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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys new to the board trying to fix this 2002 zx-7r I may be buying, 10k miles

The bike sat for a year and a half so I cleaned the carbs, new plugs and gas, started up and ran great (wasn't road legal so I would start it every few days and let it idle/rev it up) until I let it sit now for about 4-5 weeks without starting

at first it didn't want to start, I think I flooded it as pretty bad as gas was pouring down the left side of the engine onto the ground and also leaking above the leftmost exhaust header onto the header itself

anyway I got it started up by turning off the gas and choking it, holding the throttle open but after like 30 seconds it sounds like it's not running on all cylinders/backfiring and will stall (gas is OFF for this)

If I turn the gas to on or reserve the bike immediately wants to die and gas begins pouring down the left side of the engine and onto the hot exhaust header! :eek:

man I don't know what's up i'm just looking for some ideas from you guys on where to start before I go ripping it apart again

I also thought it had a charging system problem: 12.1 volts at 1500 rpm, but it does indeed get up to 14.4v at 6,000rpm so I guess this is normal?

The fact the bike is leaking gas from above the exhaust header has me worried, the airbox couldn't fill up with gas that quickly right?:confused: I can't remember if there were any gas lines that ran towards there, maybe a vacuum issue?

If I leave the gas ON or on RESERVE with the bike off there's no gas leak at all.


any insight is appreciated, thanks
 

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Powerhungry
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the fuel valve may be bad.

its a vac operated one..isnt it?

pull the vac line that goes from the carb, to the valve.
any fuel there?

double check that all the lines are hooked up too.

AND if it got flooded...the plugs might be fouled already...it happens pretty fast with raw fuel.
 

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stuck float(s).. no vac fuel valve on these bikes..

check float level.. 10K miles shouldn't pose any wear on the needle seat (the rubber part) but it could be.. ya never know

and yup. thats spec on the electrical 14.4V/30.7A at 6krpm.

al;so, make sure that if its a cali model or has any evap stuff on it, that it's all intact.. if its not, try to find exactly where the fuels coming from. if it's pouring into the airbox from the circuit ways in the carb throats, then i'd bet my mom that you have a stuck float or 3..

doubt its a fuel pump issue, to where its pumping too much.. unless the relay is crap and the scitching transistor shorted and just pumps gas all the time into the bowls.

the pump is run off the #1/4 coil channel, so it only pulses fuel to the carbs when cylinders 1 and 4 fire.

check some lines and get back with us bro..
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well I took the tank and airbox off to check out all the lines, nothing was disconnected or broken, could see that the airbox had a lot of gasoline in it but was dried up now

took the carbs off and cleaned up the bowls and found that the float bowl valve was messed up on each carb

turns out the little spring loaded pintle on each float valve was stuck out so it wouldn't compress meaning when the gas got too high in the bowl it wasn't using the added pressure of the pintle to seal off the gas flow into the carb.


as circled in this picture is the little spring loaded pintle i'm talking about on the float valve:





if it happens again i'll just buy new float valves, but for now I got them unseized and the bike starts right up and runs great again, thanks for the help :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well it's back to running like crap again

Anyone know of a place where I can get new float valves for cheap? I've yet to find them for less than $57 a piece and I need 4 of them

pricey!
 

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Another solution to that problem is just go and get a bottle of STP carb cleaner (pour in kind), read the directions and pour that liquid goodness into the fuel tank then let her rip. I had similar problems when i got my bike. The STP cleared it up and I use it everytime I bring my bike up after storing it. Still have the original needle valves after all these years and they still work great.
 

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Sounds like parts and passageways are still varnished up. when you say you "cleaned the carbs"....did you remove all the jets, choke valves and float valves, needles and spray down every passageway..? I clean the passages out sprayign backwards down them....followed by shop air.

I bought a small ultrasonic cleaner (Sonix) for this stuff....all the varnish and grime that makes you throw jets away comes right off....I never believed it worked till I got one. my $65 investment in a used one probably saved me $200 in brass.

You can get a set of used carbs for around $100-150...so I wouldn't pump too much money into new parts. And online ordering from Roy Ayers or OEMcycle will save some money too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
yes carbs were completely disassembled and every passageway was cleaned out but the little "pintle" on the float valves some of them were seized others didn't work too well so the float didn't go to the right level.

the carbs themselves weren't even that dirty on the first initial clean, main jet had a little grime around it, float bowls were clean, etc.

I've found a carb "rebuild" kit on bikebarn.com which includes the float needle and gasket for $23 each so that's a lot better than $57 each.

I may stop by napa but I'd like to get OEM parts as i've already taken the carbs apart twice already, not looking to do it again that's for sure
 

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floats sticking is exactly right. if the evap controls are on it, then the fuel was comming from that- if youve done the float bowl vent mod-fuel fill flood through the vent line or flood the cylinders if you dont see the fuel running out right away...mine was the same problem.

you can save some money if the rubber is still good-the problem is that the side of the seats still have corrosion on them, you can sand/ polish them with some 1000-1500grit sand paper..worked like a charm on mine- i think i threw the level adjustment off a little, so becareful not to bend the tabs.

also have you coated the tank? chances are, after a year of sitting, theres still rust and junk in a crevace somewhere-obviously this will keep causing carb problems...especially if the fuel doesnt move from the carbs in 4-5weeks at a time (ive been fighting my tank for more than a month now, pressure washed, solvent, even soaked it in a parts wash for a day and pressure washed it again...my fuel has a weird color to it, so just saying it might be worth the money to creme it)
 
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