolt to pass through the locator groove on the spindle. There's a write up on another forum where dude does it on the 03-04, but he had to clearance (pretty significantly) the sprocket cover, took about 3/8" of material out for about an inch or more of length above the elbow that bolts to the shaft going to the shift lever. Think I'm good, gonna skip it. Thanks for everything else though, nice to have it all on one page.

'04 636 'fighter-'06 front end-Scotts dampener-Galfer lines-PCIII w/ Jeffo custom-Laser GP Xtreme exhaust-C'n'R levers-Danmoto rear sets-fender elim-Heli clips-custom fab CREE triple headlights & windscreen-Vortex frame/swingarm spool sliders-Kleen air mod-secondaries removed-more to come
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 08:08 AM
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Seriously, does the MotoGP shift mod work on 03-04 as well? Thanks for the one-stop mod shop
No. If you attempt to flip the linkage on an 03-04, it will hit the front sprocket cover. You have three options: cut a notch in the cover to give some clearance, remove the cover completely and run without it (you'll lose your speedo because the speed sensor is mounted on the sprocket cover), or buy an aftermarket rearset that does this flip on the shift lever (I used Sato).

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-26-2014, 11:38 AM Thread Starter
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I have an 05, it works on mine (rubs on the frame a little but no binding). Dont know about 03/04, but looks like the consensus is no.

06 Ninja 636: full yosh exhaust, custom servo eliminator, jumper/ ram air/ kleen air mods, secondary butterflies removed, velocity stacks shortened, k&n filter, geared -1, +2, 120/70 tire up front, lowered in front & rear, gpr stabilizer, green hid headlights, blue underglow, fender eliminator, kawi racing windscreen, integrated led tail light, gold rims & custom paint, blacked out everything
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