Sorry for another oil thread. - Page 6 - KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums
 40Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #51 of 56 (permalink) Old 12-13-2015, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
Member
 
William's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Toronto Canada
Posts: 220
 
Sorry this is a bit off topic, but I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla that takes
0W-20 synthetic oil. This is the first vehicle that I've had that takes
synthetic oil. This engine runs way, way smoother than any other
engine I've ever had. If I could find a synthetic that makes my 650R
run as smooth as my Corolla, I'd use it.
185EZ likes this.
William is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #52 of 56 (permalink) Old 12-14-2015, 03:54 AM
Intermediate Member
 
GR rider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Thessaloniki, Greece
Posts: 1,885
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by William View Post
Sorry this is a bit off topic, but I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla that takes
0W-20 synthetic oil. This is the first vehicle that I've had that takes
synthetic oil. This engine runs way, way smoother than any other
engine I've ever had. If I could find a synthetic that makes my 650R
run as smooth as my Corolla, I'd use it.

Sitting one meter away from an inline four, or any car engine, with a bulkhead covered with sound proofing material in between is one thing, sitting atop of a parallel twin screwed on a metal frame a few cm away from you quite another.


Anyway, a parallel twin will never be as smooth as an I4 so it would be better for you to simply find an oil, synthetic or not, that makes your 650R run smoother than usual.


And with so much contradicting and officially unsupported information, right or wrong, it would be better to try different oil brands, viscosities and types, always according to factory specification, and decide for yourself which is the best.
GR rider is offline  
post #53 of 56 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 03:23 AM
Jr. Member
 
chrispage1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: London
Posts: 42
 
So, have we actually concluded what the best oil is for the all rounder - obviously lubing the engine, clutch and gear shifts?
185EZ likes this.
chrispage1 is offline  
 
post #54 of 56 (permalink) Old 12-15-2015, 12:46 PM
Jr. Member
 
panthercity's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: North Central Texas
Posts: 191
      
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrispage1 View Post
So, have we actually concluded what the best oil is for the all rounder - obviously lubing the engine, clutch and gear shifts?
Yep, the BEST oil is... the one you're happy with!
panthercity is offline  
post #55 of 56 (permalink) Old 12-19-2015, 02:10 PM
Core Member
 
Jeff in Kentucky's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 6,000
           
From a recent Bob is the Oil Guy thread:


“At temperatures freezing and above, there will be absolutely no difference in time between 0W, 5W, 10W, and 15W filling the galleries and hitting full oil pressure.


The wear is in the mid warm-up range, not startup, when the initial protection provided by viscosity is lost, and the oil moves into additive control of wear.


The middle range is the range to get through as quickly as you can - don't idle an engine to warm it, use it. [With carbs, the engine will stall if you take off when it is not warm enough, even with the choke still part way on.]


When you do an oil change (with filter), you only change around 85% of the oil because about 15% is stuck in the engine.”


From:
-
-
10w-30 vs 5w-40 question | Heavy Duty Engine Oil (HDEO) - Diesel/Gas Pickups/Trucks/Vans | Bob Is The Oil Guy
-
-
GR rider likes this.

“Banking institutions have banished precious metals and substituted a more fluctuating and unsafe medium; they have withdrawn capital from useful improvements and employments to nourish idleness for the few, who prefer demoralizing pursuits to labors useful to the whole; the peace of the whole is endangered by evils more easily to be deplored than remedied." by Thomas Jefferson,1810 (edited)
Jeff in Kentucky is offline  
post #56 of 56 (permalink) Old 12-20-2015, 09:00 AM
Intermediate Member
 
GR rider's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Thessaloniki, Greece
Posts: 1,885
           
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff in Kentucky View Post

The middle range is the range to get through as quickly as you can - don't idle an engine to warm it, use it.

When you do an oil change (with filter), you only change around 85% of the oil because about 15% is stuck in the engine”
I agree with both statements, the idling / auto choke revving warm up was deemed unnecessary after extensive testing before and during the early catalytic converter era (it was also causing damage to the catalyst).

I also believe that it is near impossible to get rid of the old oil simply by let it drain which is a good thing as oil should stick in order to protect better. I expected a percentage around 5% though.
GR rider is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the KawiForums - Kawasaki Motorcycle Forums forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome