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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey guys, im havin a problem with my bike, it wont run after i hit the red line in second gear and hit 110mph. a couple guys that know motorcycle engines a hell of a lot better than me say that my valves could either stuck, not seating all the way, or i could have a broken valve. i'm curious just how hard of a fix this is and if i have kawasaki do it for me how much (roughly) would they charge? any help at all and any ideas would be great. thanks guys!
 

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I would not have a Kawi dealer do anything. My experience is they just do not open motors up that often, so you most likely not get the quality you want. I would have someone that builds motors for the racers in your area. I have torn down several motors years ago and just frankly have no desire to do it again. Something I now definitely pay for. Frankly, if you have to ask you should not open one up. Not a small undertaking. I have had motors slapped together for ~$500 a few times. Motors done right have cost me a few grand including critical machining, but those were race motors with lots of work.

Tell us where you live and maybe someone on here knows a good builder in your area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I live in Minot, North Dakota. I'm not really looking to have the whole engine rebuilt. I just want the damn thing running again. It's got roughly 19k for miles and as far as the last valve job, i have no clue. I bought it from a salvage auction over the winter and been restoring it with some custom work. It was running when i bought it and ran great up till a few days ago. there was no muffler on the bike since the one that was there got trashed in the accident the bike was in and i've been told that not have the back pressure couldve been out the valves. any ideas what to do here?
 

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What exactly does the bike do now?

What exactly did the bike do when you hit redline at 110 mph in 2nd gear?

It would seem (depending on the answers to these questions) you may be best off to buy a cylinder leakage tester and an oem service manual and check leakage on each cylinder before decing a course of action---you likely would spend about $100 and a couple hours of your time to find out vs taking to a delaer or independent shop and paying atleast that for them to tell you...................who knows-it is junk, it burnt the valves, it'll cost you $2000 for them to fix, or whatthefuckever they are going to say or find....the reality is if it is anything more than about $500 to repair you may be better off finding a "good" running used engine and then just swap engines-then in your free time take the other one (current engine) and learn how it works and how to do some of the maintenance.

If you would rather pay someone else (and I understand many would, so not knocking those that don't do there own work) then talk to your friends and riding buddies or a local form or whatever and find someplace that has a good reputation and good references, then expect to wait awhile to get it back. I know I am still booked til into August and I suspect any of the shops worth going to- are as well.
 

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If you can't find anyone local or timely----I am only 500 miles away....lol, I would find a way to squeeze you in for some while you wait customer care-then you could decide to leave it or take it back home with you
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
after i hit the redline (12,500rpm) i let off the throttle and shifted up to 4th and brought it down to 65mph. then about the time i hit the 55mph speed zone only 1/2 later it started to cut out and after only a few second seconds it shut off. i had to coast it the next 1/2 mile to where i work. simply would not start after that. it turns over and once in a while will fire but not enough to run. after work that day i drained the carbs and jump started the bike since i killed it trying to start it and it fired up and ran for about 20 minutes then suddenly died again while sitting at idle. since then i cant get it to fire... so basically it turns over just fine but doesnt fire. idk know if its spark(electrical), compression, plugs, floats, or the valves. my manager who's built a number of HD engines said (when listening to the bike try to start) it sounds like the valves are burned or stuck...
 

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Oh dear. I'm going to guess that your bike needs a valve adjustment. I'm not entirely sure which engine you have, but I have the 750 Zephyr engine 2001 in my ZR-7S. At 20K the valves were starting to mash into their seat. My engine has these pain in the ass bucket valve things. It was worth every penny to pay someone else to do it.

Kawasaki ZR-7 - Valve Adjustment
Kawasaki ZR-7 - Valve Adjustment Tips

If you bent a valve or roached the seat a compression test would tell you that.
 

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I would say valve adjustment is needed. Not to difficult to do yourself. As long as you do plenty of reading and such to familiarize yourself with the process. Also getting a service manual helps. I myself need one too.:D

BUT...

You are saying that it has no muffler and you have been running it that way. Yikes, could have bent or burnt a valve.:eek: Did you happen to run it when it was cold outside??

A shim kit is about $100 and I dont know what a manual cost but surely will be less then a shop is going to charge for the job..

If you have any mechanical skills with cars then the bike should be a breeze.:D

research, research and some more research.

I have a spare 96 ZX7R head that needs shim kit. If you need it let me know. You can have it pretty cheap.

My bike was an electrical nightmare and I couldnt get it to start after riding. It was a combo of bad alt connection and the battery not charging, and 3 other bad connections.

resistance equals heat which equals more resistance, etc etc

Goodluck
 

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valve test...
start bike ( if possible

grab stiff piece of paper.

hold 1" away from echaust outlet.

observe motion of paper. if it gets pulled towards the pipe, the exhaust valves are leaking. if it gets blown away constantly, move to leakdown and a dry and wet comp test to verify motor health.

i still say fuel pump based off of the bold shit.

after i hit the redline (12,500rpm) i let off the throttle and shifted up to 4th and brought it down to 65mph. then about the time i hit the 55mph speed zone only 1/2 later it started to cut out and after only a few second seconds it shut off. i had to coast it the next 1/2 mile to where i work. simply would not start after that. it turns over and once in a while will fire but not enough to run. after work that day i drained the carbs and jump started the bike since i killed it trying to start it and it fired up and ran for about 20 minutes then suddenly died again while sitting at idle. since then i cant get it to fire... so basically it turns over just fine but doesnt fire. idk know if its spark(electrical), compression, plugs, floats, or the valves. my manager who's built a number of HD engines said (when listening to the bike try to start) it sounds like the valves are burned or stuck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
got talking to a few people in town that know more about these engines than me... i'm gunna end up pulling the head of and see how bad it is and have it dealt with for me... but first need to check my ignition system to see if i'm even getting spark and need to check the carbs...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
me and another guy had it running at work for only a couple minutes after draining the carbs. while it was running if you put your hand over the end of the pipe, you could feel it pulling your hand...
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
:) yeah thats kinda what i was thinkin. not really up for tearing it all apart but at the same time im pretty sure my valves might need to be re-shimmed
 

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me and another guy had it running at work for only a couple minutes after draining the carbs. while it was running if you put your hand over the end of the pipe, you could feel it pulling your hand...
BUT.. your hand is not a piece of stiff paper... ;)

i work on this shit for a living homey. i wouldn't lie to ya.

HENDRIX

where is the fuel pump???
frame crossrail directly in front of the rear shock under the rider seat. it'll be off to the throttle side of the bike. you should be able to see it looking under the bike at the subframe. the large hole that is in the frame juuuust between the right peg mount and the bottom subframe bolt.. you should be able to see the plastic end of the pump in there.

fueling issues will cause shit to occur that seem like valve issues. have an R1 in the shop now that after a sync it lean backfired like a motherfucker. remove carbs and the pilot jet and some passages were clogged. a few people thought the valves were out on the thing..
 

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160 new from kawi.
might be able to find a better cheaper one.
hit up supradrew. hes got like.. some sorta autozone pump. mr. gasket pump or somethin. makes 4psi. pump pressure is 1.6-2.3psi stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
hey, just put the muffler on and had to hook up my jump pack but it fired up. i cant get it to rev past 5000rpm but with the muffler on, it doesnt' seem to be sucking much
 
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