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Gary,

From what I can see in the service manual, all 2003 ZX-6R and ZX-6RR bikes have three vents on the fuel tank.

Also, you have the vents labeled wrong. Looking at picture 14, the right most vent is the water drain for the fuel cap. It is marked with a blue dot. The center vent is the fuel return hose (from the seperator) and is marked with a red dot. The the left most vent is the fuel breather.

What you have done with the vents is fine, but I thought it would be good to get their functions described correctly.

Scott
 

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After receiving plenty of emails and reading all the posts here which ask how to remove the KLEEN system on the '03 models, I put together instructions on my picture hosting site:
http://public.fotki.com/garymilcheck/motorcycles/zx-6r/mods/
...just click on the KLEEN Mod folder, click on the first picture to get a larger pic and click on the pictures to cycle through. Descriptions are listed under each of the larger pictures.

My bike is a CA model, so this also shows how to remove the emissions canister. Also, the modification shown connects the crankcase breather to the KLEEN Exhaust Air Valves which will produce a vacuum in the crankcase. Although I have yet to confirm this, I have been told by several tuners and racers that doing this will pick up a few hp in the higer rpm's. If anyone only wants to remove the CA emissions parts, I can help if anyone has questions.

If it's difficult to navigate or if some can't see the pictures on my site, let me know and I'll copy it all here in a post.

Gary M
www.bmgracing.com
CCS SW AM #28
'03 Kawi ZX636R
'00 Duc 748R
 

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Why not stop by Murray's and invest in a crankcase breather filter instead of using a bunch of Tygon?

Curious in Michigan...

Chaos, panic, disorder......

my work here is done
 

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Venting to the atmosphere with a breather filter won't put a vacuum on the crankcase. To help smack oil from the mist, I would like to find an in-line oil separator to add to the line from the crankcase filter.

Gary M
www.bmgracing.com
CCS SW AM #28
'03 Kawi ZX636R
'00 Duc 748R
 

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I had some time to scan the dyno results this weekend and here's what we got:
106.8 hp, Baseline, before the mod (KLEEN system installed):


After the mod showing 2 cases,
110.8 hp, KLEEN valves connected to crankcase, creating a vacuum (Blue line)
110.1 hp, crankcase vented to atmosphere, no crankcase vacuum added (Red line)


I'm unsure where all of the additional 3-4 hp came from, but the bike is definitely making more power now. Although big gains weren't realized, connecting the KLEEN system to the crankcase isn't hurting the power.

BTW, these dyno runs are shown as STD power because the first dyno run was printed with STD hp. For the second set of dyno runs, SAE power results were 108.9 hp with vacuum and 108.2 hp vented to the atmosphere. Not to shabby considering it's a stock engine running 91 alcohol laced pump gas. Here's a link to that printout:
http://images2.fotki.com/v23/photos/4/41945/233105/kleen_dyno1-vi.jpg



Gary M
www.bmgracing.com
CCS SW AM #28
'03 Kawi ZX636R
'00 Duc 748R
 

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I want to thank Gary again for taking the time to document the Kleen removal process for our racebikes only! :D
I will be doing this mod next week!
THANKS
 

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I was just wondering if this mod is mainly oriented to the CA riders, or can everyone see gains from doing this? thanks

-Chris
 

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Anybody who has done this measured the crankcase vacuum? I have done a bit of research into this and found that it is detriental to your engine to have too much vacuum. reducing the presure in a wet sump engine also reduces the oil pumps ability to pick up oil, it also reduces, or eliminates oil mist from the crankcase which is what lubricates your wrist pins. Most engine builders recommend that if you are going to do this on a wet sump engine you should have a vacuum relief valve set to no more than 15 inches mercury. They say that there is a potential 3 hp gain for a 500cc engine by theoretical calculation of air volume moved, but at the cost of engine life. Check out this debate it is on of many interesting thing I found searching cranckcase vacuum http://www.eurospares.com/sucker.htm.

I am still going to try to get it to work but I am going to try to put a vacuum relief valve into a T in the vent tube.
 

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Sully, thanks for posting that thread. I lost it and wanted to find it again. I haven't measured the vacuum yet and plan to, maybe I get around to it this weekend. I have read a few reports of guys doing this on big Gixxers and ZX-12's and the highest reading I've seen is 9 in vacuum. I seriously doubt that the little 636 can pull more, but I will check into it. Also, those reports of uncovering the oil pickup are usually associated with car sumps, which aren't very deep. This should not be an issue on our bikes and whatever pressure is lost above the pump is gained by sucking oil through all the passages and bearings on the other end. The best explanation I've heard of the Crankcase oil problem due to vacuum was related to the vacuum scavenging the oil from the cylinder walls, but that takes some serious vacuum.

Gary M
www.bmgracing.com
CCS SW AM #28
'03 Kawi ZX636R
'00 Duc 748R
 

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What I was thinking about was the pumps ability to draw oil. It is atmosheric pressure that pushes the oil up the pickup tube as the pump creates a vacuum. For example when we pump water the maximum draft height is relative to atmospheric pressure and how far it can push the water up the suction pipe, or the flow of water is relative to the weight of the air pushing it into the suction pipe.
 

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Gary

Do you have easy acces to a dyno? If you do it would be great for everyone if you could do some back to back testing so we get a better idea of the results. I mean if you could do a dyno run with the setup you have and then one the same day with the kleen system in place it would tell everyone if the mod really works or if the gains are coming from elsewhere.

Jim
 

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Ok...has anyone done this yet and if so.........did you follow the instructions to a tee?? Please let me know...I'm interested in trying it...thanks.
 

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Yep, done it and everything seems to work well, albeit I don't have any emperical data to support these claims. I've done similar work to every road-bike I've owned, the only difference being that each bike would seem like it was burning oil - for obvious reasons - other than that, DO IT UP!
 

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Yep, I used Tygon, albeit I didn't see the justification of using so many different elbows and whatnot. I simply ran a line of the 3/8 hose all the way from the crankcase breather to a 3/8 - 1/2 adaptor which ran directly into the three-way connection between the two air intakes on the valve cover.
 

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Ok...I'm gonna try this either tonight or tomorrow...wish me luck...and here goes a doofy question....but what's the best way to disconnect the gas line? I'm a newbie to this under the gas tank stuff :)
 
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