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Discussion Starter #1
To do this you will NEED A SPANNER CLUTCH TOOL!!! I have tried without one and broke my clutch basket which is $300 the tool is only like $30 so buy one or borrow one. If you have been wanting to install an after market shift start now is the time. I would suggest still having a manual when doing this to reference too. I am not responsible if you pull it apart and mess up or can't put it back together..... sorry. It's really not hard to do but some people can't even change plugs so please know your own limits.


1)Pull your fairings off. For stock fairings just the sides and lower should be good.



2)Unbolt your radiator and tie it forward against your front tire so you can reach the header bolts easily and not damage your radiator.



3)Remove your headers and exhaust. You might not have to completely remove everything but you need to make sure none of it is blocking the oil pan from dropping straight down. I had to remove everything but the can under the tail.


4)Drain the oil thru the plug on the oil pan and then pull the clutch cover off of the motor and remover your clutch.



5)This next part is probebly the hardest part. You WILL NEED the clutch tool to do this. I have broken my clutch basket before and they cost $300. Once you have the tool you will need an impact or breaker bar to remove that bolt. Take your time and DO NOT round it off.



6)To be able to remove the clutch basket you have to slide out the inner ring, otherwise it will not pass part of the case on the right. To slide out the inner ring I start to thread a dry wall screw into the hole and pull it out. It might take a few tries but it should slide out pretty easy.



7)Undo your shifter linkage off of the input shaft on the shifter side of the motor. Once it is off you should be able to pull the shifter rod out from the clutch side of the motor. WIth that out of the way you can see the shifting star and the ends of the rods holding your shifting forks. There is a small metal plate that is holding in the shift star/shift drum and the shift forks rod(don't remove the 2 bolts yet). Remove the oil pan from the bottom of the engine before removing any more from this side.



8) I had to lay my bike on it's side to get pics of the transmission from under. There is another rod with gears under the shifting drum you can't see.




9)Ok now remove the 2 hex heads holding in the shift star/shift drum and the shift forks. Slide out the rods and reach under the engine,try and keep a hand under the forks because they will drop out. With the front rod 1 fork will drop and with the rear rod 2 forks will drop out. Now inspect them.



Normal wear






My quick shifter killed the fork on the left. You can see it is shaved down really bad.






Install goes pretty easy just reverse it all and follow manual for all torque specs. I don't put in new gaskets everytime because my motor is taken apart too much. I clean the old one and all surfaces and use gasket maker from the parts store. It took me about 2 hours with taking pics to drop the forks out. To change out gears you will have to remove your WHOLE motor and split your case but with the shift drum and the shift forks out you can easily inspect all your gears for damage and see if they need to be replaced.
 

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Shift forks looked like they did on my ZRX. Problem is they get bent and start rubbing. The bent is ever so slight, but it reaks havoc with the gears staying in place. Good job on the pics. That one is a keeper. Spooner, where'd ya get the cheap rear set brackets??:Infrandom::lol: I have a set too....:D
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think every year before the 07 you have to split the case to change the gears. The gears don't always get messed up but my popping in and out did wear on the dogs for the gears. The teeth on the gears were fine though.
 

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What do you mean by the dogs for the gears? so if i do have to change gears out do i have to take the engine apart to get case out? i know the engine and trany have to come out but when iam looking at the case it looks like i have to take the engine apart!
 

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Very nice write up Spooner427. Thank you for taking the time do take the pics along the way,although I hope that I don't need to replace the shift forks any time soon in my RR.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What do you mean by the dogs for the gears? so if i do have to change gears out do i have to take the engine apart to get case out? i know the engine and trany have to come out but when iam looking at the case it looks like i have to take the engine apart!

I am pretty sure I am using the correct terms but the gears have teeth and dogs. The teeth are like the normal teeth on a sprocket but the dogs extend off the side of the gear and interlock 2 gears on the same shaft together. If you have to change gears you will need to pull the whole motor out of the bike. Flip the motor over and split the case. It is alot of work. I did it last year in this bike during the winter.

**Micron05rr**
Thanks for the props
 

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Thanks for the help. I'm gonna start getting the bike prepped for it.

This sucks b/c I don't know if my second gear needs to be replaced and I'd much rather just check out the forks and drum and replace them if needed :(
 

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I decided I'm gonna do the whole kit and kibbootle. A bud of mine is gonna help walk me through most of it but I'm gonna drop the motor and all. Wish me luck.

So far tonight I've taken off the headers and back, drained oil, drained radiator and disconnected all the rad. hoses. . .
 

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I don't exactly understand how the Factory pro shift star would help with reducing wear on the shift forks as so many suggest it would help prevent the whole 2nd gear tranny issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
This sucks b/c I don't know if my second gear needs to be replaced and I'd much rather just check out the forks and drum and replace them if needed :(
You can check your gears when you have your forks and drum dropped out of the bottom. I think in most cases just changing the forks (and shift drum if it looks really worn) will fix most problems.

have u ran it since u got it together? i hope it doesnt continue to pop out of gear....due to worn dogs.
It is fine on the street but I hit open track this Friday and then race on Sunday so that will be the deciding factor.

I decided I'm gonna do the whole kit and kibbootle. A bud of mine is gonna help walk me through most of it but I'm gonna drop the motor and all. Wish me luck.
It's not that bad. I dropped the motor, splitt the case and changed outmy gears last winter. It seems really scary but then your like ..... that's it??
When you get down to your shift forks and pull them out mark one brake side and one shifter side for the two that are on the same rod because you are gonna have to snap some pics because I want to see how they look.

I don't exactly understand how the Factory pro shift star would help with reducing wear on the shift forks as so many suggest it would help prevent the whole 2nd gear tranny issues.
I don't think they should be put in to fix trans issues. You should figure out what is wrong with the trans and fix the problem first. Otherwise it's still there and will show up again in the future.

**Important**
Now for the interesting part. There are 3 forks in the trans: one little one and two slightly bigger. When I looked at the new bigger two they had different numbers on the side saying they came from different modling casts. One had a 5 and one had a 6. The 6 looked perfect but the 5 had been ground down by a person to smooth the edges and fix the poor cast that came out of the mold. So I am thinking that people with trans trouble "that don't abuse their bikes" could possibly have a shift fork that a person had cleaned up and possibly took too much off one side or the other(Don't run to your dealer and state this as FACT and demand for it to be fixed). I put the crappy looking one in my high gears and the nice one in my low gears so hopefully I can tell if it causes any problems.
 
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