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Discussion Starter #1
I've been using Yuasa batteries for my last 2 MCs for many years. I had a Yuasa YTX20HL-BS Battery in my 2002 Concours since Sept 2008. I use Yuasa Smart Shot 12V 1.5 Amp Battery Charger for the last 6 + years, and, mine has worked great. I went out 2 weeks ago to take the MC for a ride to work, and I got the bike to turn over twice and then it quit. Nothing, no click, no lights, no dash lights, just completely dead. The following week I had time to check the battery. It was @ 8.3 VDC. I put the battery on the charger, and it took several hr.s to get to full charge (the Yuasa charger shows a green light when fully charged). After I pulled the charger off, I put a voltmeter on the battery, and it showed it was dropping voltage rapidly right off. I did some checking online @ the Yuasa web site, and it says that a fully charged battery should read 12.60-12.80 VDC. (well, that's with sulfate stop...)
Since the old one was dropping off below 12.6 after it reached full charge, I figured after 5 yr.s, 9 months it was time for a new one. I purchased another Yuasa YTX20HL-BS, same as before since it had worked well. I followed the directions to the letter filling the maintenance free battery. Mostly it involves waiting to let it fill, then waiting a full 1 hr to allow the AGM plates to fully saturate. On the battery it says it's a 18.9Ah (20 HR) battery. Reading on top of the battery, it says you could apply a 9 amp charge for 1.5 hr.s. I had a Schumacher 2a/10a/50a automotive charger. Since the Yuasa 1.5 Amp charger would take awhile and the battery said it could take a charge of 9amp @ 1.5 hrs, I used the 10amp for 45 min.s. I came back @ 40 min.s or so and the battery showed on the charger to be at zero amps, fully charged. It wasn't hot, and showed 12.65 VDC across the terminal. I put it in the MC, and put the other Yuasa automatic charger on just to check to see if it showed it was fully charged. I left it on for an hr, and it never showed the green light...

The voltage reads 13.4 or 13.5 just after the charger is pulled off, and then drops 12.65-12.75 VDC but doesn't go any lower. My notes from 2008 showed the last Yuasa YTX20HL-BS topped off @ 13.2 after the charge.

My question is; did something happen to the battery using the 10 amp charge from the Automotive charger that now affects the battery so it wouldn't take a full charge from the Yuasa 1.5 amp charger?

Any opinions, thoughts would be appreciated. I'm figuring as long as the MC battery doesn't fall below 12.6 after it's been sitting, then it should be ok. It's just that I usually go out every week, and put the Yuasa automatic battery charger on it once a week until the charger shows the green light. I've been gone for a week, and I checked the battery once I got home from my trip, and it was 12.7 VDC. I put the Yuasa charger on it, and left for 2 hr.s. I came back and the charger was warm, (not hot) but no green light. I took the charger off, and VDC drained off from around 13.2 or so, to around 12.7 pretty quick, but didn't drop below that. I'm going to leave the charge on all night and see if it ever goes green. I keep thinking I should not have used the 10 amp charge for the 45 min.s, as maybe it was too much.

Any idea, and/or thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks
Cool Breeze:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Back with news on the Yuasa Battery question; I suppose this is more a diary entry, but... I found my ACC fuse blown (10Amp). It only powers the clock, and two sets of ACC leads ~ one front and one rear under the seat. My clock had stopped working several years ago, but would work while the bike was running. I didn't really think it was a fuse, but I never bothered to even look since it worked when the bike was running. How does this have anything to do with the new Yuasa Maintenance Free battery not charging with the Yuasa 1.5 amp charger? I have no idea. It shouldn't matter at all, and I would think it would stop the small voltage drain on the battery for the clock.

I went down and tried the charger on the old battery to see if it would charge, and the green light on the charger would come on. Worked great, took a about 1 hr to charge the old battery (still VDC drops off below 12.6 VDC within no time at all, so I think that battery gone) , but the charger's "All Charged" green light came on. After another 2-3 hr set of trying to get the new battery to fully charge and the light to illuminate, it did! This was after I had replaced the fuse on the ACC junction box/fuse panel. Go figure. I will go down and check it again, as it's been several days again since I charged it, and I'm curious to see what the VDC will be.

I consider this issue closed if the battery is Ok or will take a full charge again. Who knows... :rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I found out that the relays in the ZG1000 are a weak link in the starting circuit. I pulled the fuse panel/Junction box. I sent them off to Buck Sport Touring.com in FL and he replaced the 3 relays with new, HD ones. Installed same, and haven't had a single problem since. It took just a little over a week and 1/2 for the turnaround. Great price, half of what a new J-box would cost. Thanks Buck :) Great service, great job
 
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